Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear Fw2016

Victoria Beckham’s idea for fall 2016 was to make the bustier appropriate for day She cut it in unexpected materials like Prince of Wales check with a bright waxed thread stitched through it and in thick, spongy houndstooth jacquards, both with cutouts sliced below the bustline. These fabrics aren’t necessarily designed to hug a woman’s curves, but she can also opt for the body-con ribbed knit pieces (solids and striped) that Beckham layered over each other to achieve a similarly curvy effect.

To balance that, she also experimented with volume, sending out bubble skirts and others that flared generously to below the knee over flat shoes. Outerwear was strong: Softly structured clutch coats with fringe detailing at the hem shared the runway with more sartorially, sharply tailored numbers in menswear checks.

Public School Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2016

While New York was trying to survive the cold, harsh weather in aggressively styled, street-influenced layers, it could not foresee that this also echoed in Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne’s fall collection of Public School. That meant their compilations of oversize, athletic outerwear, sweeping tailoring and utility gear is relevant and resonating in the streets of today. It also meant the idea is not so new. Chow and Osborne weren’t static about it, though. They kept things fresh with a few bold fuchsia and rust combinations to jolt all the abundance of black, and worked in knit coats and big jeans with raw, fringed finishes that brought a worked-on hand to the lineup. The rugged shearlings looked cool and perfect for todays weather.

Opening Ceremony Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2016

designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon from Opening Ceremony chose a future-focused them for their fall 2016 collection. They took their cues from Syd Mead, the artist who designed the cityscape in Blade Runner and the digiscape of Tron. Lim and Leon projected themselves into a future where people still need matter-of-fact outerwear to keep them warm while they’re riding around on their hoverboards, and miniskirts and over-the-knee boots to wear on their virtual reality dates, and slouchy knits and boot-cut jeans for casual dinners out. The futurism was mostly reflected in the collection’s holographic fabrications, which ran from lacquered croc print to burnout metallic swirls to high-shine velvet jacquard. One of the coolest textiles here was a fine knit embedded with multicolor crystals. Also cool: the Opening Ceremony tees and palazzo pants in a lamé-like silver fabric.
Leon and Lim also paid homage to Syd Mead directly in a number of pieces, knitting his illustrations into sweaters and printing them onto sweatshirts.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2016

Alexander Wangs’s fall show was a trip back to the age of experimental adolescence: ignore outdated taboos and instead seek what’s off limits was his message.
But taboos are hard to find these days. So-called bad taste is a megatrend right now, coursing through fashion up from the street and down from the runways. Wang’s collection, with its mash-up of prim tweed suits and tank dresses subverted by hefty hardware and skimpy hemlines; delicate, sheer tulle tops disrupted with brash censor bars bearing words like “strict” and “tender” across the breasts; and pretty lace insets shaped like marijuana leaves on dresses, was more cute than vulgar. The pink corduroys that riffed on classic prep by replacing polo ponies with strippers on a pole were particularly on-the-nose.
The accessories were good, too, including an expansion on Wang’s recently launched jewelry collection with chain-link rhodium earrings and leather-and-rhodium chokers.

Recap Paris Fashion Week Menswear FW2016/2017

More then ever last week’s Paris menswear shows have got us all hyped up about next winter. Milan already hinted at what is going to be an epic fashion season, Paris just topped it off. Sending us a mixed message and proving for once and all menswear doesn’t have to be just about monochrome suits. The biggest names up on the Paris catwalk calendar showed us how the dressing game for f/w 2016/2017 is done. Bold, colorful, opulent, outgoing, cool and original as it turns out. Here are some of the Paris fashion week highlights, almost making you want to skip both spring and summer 2016 all along and indulge in all these fresh styles.

1. Oversize
Raf Simons (unchained) show seemed to be all about playing proportions. Small (skinny) pants paired with XL V-neck sweaters, checked shirts, woolen coats and quilted jackets reaching as far as the models knees. And while we spotted a few oversized pieces (a pair of slouchy trousers as part of a suit at Dries van Noten) at other brands this show was proof Simons doesn’t play by any fashion rule, setting his own trends and portraying a certain attitude rather than a style.

2. Not so tough
At Louis Vuitton past and future assembled into a military inspired selection of looks, worn young boys. Sporting luxury coats, perfect little hats, skinny scarfs and belts they looked sleek, yet never tough. Modern military seems to has a touch of genderblending in it, if you ask Kim Jones.

3. More is even more
After being the star of 2015 Balmain is not just yet ready to step away from the limelight. Instead, Olivier Rousteing delivered one of the most powerful Paris fashion week collection. Keeping his success formula of boxy, military, yet sexy silhouettes as his starting point he went for a ‘more is even more’ approach for 2016/2017. Broad shoulders, belted waists and embroidered bodycon dresses (yes he showed a few pre-fall womenswear looks too) became bolder than ever. No such thing as too excessive in Balmanation. Beads, tassles and Swarovski crystals all over, of course presented to you by a supermodel cast.

