Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Tomas Maier’s Bottega collection today wouldn’t strike you as showstopping or mind blowing by taking a quick look. For the show attendees in the sixth row the designs probably just appeared as beautiful creations and we’re sure even the front rowers wouldn’t have been able to see what the clothes were all about. Yes the dresses looked well made and chic, but there was a whole lot more going on. Tomas experimented with fabric construction and chose wool as his main material. “I was into wool, and using it in different ways, washing it, bonding it, or felting it to create print”, he stated backstage. He managed to make wool look sexy and used it to create structured shoulders, 3D peplum details and ruffled skirt pleats. Fabrics were embroidered in order to create several trompe l’oeil prints. In between his see of fully black dresses touches of color (red, beige, yellow) made a good match with the models’ seventies appearances. Lots of attention to detail on designs that definitely deserve a closer look.

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2013 Day 3

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Tonight’s Versace show was all about punk, or ‘vunk’ as Donatella calls it. And though the Italian fashion house already has lots of punk history (Liz Hurley’s safety pin dress from ‘94 was only just recently brought back to life by Lady Gaga), Donatella didn’t feel like looking back for fall. She presented a new kind of vunk that consisted of so many wrongs it was almost right. Models sported body suits, patent leather, cut-outs, high slits, spiked boots, oversize bright colored fur coats, animal prints, sheer fabrics and bright shiny embellishments (incl. larger than life spikes) all brought together in one collection. For a major fashion house like Versace this is probably about as sexy and daring as it gets. Donatella put it all out there tonight as one over the top statement and why wouldn’t she.

Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Veronica Etro built her fw2013 collection around a few themes: Renaissance ceiling murals, Russian ceramics — and, literally, the digital era, using the former as background for cyber-inspired geometric motifs. It made for an interesting collection.
There was a modern side with a sporty sensibility. The outerwear was cut with attitude — and with that rounded-shoulder-of-the-season. The shapes were simple, but the effect was oppositie because of the jacquards, leather, techno-prints, studs and sparkles. Dresses came both loose and waisted, some  turned racy via demonstrative sleeve zippers.

Sportmax Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

The Sportmax-collection was about proportion, transparency and texture. And example was the first outfit that entered the catwalk: a beaver coat, its fur cut grid-like in front, with a black, tuxedo-like lapel and suede back. Other tops had more volume, sometimes with rounded cocoon shoulders and graphic datials like blue eel skin stripes. The big knit sweaters felt cozy.  Often, the pleats of skirts and dresses served as a way to mix fabric and leather. The effect was cool and sophisticated.

Blumarine Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Known for her sweet, soft and girly designs Anna Molinari did not disappoint on Friday. Pastel shades sweaters, coats and (unflattering) pleated pants opened the Blumarine show. Knitted hot pants were mixed with fur-like coats in the same shade as the nude colored footwear seemed to almost be one with the models’ feet. A menswear inspired section in the middle of the show (with a tweed cape, hounds tooth printed fur and a checked suit with statement shoulders) woke everyone in the audience up, before continuing with baby blues and vale pinks. Classic Voluminous shirts with bow details and ruffled skirts were right up on Molinari’s alley. As a few sheer T-shirt dresses and pleated short skirts added a welcome young touch to the collection.

First View Milan Womenswear FW2013: Film Noir

Where fashion is more and more about garments and less about obvious trends that break with previous seasons, here we DO have a trend. It is back to the 40’s with a Film Noir twist. Not that we haven’t been there before. But here it is invigorated with a refreshing raw edge. Refined and elegant, sexy as well as romantic, revealing bits of darkness and gloom.

Miuccia Prada launched her exercise in fashion as cinema. She stages stories of woman and life. ‘Who cares about the dress?’ was her genius quote on Style.com. That is such a meaningful sentence. It is the emotion surrounding the garments that counts and nothing can light up the fire as powerful music and a filmic set.

Nevertheless this was all about lovely lean tailoring, extremely luxurious in desirable fabrics. Beautiful garments as cabans, peplum jackets and hourglass dresses with exaggerated hips. Tailleurs, fishnets and gloves to match with long curvaceous skirts.

Prada referenced Film Noir. She staged the obsessions and passions she shares with both David Lynch and Alfred Hitchcock.

Gucci was darker; adding austerity, vigor and fetish. An ode to craft, embellishing power women and femmes fatales. Dsquared² dived deep into the 40’s with curvy skirt suits and shapely double-breasted jackets. All very costumy and posed.

Let’s make movies!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Moschino Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Please enjoy the pictures for now. Our review will follow shortly.

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2013 Day 2

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

Dsquared Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Dan and Dean Caten took us back to the 1940s with a muscular Karmen Pedaru opening their menswear inspired show. Her hairy evening gown (which caused for a nipple slip to happen) was followed by line up of double breasted suits and high hats. Tight skirts, accentuated waists, fur details, chunky jewelry and rich colors really brought the forties back to life. Beautiful tailored coats and wide legged pants were some of the best pieces. Touches of metallic added that modern touch. Leave out the crazy hats and the rest of the excessively used accessories and you’ve got yourself a perfectly wearable jazz-inspired fall collection.

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