Tory Burch Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

 

It was Tory Burch’s first catwalkshow in more than seven years and she just opened a new flagship store in New York. Sales are doing well, so there were some reasons to be cheerful. For spring, Burch chose the twenties-era Deauville as her inspiration. The result was a good collection, refined, smart and neat and Burch didn’t fell in the trap of just copying that style. She used her own print, silhouette and colors. Her take on the iconic sailor stripe for example was changed into waves. And the dots were actually tiny little squares.

Vera Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

 

Vera Wang tried a different path with her ss2012 collection. More psychedelic colors and prints, different shapes and volumes, new colors. But the result was too much fairytale and less reality. Tiny little vests with detachable volants in cotton and oversize eyelet. Skirts made from sheer parachute silk that grazed the thighs in the front and trailed weightless in the back. Gowns with diamond-shape cutouts on the chest. Gauzy leggings. The effect looked a bit forced.

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

That was a beautiful, colorful and romantic collection Rodarte sent out yesterday. Part Sleeping Beauty part Vincent van Gogh. The artists’ color palette and paintings with sunflowers, cherryblossoms and starry night inspired the Rodarte sisters. They explained to the press that they fell for the greens and purples of the 1959 animated Disney classic Sleeping Beauty, and asked themselves who else uses colors like that. They found their answer in the Dutch postimpressionist painter. It was all the more unexpected for the fact that those Van Gogh prints can turn out into something kitchy.

The Mulleavy sisters have flirted with kitsch before, but here the effect was often hypnotic. The clothes were a mesmerizing concoction of color, construction and fantastical gowns. No matter how voluminous or seemingly simple, every look was boned for precise fit and structure.

Van Gogh’s colors are powerful, and not just his purples and greens, but also the blues and yellows. But the fifties prom dress silhouettes—nipped at the waist, with focus at the shoulders and the flaring hems—seemed so resolutely in the past. Young women might like it and wear it, but will grown up women pay more than 4000 for a dress like that? Yet there was also plenty of downright approachable designs — tapered, cropped, pants; tiered georgette skirts and fantastic color-blocked hand-knit cable sweaters.

Oscar de la Renta Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

A star studded front row (with Justin Timberlake, Ashley Olsen, Valentino and Nicki Minaj) enjoyed a remarkable fresh spring collection at Oscar de la Renta’s 42^nd Street showroom. Frizzy haired models sported De la Renta’s beautifully handcrafted design, which felt younger than we’ve seen before in his over forty years in fashion.

Extravagant ball gowns were mixed with tiny couture lace T-shirts, the cutest spring dresses were worn with wide belts and loose pants were perfectly matched with elegant short jackets.

A black tight dress with dozens of white tassels seemed perfect for a night out, a yellow ball gown with puffy sleeves looked like it belonged in a fairytale.

The color palette ranging from yellow to grass green, nudes, pink and red felt perfect for spring. The models looked natural and confident. The overall vibe was easy-going, wearable, ladylike and fresh.

It was a collection that might have some younger girls hitting the stores for their own piece of ODLR. And for the loyal ODLR- customers, there will be lots of great designs to choose from as well.

Carolina Herrera Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

 

This spring 2012 collection of Carolina Herrera was the designer at her most chic, in the spirit of Bauhaus (again, see Marc by Marc Jacobs) and in control. Interesting parts were the lines, blocks of stripes in yellow, green and black, embroideries and appliques in geometric patterns.

The collection consisted of those typical Herrera items: bow blouses, shirt-dresses and evening gowns. But there was also a little sportswear in graphic knits, short jackets and pants cuffed above the ankle.

 

 

First View New York SS2012: Digital Flowers

Make way for flowers! Digital printing finally get’s the stage it deserves. The silk printed iconic patterns once produced by Alexander McQueen and Mary Katranzou clearly left their trace. It’s sure one loves a touch of authenticity even when executed in one of the most advanced printing techniques. Designers went for water colour paintings, expressionist artistry, poetic and nostalgic bouquets among 70s pop florals and wild abstracts.  But there is also a less orthodox offering. Twisted versions that are blurred, cut and pasted, all adorning a rich variety of styles. In this stylespot we lined up bold 70s florals from DKNY, blurred water paints of Prabal Gurung, cut and pasted vibrancy of Altuzarra, sheer/opaque coordinates of Jason Wu and a brave shaded bicolor etching of Richard Chai.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.

 

Streetfashion New York Womenswear ss2012 Day 4

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-boots, your latest Celine-dress or that vintage Chanel? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York  Fashion Week.

 

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

For coming spring Donna Karan’s collection is all about tribal. She brought together a beautiful color palette of earthy tones, vivid prints, wearable feminine pieces and statement tribal jewelery. All slightly inspired by Haiti, which she visited last year.

But as strong as the theme of the collection was, the designs were still very Donna Karan. The one shoulder dresses, the tunics, the loose skirts, the sporty details and the cutouts; all perfect for Karan’s American woman.

There was enough variety to get dressed for any kind of situation. A cool bathing suit for the beach, a figure-hugging dress to hit the club in, a tunic and pants for a business meeting, a printed dress for a family lunch, a dress + leather jacket for shopping and a column gown to wow everyone at a summer gala. That is, if you’re into tribal of course.

 

First View New York SS2012: Athletic Energy

New York makes a powerful start by taking the fast track. The first sound trend is spotted most clearly at Alexander Wang. Sporty garments with a great deal of sensuality in both styling as well as fabric looks and tactility. Technical to the touch and techno-crafted in the make. We spot shaded digital printing, sharp laser cutting, graphic blocking, vibrant colouring and architectonic shaping with grand physicality. The models of Y3 as well as Altuzarra seem to fly in free-floating featherweight windbreakers. Alexander Wang nears performing active wear referencing sports functionality most literary. Where Lacoste adds its known sporty vibe by use of bold graphics in sporty shades.  A promising start of the season expressing both opportunism as well as optimism.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.

Zac Posen Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

After having showed in Paris for two seasons Zac Posen returned to New York for Fashion Week on Sunday. He presented a collection all of his famous friends will love. His designs seemed fit for a classy business meeting as well as for any kind of award ceremony. And so did the models classic hairdo’s and stately jewelry pieces.

There was no clear theme or thread; it was just a pretty collection of elegant, form fitting dresses in shades like pastel, ruby, emerald and grey.

Posen seemed to have gone a little too far with a revealing off-shoulder, grey V-neck dress, but overall his creations looked great for both young and old.

 

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