Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Skin was the big news at Balenciaga. Designer Nicolas Ghesquière told the press before the show that its was “the most sensual collection I’ve ever done”. It was all about  stiff ruffles, movement, a-symmetric cut and technical fabrics, dense embroideries that looked like tweeds,  lace fused to molded synthetics, and T-shirt knits dipped in glue for stiffness.
Ghesquière set the tone with the first model’s midriff-baring molded bra and high-waisted pants. And from there came out swinging, slitting long black skirts almost to the hipbone and edging them with deep ruffles.  Asymmetric skirts pushed the leg-theme further, and even the pantsuits were paired with  bra tops.

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Please enjoy the pictures for now. Our review will follow shortly.

Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Gareth Pugh held strictly to his linear graphic style for his ss2013 collection, but this time it seemed softer, even more romantic than before. He even threw in scarlet red to change his palet of black, white and gray. Pugh was inspired by cockfighting, which explained the bloodred, the long hems and extended train-like sleeves. Plus the bloodred make-up. He also put in some flamenco-vibe and Japanese details.

Mugler Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

She was not attending the show herself, yet Mugler still had a touch of Gaga as her new rap song ‘Cake’ was the show’s soundtrack. Clothes didn’t feel very Gaga compared to last season’s over the top creations. This time around Nicola Formichetti and Sébastien Peigné opted for simpler pieces, yet that didn’t mean things got dull…

Structured looks followed each other on the runway. Dresses had architectural skirts and graphic shoulders. Pieces were folded, in line with the origami trend we spotted at some many other shows. And the Eastern influences continued in a kimono style gold printed top.

Gorgeous were the creations in which think patent leather and sheer organza were brought together. A burgundy dress with a layered skirt  and a mustard yellow skirt with printed top, all in patent leather, were the true showpieces.

New were the Mugler handbags, which Formichetti himself carried on to the runway as he made his appearance.

For Mugler next summer is all about picking up the trends started this season (burgundy, patent leather, eastern influences, structured shapes) and taking them to a whole new level.

 

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Dries van Noten always follows his own feeling, that makes his collections so real and honest. For ss2013 the Belgian designer mixed everything he loved – mens/womenswear, grunge and spontaneity – in a contemporary collection. He had enough of minimalism and plainness – just at the time nearly every designer is going for minimal elegance. Van Noten took basic pieces and cut them in the plaids and checks of retro street culture, pattern clashing against pattern, sometimes in the same garment. Yet lightness reigned, in both color (muted pastels that held court with earthier tones) and in the constructions of the fabrics.
Like much of the tailoring, the  decorativeness was informed by the designer’s fascination with couture. Skirts were adorned in front with appliqués of rosettes; a sweater got embroidered sleeves; organza ruffles became a wrap.

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

A shimmery bra-and-brief look combined with a pair of wrestling shoes? At Rochas Marco Zanini proved he knows just how to combine quirky and chic. Dressed in beautifully tailored creations made from the finest fabrics his models appeared classy with a sporty touch.

Comfortable polo shirts with shorts and a wide legged pair of pants matched with a muscled mid rif revealing white top looked like tennis court material. Yet done in softly sparkling stretch brocade they were just a little too fancy.

Done in a gorgeous palette of whites, nudes and silver Zanini introduced over the knee pencil skirts and polo’s, slip dresses, full airy skirts and turtle necks, a maxi coat, a shirt dress and quite a few more cropped tops. He added some beach-y elegance in the shape of a chrysanthemum printed high waisted bikini, before changing into a darker mood.

A few looks in black and later in red included silk corset dresses, hoop skirts and a chic little twin set. A floor sweeping cape worn over a bikini was Zanini’s glamorous alternative to the old school pareo. Headbands worn as sun visors, with corsages at the back, round shaped sunnies, small belts one or two bags and those poppy red lips was all else this collection needed.

Rochas was chic, simple and sporty and according to Sophie Rochas the most beautiful collection of Zanini’s hand so far.

 

Steffi Christiaens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow shortly.

Veronique Branquinho Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Belgian designer Veronique Branquinho returned to the fashionworld yesterday with a show, three years after filing for bankruptcy. The designer, who recently presented a lingerie collection with local label Marie Jo l’Aventure returns with a slightly lower-priced collection. Branquinho works together with Italian clothing manufacturer Gibò, who has reportedly also invested in her company. In Paris she showed a chic collection with long fluid dresses in beige – sometimes with a golden touch – suits and shorters shifts that reminded of modern day goddesses. It was less edgy than what she used to present in her early days and what we liked about her collections. But growing up probably also means you have to leave the edgyness behind, but please stay away from the safe side.

First View Milan Womenswear SS2013: Eastbound

Do we dare to suggest this influence will stand strong for another season? For many years the East is of continuous inspiration. For Etro it was leading this season. Digging deep in pattern archives they strive to make the traditional relevant for another new fashion season. With a star role for the paisley they stay close to their roots. We see engineered hand-painted prints that reflect on martial arts, orientalist paintings, traditional kimonos and tattoos.

Generous wrap silhouettes inspired by judo suits with traditional knotted belts. where the pants come in all different lengths. Fusions of saris, cheongsams, kurtas, and caftans in shimmery silks, matt cottons as well as floating sheers. From hand painted florals, to lavish stitched ornaments, dragons and flowers, engineered prints and dimensional patchwork.

Emilio Pucci  layers techniques to update as well as upgrade tradition, Marni adds holiday flavor in bold cotton print, Etro shows classy and sensual silhouettes, where Prada enters a totally personal twist.

This season The East comes with luxurious grandeur.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

This ss 2013 collection looked like a Cavalli in a calm, almost Zen mode. Instead of all sex appeal it was pure elegance and modernity. The show opened with a group of white looks in a clean silhouette with tailored jackets, crisp shirts and flared pants with  extravagant treatments, like draped fringe and leather that was laser-cut and embroidered to look like lace. Prints were shown mostly in black and white, with a few muted neons.
The soft palette and simple shapes  had a calming effect on Cavalli’s extremely sexy items like the lean, elaborately beaded evening gowns with low cutouts  on the hips, down the midriff and around the bust.

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