Life’s a gamble, meet Adam Kimmel

Adam Kimmel is an New York based designer, who put up a distracting presentation yesterday. Kimmels collection was an ode to the style and tastes of the painter George Condo. The blazers, vests and capes with roulette prints had a plush, jaded, man-about-town feel. The presentation, in a gallery with gaming tables and low lights  – the gamblers (models wearing molded heads with twisted and ghastly expressions and clown-like ears and hair) were as real as anything else. The heads, based on Condo’s paintings,  did dominate the scene, but most of the clothes will look just fine without them.

Streetfashion Paris fw2010

What are you wearing during the Menswear Fashionweek? Your Burberry-boots, your latest D&G-vest or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion-weeks we refresh our streetwear-category regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris.

Pictures by Muriel Schouten

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Jean Paul Gaultier

The Jean Paul Gaultier fashion show opened with two girls fighting against each other in a boxing ring that stood in the centre of the stage. Then beaten up models in JPG designs and boxing accessories came on stage. They wore face protection, boxing gloves, belts with the JPG logo and carried towels around their necks. They had bleeding noses and band-aids all over their faces, as if they had just been beaten up.

JPG’s designs varied from sporty to chique. We could see lots of leather:  belts, pants, jackets and  details. Some knitwear (long scarfs and warm sweaters) was introduced as well. Sporty hoodies in several different shades were worn underneath the models’ neat coats and jackets.

On his T-shirts JPG had printed pictures of muscular male torso’s. And with a few skirts and some sparkling tops the French designer showed his feminine side.

Singer Chris Brown, familiar with beating up, attended the JPG show.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Viktor & Rolf Monsieur

It was the first time since Viktor & Rolf introduced their menswear-collection Monsieur in 2003 that the Dutch duo held a show in Paris. It was a small, intimate show with music of one single guitarplayer and totally different from their big womenswear-presentations.

The Monsieur-collection lies close to what the designers like themselves, a mix of streetwear and tailored suits with a touch of the unexpected. For next fall Viktor & Rolf unveiled a refined collection in a dark (mostly black) color palette mixing formal and casual, ranging from quilting and trousers with elasticated cuffs and a focus at the dinner jacket.  Splashes of black paint were on the floor but also at trousers, a models’ face and in silver on a T-shirt.The unexpected lies in the layering and mix of different textures and fabrics. Of course the collection has all the ingredients of next fall: the large, comfy cardigan, the suit, the knits, the boots, the grays and the blacks.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: D&G

The D&G fall-collection is the answer to what the well-dressed snowboarder will be wearing, in the snow or at the after-ski. Thick Fair Isle sweater-coats, trapper hats, chunky turtlenecks, shimmery ski pants, shearlings and bombers—all luxe and made to be layered. Mixed with gray flannel suits, a velvet blazer or even a black tie  and the Olympics can begin.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: D Squared & Tokio Hotel

Since DSquared is designing the clothes for their coming tour lead-singer Bill Kaulitz of Tokio Hotel had the honor to open their menswear-show in Milan. His extravagant outfit had nothing to do with the theme of the show – Hockey Horror – but he made an impressive entrance and survived his stroll along the catwalk like a pro. The theme of the show had everything to do with hockey, THE national game in Canada,  and  everything that comes with it, the bloody fights included. Some clothes reminded of hockey-outfits, from the wide shorts to the big shirts. Fabrics were shiny and glitzy like ice, black was the main color. Of course everything was mixed the wrong way on purpose, but we already know that trick.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Alexander McQueen

The Alexander McQueen-collection for fall 2010 was an entirely printed collection—of suits, leather coats, ski masks, even shoes. Some of the prints were on the dark side (like a pile of human skulls and bones), some simply puzzling (smeared paint, fur, knits, drops of rain). The silhouet was pretty stiff and straight, with ski-like trousers, shorter jackets and 3/4 coats sometimes half patent/half wool.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Versace

Alexandre Plokhov, design director for Versace menswear, took the new movie ‘Tron Legacy’ as inspiration for his fall-collection. The result was a vision of a futuristic world, but also back to Gianni Versace’s days of hard-edged metal mesh. This was agood show, sharp as a laser beam and glossy. Plokhov modernized Gianni’s original ideas, giving the black leather a bursting-bubble decoration and weaving metal mesh into vests or as shoulder pieces. The neon-patterns on shirts looked like tie-dye leaking, but were all digital.  These were often mixed with sleek suits in cyber blue.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Dirk Bikkembergs

Not only people from the fashion industry could attend Dirk Bikkembergs Sports Couture show this year; tickets to the show were also sold to any fashion lover who wanted to pay for it. The money that was raised by this, would go to charity.

After a countdown,  tough-looking muscular men appeared on the catwalk to the beat of our favorite Michael Jackson songs.

The Bikkembergs collection was inspired by the world of mountaineering, so the models were dressed in a way they could resist extreme weather conditions. They wore knitted sweaters and were wrapped in cashmere and mohair. Most of them had caps on their heads and wore thick gloves. They walked the runway on flip flops with thick socks in it and high boots with colored laces.

While his pants were nothing special, Dirk showed some good jackets. We loved a white trenchcoat and a black & white dinner jacket. Many jackets had fur collars and shoulders with leather accents.

Underneath these jackets some models wore a T-shirt with the image of an ice-bear, that vaguely resembled the popular Christopher Kane gorilla T-shirts.

At the end of the show a happy Dirk Bikkembergs waved to the audience. Although we thought his collection was pretty safe and predictable, at least he was having a blast.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: John Varvatos

An impression of the stage at John Varvatos: an old church with scattered fresco’s and candlelight in the back. A perfect setting for the collection: rockers turned into businessmen but still sticking to black, their boots, leather and bulky knits.

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