Hermes Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
For fall Hermes took several fashion classics and gave them an unexpected new twist. Like a navy trench coat that was double breasted and got an extra zipper. Or the pink sweater worn over a turtle neck, combined with an orange belt. Not to mention the red jersey pants with matching jumper, yet contrasting orange shoes laces. But despite these ‘odd’ accents, the Hermes man still is as properly dressed as ever come fall. He’ll look sharp in his navy colored suits and casual in his cashmere sweaters. His leather pants and coats will give his style that edgy touch. As perfect leather shoes, gloves and bags proof he is a man who cares about details. And the item that probably says the most about this man is his croc leather jacket; making him fashion forward, perhaps even trend setting.
Cold Method Amsterdam Fashion Week Preview FW2013
January 20, 2013 by Jetty
Filed under Amsterdam, Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear
We had to miss Cold Method during the some of the latest editions of Amsterdam Fashion Week, but the Dutch fashion brand is back. On Friday 25 January Cold Method will hold a catwalk show in Het Transformatorhuis. We caught up with designer Dieter de Cock to talk about his design process and his idea of what a ‘Cold Method man’ should look like.
Why did you decide Cold Method should be part of the Amsterdam Fashion Week again?
“I’ve seen Amsterdam Fashion Week growing for the last couple of years and I think this season’s program looks interesting. Also, the AFW platform is a good way to reach a lot of people. Everyone’s schedule is always super busy, so by presenting the new collection during AFW we hope more people will be able to stop by.”
How do you make sure Cold Method stands out during AFW?
“Usually we come up with a location that fits the collection and the brand, this time it’s more of a challenge to make the show into something that really breathes CM. Therefore we’ve opted for a smaller location within the AFW and with our street model casting (60% of the CM models will be casted on the streets) we’ll try to still make the show something unique. We are a commercial brand, yet we like to present ourselves as a smaller, more intimate label.”
What can you tell us about the new Cold Method man?
“The CM man is slightly changing every season and I try to let him develop with every collection. For winter he has grown into a more flamboyant type of guy. A guy that dares to wear floral, paisley and pied-de-poule prints and lots of color, yet still looks manly. He wears warm shades like dark emerald, ruby, royal blue and touches of neon, yet black and grey are brought back into the CM color palette as well. His style is a mix between dressy and casual and has a British kind of New Romantics feeling.”
Where did that New Romantics inspiration come from?
“I was inspired by King Charles’, an upcoming artist who looks like a guy from Pirates of the Caribbean and wears the most perfect British suits. It’s his mix of full on dandy looks and tough music that appealed to me. I see the new CM man as a king of his own kingdom who perfectly knows how to dress himself. With this collection I tell him to be whoever he wants to be.”
On Facebook you already posted something about SS2014. Are you that far ahead?
“Yes, I asked my friends (& fans) to come up with their ideas for my new summer collection. I didn’t use any of them, because they didn’t really fit so much with how I saw our CM changing. Yet I found it very interesting to see what everyone came up with. I am already fully focused on that collection. As a matter of fact, I have to present my SS2014 sketches the Monday after the AFW show. It’s my only concern, but we’re very much on schedule with everything.”
On the 25th of January Dieter de Cock will present his Eclectic Kingdom collection of around 28 looks. See some impressions of that fall/winter 2013 collection in the gallery below.
Givenchy Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
It was hard telling Saskia de Brauw from the other models walking through a path of hundreds of candles at Givenchy. Sporting the same dark brown coupe, strong features and muscled legs she perfectly blend in with the rest of the male models. She wore one of the crafted leather looks, leather being a big f/w theme for the French brand. White shirts looked crispy, black pants were well..black pants but those sweaters will be the real success items. The grey ones with the black and white prints will probably sell out first. Paired with white shirts, shorts and puffy jackets tied around the models’ waists they seemed extremely cool, yet wearable. Like almost every piece in this hit collection.
SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers Amsterdam Fashion Week Preview FW2013
January 19, 2013 by Jetty
Filed under Amsterdam, Fashion, Featured Items, womenswear
No Amsterdam Fashion Week without the Spijkers-sisters. Once again Truus and Riet Spijkers are presenting their latest SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers collection. A rock ‘n roll collection with a sweet fifties touch and a muse that is, for a change, still alive. We caught up with Truus to talk about the upcoming SIS a/w2013 collection.
What inspired you for your upcoming collection?
“We thought of a rock ‘n roll / high school theme. Don’t expect lots of black leather; you have to think of the rock ‘n roll of the fifties, a sweet kind of rock ‘n roll. It also has something surrealistic, which becomes visible through the prints. Like with every collection we chose a woman as our muse. I can not tell you who it is. But this time it is a rock ‘n roll lady and she is still alive, which is new for us.”
What kind of winter collection can we expect?
“There will be heavy and light pieces brought together in a somewhat airy collection. Since we’re sold all over the world we didn’t necessarily want to produce a very warm and heavy collection. There has to be something for every occasion and overall the feeling needs to be fresh and light. A SIS woman for instance can wear one of our lace tops underneath an angora sweater. Colors will be winter shades like black, blue and brown, yet done in a fresh way.”
How will the SIS woman be dressed next winter?
