Recap Paris Fashion Week Menswear FW2016/2017
More then ever last week’s Paris menswear shows have got us all hyped up about next winter. Milan already hinted at what is going to be an epic fashion season, Paris just topped it off. Sending us a mixed message and proving for once and all menswear doesn’t have to be just about monochrome suits. The biggest names up on the Paris catwalk calendar showed us how the dressing game for f/w 2016/2017 is done. Bold, colorful, opulent, outgoing, cool and original as it turns out. Here are some of the Paris fashion week highlights, almost making you want to skip both spring and summer 2016 all along and indulge in all these fresh styles.
1. Oversize
Raf Simons (unchained) show seemed to be all about playing proportions. Small (skinny) pants paired with XL V-neck sweaters, checked shirts, woolen coats and quilted jackets reaching as far as the models knees. And while we spotted a few oversized pieces (a pair of slouchy trousers as part of a suit at Dries van Noten) at other brands this show was proof Simons doesn’t play by any fashion rule, setting his own trends and portraying a certain attitude rather than a style.
2. Not so tough
At Louis Vuitton past and future assembled into a military inspired selection of looks, worn young boys. Sporting luxury coats, perfect little hats, skinny scarfs and belts they looked sleek, yet never tough. Modern military seems to has a touch of genderblending in it, if you ask Kim Jones.
3. More is even more
After being the star of 2015 Balmain is not just yet ready to step away from the limelight. Instead, Olivier Rousteing delivered one of the most powerful Paris fashion week collection. Keeping his success formula of boxy, military, yet sexy silhouettes as his starting point he went for a ‘more is even more’ approach for 2016/2017. Broad shoulders, belted waists and embroidered bodycon dresses (yes he showed a few pre-fall womenswear looks too) became bolder than ever. No such thing as too excessive in Balmanation. Beads, tassles and Swarovski crystals all over, of course presented to you by a supermodel cast.
4. Opulence
Dries van Noten once again seemed to have stolen everyone’s hearts with his dreamy collection full of opulence and royal touches. Nightwear inspired creations in silk and velvet. Given an extra luxurious touch by it’s faux fur detailing and the Wes Wilson designed artwork. Contemporary meets classic and some snake embroideries in the mix.
Formal vs. Casual
5. At Givenchy a cast of true model characters showed a collection that was all about formal vs. casual. With freedom being the show’s main theme shiny red bomber jackets made their way onto the runway next to brown colored pinstripe suits and studded jeans shirts. A few red eyed female models appeared extremely tall in the long and lean womenswear designs that were added to the fall/winter mix.
6. Youngsters
Fresh faced boys on the Dior Homme runway illustrated the brand is aiming at a (much) younger audience for next season. They looked cool in their (slightly overstyled) red, white, black and grey outfits. Silk pyjama suits, gold embroidered jackets, studded leathers, necklaces, brooches, belts, shiny shoes, fingerless gloves, it-bags and beanies; it was all their in Kris Van Assche’s slender suiting vs. streetwear collection.
7. Playtime
Bold prints and bright colors at Kenzo; inspired by Blur Gig they attended back in 1995 in Toyko designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon scored with their colourful, playful and fun collection. Classic with a modern twist done the Kenzo way.
8. Bold colors & Bowie
Leave it up to Paul Smith to surprise us with the best color palettes of the season, conveying the Paul Smith messages just by one overview glance at the collection. Add the designers signature stripes and you’ve got the main ingredients of a hit collection figured out. For fall the British designer opted for an eclectic mix of colour, dinosaur prints, every material from cashmere to lurex, stripes, checks and a few paisley prints here and there. Success guaranteed for the designer who summes is collection by “Oh, You Pretty Little Things”, a subtle ode to Bowie in honour of whom Paul Smith hosted a party in the Marais to showcase his extraordinary personal collection of Bowie memorabilia.
9. Colorful & outspoken
If Paris learned us one thing it’s that menswear will be more colorful and outspoken than we’ve seen in a while. Walter van Beirendonck beat all other fashion houses at that point, showing one of the most explosive collections. Leopard suit meets checked dress? Sure. XL ethnic prints and shiny disco pants? Absolutely! No holding back.
10. The no-show
With barely one week’s notice Hedi Slimane decided to cancel the Saint Laurent presentation in Paris and reschedule it in Los Angeles. It felt strange without the best-selling brand, but oh well, Lala land might just be a nice change of scenery.
