Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2015

Beyond his consistent way with silhouette and proportion, there’s another thing that has defined Haider Ackermann’s work: his mastery of color. He tends not to emphasize print on the runway, but it came to the fore in his fall collection yesterday. Leopard spots decorated a tie-neck blouse; graphic black and white checks appeared on slim tapering pants; a polka-dot scarf was tied at the neck of a maxi coat. Topping it all off were fitted jackets and coats in glinting metallic tweed bouclé, the tweed simultaneously lending the collection a boyish and more sumptuous vibe.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2015

The story Junya Watanabe was trying to tell was that of algorithmic folds. The result: incredible shapes crafted out of the basic and commonplace, such as starched white shirts, cropped tailored black pants, capes, moto jackets and T-shirt dresses. Beginning with a plain white starched shirt and full, shiny black skirt in rounded pleats, Watanabe quickly built up the silhouettes into sculptures topped with exaggerated symmetrical headgear that made the models look vaguely like chess pieces. Skirts and capes came in precise honeycomb accordion folds that encased the body, some stiff, some structured but with a springy, elastic movement. A loose, lean jumpsuit had a spiky shrug around the shoulders.
Most of the clothes would satisfy conceptual fashion geeks and retailers alike. But some of it was just for fun: The round, red honeycomb neckline of a hot-pink dress looked like a modern geometric ruff; an even bigger version of it on a purple look had the shape of a grand, perfectly pruned topiary.

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2015

With his fall Balenciaga collection, Alexander Wang made a bold, engaging move — or started to. “I want to approach design [with] something much more subversive and irreverent [in] looking at these classical notions,” he said during a preview to WWD. “I try to respect the heritage and the history, but also add a twist.”
And he did indeed. Out of the gate, mixing meaty fabrics — tweeds, windowpanes, bouclés — in looks grounded in the architectural curvature of the house founder, sometimes with heightened severity. And he piled on glamour jewelry derived from (without copying) the in-house heirloom loot, fastening a sexy wrap skirt with a flower brooch; closing a coat with a dramatic diamanté dagger. Between silhouette and sparkle, there was a lot of lady going on.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2015

For fall, Raf Simons wanted to explore the more sexual side of the Dior-woman by taking her natural urges out of the garden, to a place where more primal instincts dominate: the animal world. The show’s sexual content proved more discreet than Simons’ idea would suggest. The show opened with a pair of short black cutaway dresses with colorful facings and pointy metal mesh collars. Both were worn with second-skin Lucite-heel boots in a blown-up, blue-and-red animal pattern. Such abstracted skin motifs would prove a recurring theme, two or three thick, wavy stripes undulating across a coat or making a splash on a swingy minidress, and, several times, on flashy bodysuits. Often they formed the underpinnings for an impressive lineup of coats.
Tweeds from his Simons’ collaboration with the fabric firm Kvadrat and other substantive materials, including multitone pastel furs, were a core of the collection. A woman in touch with her masculine side looks sexy. Simons dressed her with chic authority in pantsuits with trim, double-breasted jackets over slim cropped pants.

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2015

One high end brand inspired by another? It might occur, yet they’ll never expose it. Although Olivier Rousteing mentioned the roaring seventies, in which YSL reigned supreme, were his source of inspiration. Loulou de la Falaise, YSL muse in particular. Her abundant style of dressing and her vibrant color palette of orange, yellow, purple and green was all over Balmain’s runway. Most pieces were taken to the extreme. Palazzo pants and overcoats slightly drowned the fragile models. Although fringe jackets (already worn by Kim Kardashian, fresh off the runway), body con dresses and big waist belts perfectly accentuated their bodies. The embroidered bodies that used to breathe hours and hours of work were missing for the most part. In stead Rousteing delivered fringes, pleats and fur. Glitters and metallic made the collection 100% party proof. Festive? Absolutely! Yet the collection seemed to lack some of Balmain’s signature craftsmanship.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2015

Luckily Rick Owens´ menswear shocker was no longer talk of the town today. And luckily the designer didn´t pull that stunt again during his womenswear presentation. No instead he gave some of his models gold and silver foiled faces. Metallic masks to match his structured collection that combined glam with Owens signature rawness. Sober shades, but there was more enough excitement to observe. Sequins, fringes and glitter in the mix with heavy winter fabrics like suede, fur and the thickest wool. Techniques of draping and layering made every look appear like outerwear even when bare arms were revealed. Quilted coats, 7/8 skirts, woolen tunics and asymmetric overcoats, that definitely deserved a closer look, seemed futuristic. Not one to set trends or appeal to a mass market Rick Owens created absolute stand out pieces. Pieces that, when styled differently, can be the conspicuous pieces of our everyday wardrobe. Saving those masks for extra special occasions.

Streetfashion Womenswear Paris FW2015, day 1

What are you wearing during the fashion weeks? Your Burberry-boots, that vintage Dior or your latest Celine coat? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2015.

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2015

Ninety already; Rochas is turning into a grande dame. A jubilee that did not antagonize Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s attempt to reach the modern woman though. For his third Rochas collection he did look back. At a collection from 1934, to be precise. Swallows was his theme of choice, which he translated through prints and embroideries. Dell´Acqua´s choice of fabric was delicate and winter proof. Even his cocktail dresses were made out of the softest, warmest teddy like materials. Meanwhile lace and fur, velvet and sheerness magically merged together. In a palette of caramel browns as well as silver, grey, navy, burgundy and a surprising touch of yellow. The show´s feminine silhouette was visible through midi skirts, dresses and coats; not a pair of pants at sight. Waists were accentuated, bow blouses elegantly tied and body parts gracefully covered. A classical image, yet one with a definite modern appeal. The proof that age is just a number and Rochas, led by Dell´Acqua, still has what it takes.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2015

Historical richness and modern elegance met each other at today´s Dries van Noten catwalk at Hôtel de Ville. Here he presented a definite luxurious collection with just the right amount of coolness. Or, as the designer called it himself, grounded glamour. Army trousers worked beautifully with brocade, embroideries and fur. Floral and oriental prints flawlessly merged into original patterns given an extra touch of glam by shiny beads and sequin. Trenchcoats, sweaters and wrap/over skirts were followed by combat culottes, waistcoats and turtle necks. Worn with a certain careless cool (hands in the pockets), but given the absolute luxury van Noten treatment. Safari chic covered under a cloak of lavishness, like only Dries van Noten could pull it off.

Liselore Frowijn Show Presentation Paris FW2015

Dutch designer Liselore Frowijn made her debut this afternoon in Paris, at the first day of Paris Fashion Week FW2015. She presented a small collection in a salon environment. As a designer Liselore feels the continuous drive to capture the energy she obtains from art, music, people, and different cultures she is surrounded by, in her work. Fashion is the best medium to translate all of this in one eclectic vibe.

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