Overall the collection has designs for every day, yet there might be one or two looks that are more for a night out. We’ve worked with lace, cotton, silk, crepe de chine, angora and some lovely knitwear out of which we’ve made beanies and scarves. We’ve created super soft suits made of a wool and lycra mix. We’ve produced T-shirts with a dog print and there is another cute print, which we’ve produced in two different color schemes. In every look the waist is the focus point and our models will wear wide belts to stress that.”
Are you excited about showing at the much larger show area at the Westergasterrein?
“I haven’t really thought about that. Let’s just hope the catwalk is not much longer than usually. A normal fashion show is already pretty though for our young models. But the new show area seems like an exciting space which will lead to a different experience. Let’s hope enough people will come so we can fill up the large area.”
What are your plans for 2013 regarding SIS?
“Since last season we have new selling points in France and Italy, which we’re very excited about. Before we mostly sold SIS in the Netherlands and Japan, now we’re really hitting the market in Europe. Yet we’re also planning on extending our sales within the Dutch market. This year we’ve investigated why SIS is not sold extremely well in our home country and found out not everyone knows SIS. A lot of people don’t even know we have a second line and think we’re much more expensive (the Spijkers en Spijkers collection is three times more expensive than the SIS collection). In 2013 we would like to work on becoming more visible and known in our own country. We would for instance love to be sold at the Bijenkorf.”
On the 24th of January the new SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers collection will be shown at 06.00 p.m.
Yohji Yamamoto Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
Too bad all men have shaved their mustaches already after Movember came to an end. If they would have continued without shaving they perhaps would have had the long mustaches Yamamoto showed this week. It was the right timing for an ode to the mustache (we have never seen so much mustache merchandise as in last year), yet they might have been a little distracting from the clothes too. Classic clothes that were given a playful touch. A red tartan printed suit was followed by a grey pleated skirt suit worn with a purple tie and a purple shaded XL leopard cardigan. There was a pair of zebra pants, a purple skirt suit, a duo colored suit, metallic pants and fur vests. Yamamoto might be dressing rockers, fathers, photographers or actors next year; he sure seemed to have had fun while creating one of his most humorous collections in a while.
Junya Watanabe Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
It was patchwork-mania at Junya Watanabe. Loose fitting pants and wool jackets were given hobo treatment. As if Watanabe decided to hide up holes in his garments or decided to work with leftover fabrics from earlier collections. Unshaved long haired models fit the collection, wearing bowler hats on the go. Their looks had a certain British twist, that came in the form of grey pinstripe (a huge menswear trend) and tartan checked fabrics. A black and grey coat mixed with a striped pair of legging looked more scruffier due to two being combined. Jackets and body warmers worn on top of coats seemed too small, because the styling. Yet a toggle coat, a trench coat and a jacket with red shaded tartan pockets did look great. Perhaps, if we could see some of the items styled differently we would appreciate them even more.
Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
Ann Demeulemeester had an extra feminine touch this week. Besides long tops and dramatic floor length coats models wore bowler hats with netting and seemed to wear make-up. Done is her regular color palette of blacks and whites her full length sweaters, embroidered jackets and pants tucked into lace up boots almost felt like a series of Amish Ann-designs. They didn’t appear like the most fun people to hang out with, yet dressed in such great layered pieces the mysterious models looked interesting enough to evoke a conversation.
Jean Paul Gaultier Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
Leave it up to Jean Paul to come up with a surprising show idea every season. After his Michael Jackson, Grace Jones, Boy George-styled womenswear show of last season he, this time, entertained us with a strip show. Dressed in the many Gaultier classics his models stripped down to their grey colored long johns and leather boots. We saw forties influences and seventies style details given a subtle modern touch. Pinstriped suits, overalls with power shoulders, turtlenecks worn underneath fully buttoned shirts, a red pleated skirt and a camel colored jacket with studded arms were among the most outstanding pieces. Lots of recognizable pieces JPG has previously worked on. We can’t wait till the opening of his Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exposition in the Netherlands next month. So we can take a close look at what may have been the foundation of this collection.
Dries van Noten Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
Dries Van Noten opened with upcoming season’s hit item; a robe-like jacket with foulard prints in rich colors. And that sure wasn’t the only success item in this Dries collection. Perfectly dressed, relaxed models sported studded leather pants that slightly contrasted with the easy breezy silk printed pajama-like blouses. Loose fits, fringes and seventies shades gave the collection a hippie chic kind of feeling. Yet quilted bomber jackets and biker jacket details kept it modern. Etro-style paisley prints perfectly worked with a variation of tweeds and checks. It was one of those collection that just feel right, beginning to end. No trying to hard, just comfortable, beautifully made menswear pieces with the right amount of edge to keep us interested.
Louis Vuitton Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
Kim Jones’ love for nature sure was visible in his latest fall/winter collection. He opened the show with two light leapord printed jackets and the nature inspired creations kept on coming. Fur XL collars were followed by fur coats as even a burgundy sweater with the image of a snow leopard (remember last season’s big printed sweater trend?) came by. Winter coats looked super cosy, especially combined with LV’s new type of (nightcap) beanie. The checked suits and stripes coats already breathed luxury, but the finale possibly took the collection to a higher level. With satin, bathrobe style, printed, eastern inspired jackets for those real special occasions.
