Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

As the European winters seem to last longer every year designer Massimiliano Giornetti made a smart decision making his coats the main focus of the show. He styled off at least half of his looks with a statement coat or jacket. Like a pinstripe jacket, a fur coat or a thick tuxedo jacket that might do the job outdoor too.
Besides a few navy blue and plum additions it was an all black and white collection. Shades that made it easier to focus on the design and details, like sheer parts, simple necklaces (sometimes worn in pairs) and tied up Japanese obi-belts.
Giornetti wasn’t trying too hard to be different or go with any flow. He just created a bunge of slightly minimalistic dresses and coats. Nothing too crazy, yet right on track for the woman that loves to show style without putting herself out there too much. His leather coats were wearable and modern, perfect to last throughout an average winter season. Even if the snow is lasting till March, like this year.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

The golden mosaics of Sicily’s Cathedral of Monreale was the starting point of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s fall winter collection. The duo sent out a dozen dresses printed with Monreale’s famous Byzantine and Venetian mosaics, and just as many lacy dresses in cardinal red. For jewelry, rosaries.
It was less kitsch than last season thanks to the sober herringbones and checks they used for skirtsuits and coats.

 

 

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Missoni ended with a standing ovation today. Also, for the first time Angela spoke to the press about still having hope for Vittorio and her wish to carry on, be strong and focus on work. So without any hesitations the Missoni fall/winter collection was presented like any other show on the Milan Fashion Week schedule. It included loungewear, from pj’s to bathrobes. With bare shoulders, sheerness and fishnets many looks felt slightly too fresh for fall, yet layering up those pieces by comfy cardigans was Angela’s winter proof solution. Touches of light green, pink and blue brightened up the black and white color palette. Some of the shades were used to a degrade effect making two long lean dresses change from white to pink and grey to black. A full on off white winter look, made a perfect new season picture as Missoni demonstrated monotone, in this case sporty, looks will stay in fashion. Not a lot of signature zig zag prints, yet with all the layering and material mixes there’s not a dull moment in sight.

 

 

First View Milan Womenswear FW2013: Fuzzy & Furry

It was the soft spot that caught our eye. Fashion is serious business nowadays, what makes it exiting to see some items that are slightly out of sinc. It is not in number that these fluffy flounces made impact. It is in proportions. These caused some of the models to look nearly as wide as they were tall. From slightly austere in compact curly astrakhans to fluffy alpaca piles, cosy camel teddy bear looks and chunky boucles. It needs slender, tall models to show these looks with elegance yet many may have found comfort and ease in these soft sheltering styles. Not just in jackets and coats, also in giant knit sweaters with twisted cables, trimmed and sleeved with high pile furs. For the more extreme we spotted wild fluffy Big Bird jackets and feathery hairdos.

Ports played with New Look proportions combining astrakhan jackets and hoodies with full circle, below the knee, skirts.  Max Mara’s cocoons where almost caricatures’, showing bulky layers of fuzzy fur-looks in giant square tops and coats. Blumarine showed boho flair in lean long-loop-knitted cardigans and pastel shaded shearling bikers. Gucci combined sensual curves with cosy egg-shaped astrakhans and pony hair jackets.

Maybe it is time to re-hype cocooning!

Stylespot is a cooperation with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2013 Day 4

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

It was not only the stage – a sepia-toned forest mural – that set a melancholic tone at Marni this morning. It was also the collection in sturdy black/cement-gray/greenish wools and tweeds, the roomy aviator-blousons, militairy style and the models make up that fed the mood. The designer played with ideas of un-balanced balance: volume and flatness, severity and grace, opacity and shine. Protagonists were the precision of the lines, assertiveness of the cuts, density of the surfaces. They unfolded and interact, creating an intangible narrative.

Apart from a few high heels, shoes were flat (at the end with a gilded toe) and ridingboots played a major role. Long fur stoles, wound around the neck like boas, and snug fur capes added drama to austere daywear: strapless tops ending in peplums and A-line tunics fronted with a corset traced out in felt. Skirts flared gently and fell about the knee. There were not many prints, only a few at the end of the show: wintry drawn landscapes and black-and-white scribbles adorned skirts and tops outlined with leather taping.

Emilio Pucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

High boots, shorts dresses did the trick at Pucci’s fall/winter presentation. The over the knee boots were suede and came in a range of colors, from camel to red. The dresses varied from pastel shaded, satin printed to sexy transparent with lace details. Clothes, as designer Peter Dundas described them, “women want to put on and men want to take off”.
Though like many of the in Milan presented collections Pucci breathed forties, yet it were late sixties/seventies muses Anita Pallenberg, Britt Ekland (and their trendy bangs) that inspired Dundas. Their modern look a likes had that same rocky attitude mixed with a boho swing in the form of animal printed waist belts, high collars, capes and fur coats casually tossed on their shoulders. And if this boho rock collection fails to become a success; the Pucci beauty will. Bangs it is! (what the first lady can do, we can too).

Aquilano & Rimondi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

What better way to portray Alice in Wonderland than by sending out a collection full of hearts and checks? Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi took the literal way of translating their theme for fall/winter 2013/2014. Their ‘Alices’ sporting high buns and bright blue eyeshadow in a series of forties inspired Wonderland pieces. Ultra feminine knee lenght skirts were paired with peplum tops that had cute puffy sleeves and statement shoulders. Heart shapes could be found on any top or bottom as sequined skirts and embroidered dresses were given a sparkly treatment. Even some of the menswear inspired pieces, like tweed jackets and a long woolen coat got the designer’s feminine touch by in the form of stitches, buttons and added waist belts. A color palette of emerald green, navy blue, red, gold black & white and metallics; a fairytale brought back to life.

 

 

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Like you’d expect today’s Jil Sander show was a celebration of minimalism today. Yet besides serene, monotone dresses, plain tops and clean cut coats there was room for slight variations too. Like graphic lines on a series of turtle necks, winter checks on thick woolen dresses and coats, extra lines and pleats (oh, we even spotted some pockets). The show ended with simple yet perfect gold shaded bars on a few black looks. They put the “High-carat femininity” into today’s show notes as the overall collection indeed breathed “graceful” and “incorruptible”.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

It was not only the Just Cavalli show earlier this week that demonstrated a different ‘Cavalli-feeling’; the Roberto Cavalli line took on a new chapter. The designer seemed to have headed into a new direction for fall leaving out his regular animal prints and over the top sexiness. His printed suits and fur coats were still very Cavalli. Yet his short metallic shift dresses, his oriental printed chunky sweaters and his transparent floral printed ensembles could just as well have come out of a different designer’s collection. Besides black and whites Cavalli introduced deep mineral shades and with floral prints, sheerness and statement making jewelry he added a touch of romance to his industrial collection.

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