4. Opulence
Dries van Noten once again seemed to have stolen everyone’s hearts with his dreamy collection full of opulence and royal touches. Nightwear inspired creations in silk and velvet. Given an extra luxurious touch by it’s faux fur detailing and the Wes Wilson designed artwork. Contemporary meets classic and some snake embroideries in the mix.

Formal vs. Casual
5. At Givenchy a cast of true model characters showed a collection that was all about formal vs. casual. With freedom being the show’s main theme shiny red bomber jackets made their way onto the runway next to brown colored pinstripe suits and studded jeans shirts. A few red eyed female models appeared extremely tall in the long and lean womenswear designs that were added to the fall/winter mix.

6. Youngsters
Fresh faced boys on the Dior Homme runway illustrated the brand is aiming at a (much) younger audience for next season. They looked cool in their (slightly overstyled) red, white, black and grey outfits. Silk pyjama suits, gold embroidered jackets, studded leathers, necklaces, brooches, belts, shiny shoes, fingerless gloves, it-bags and beanies; it was all their in Kris Van Assche’s slender suiting vs. streetwear collection.

7. Playtime
Bold prints and bright colors at Kenzo; inspired by Blur Gig they attended back in 1995 in Toyko designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon scored with their colourful, playful and fun collection. Classic with a modern twist done the Kenzo way.

8. Bold colors & Bowie
Leave it up to Paul Smith to surprise us with the best color palettes of the season, conveying the Paul Smith messages just by one overview glance at the collection. Add the designers signature stripes and you’ve got the main ingredients of a hit collection figured out. For fall the British designer opted for an eclectic mix of colour, dinosaur prints, every material from cashmere to lurex, stripes, checks and a few paisley prints here and there. Success guaranteed for the designer who summes is collection by “Oh, You Pretty Little Things”, a subtle ode to Bowie in honour of whom Paul Smith hosted a party in the Marais to showcase his extraordinary personal collection of Bowie memorabilia.

9. Colorful & outspoken
If Paris learned us one thing it’s that menswear will be more colorful and outspoken than we’ve seen in a while. Walter van Beirendonck beat all other fashion houses at that point, showing one of the most explosive collections. Leopard suit meets checked dress? Sure. XL ethnic prints and shiny disco pants? Absolutely! No holding back.

10. The no-show
With barely one week’s notice Hedi Slimane decided to cancel the Saint Laurent presentation in Paris and reschedule it in Los Angeles. It felt strange without the best-selling brand, but oh well, Lala land might just be a nice change of scenery.

Streetfashion Haute Couture Paris SS2016, Day 3

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2016

Leave it up to Viktor & Rolf to blow our minds with a collection of wearable art (turning into almost unwearable art). Starting off with a perfect cute little white polo dress inspired by Cubist portraits the couture pieces got bigger and bolder with every single look. Slowly yet steadily turning that girl in the little white dress paired with the latest black shaded Dr. Martens 1460 Ajax Boots into a girl sporting a larger than life white totem. Eyes, noses and lips everywhere, in the mix with V&R’s signature sculptural XL ruffles and bows made out of a white technical piqué. Walking couture sculptures, letting Viktor and Rolf focus on what they’re best at and what they love the most; designing pure pieces of art. Creations not necessarily meant to be worn (although we’d love to see a totem look on some runway any time soon, what do you say front row guest Iggy Azalea..?) or make money with (V&R fragrances cover most of that part), but crafted couture to entertain and inspire. This was undoubtedly the most original take on the crispy white polo shirt we’ve ever laid our eyes on and we won’t soon forget.

 

ILJA by Ilja Visser Couture Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2016

Ever since last season Ilja Visser is ‘one of the big guys’. Meaning on Wednesday the 27th of January the Dutch designer was officially part of the Paris Haute Couture Week for the second time. She chose Palais Vivienne as the show location for the presentation of her SS16 couture collection ‘ASSIMILA’. Quite the classical, baroque backdrop to Ilja’s modern, clean, yet sculptural creations, which, as she explained, were an ode to contemporary femininity. A theme Ilja further elaborated on with crafted, soft shapes, textures and colors (whites, nudes as well as touches of orange and green) that carried a modern attitude. Designs looked impeccable, unique, refreshing and desirable. With an ability to please both the couture shopping rich ladies as well as some popstar stylists (Beyoncé dresser attended the show). Asymmetric strapless dresses, structured jackets, boxy tops and slip dresses and cropped tops; this was couture with a definite cool factor ready to be picked up by Hollywood’s/The fashion world’s latest it-girls. Now the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture might be a dinosaur institute that sure didn’t stop Ilja from giving her scheduled show an extra fashion forward touch. She arranged special light effects to create vivid colors on some of the models. Fresh faced models with a personality, who exceeded in their diversity, representing Ilja’s ‘urban cool’ and ‘new pretty’ beauty norm. Modern talented women, professionals, mothers, spouses and friends Ilja wants to be unapologetic while chasing their dreams. Like she is doing herself, and quite successfully so.

Streetfashion Haute Couture Paris SS2016, Day 2

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.

 

Streetfashion Haute Couture Paris SS2016, Day 1

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.

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