Spijkers & Spijkers Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Luckily there are still some Dutch designers showing their collection in Milan. After a few seasons in London twinsisters Spijkers & Spijkers decided to take their collection to Milan, also because they found a good agency. Jazz and cocktails brought the public (most Dutch press and even the Dutch ambassador)  in a good mood. The collection focused at loose-fitting dresses in their signature graphic patchwork.   Short skirts and trousers were loose and draped around the thighs, pantsuits were slim and boyisch. Stars seemed the main print, as they appeared in a starry-fotoprint and in the patchwork where the twins played with different colors and stripes. Simply beautiful were the black dresses with unfolded seams and stars.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

‘Romance’ is the first word that comes to mind when you see the ss2010 collection of Roberto Cavalli. Airy dresses with flower-patterns came down the runway and were often mixed with blouses and menswear.  Due to this layering the collection lacked a real summer-feeling.  Almost every top or jacket had long sleeves. Pants were often too long to see what kind of shoes were worn.  All models had a small scarf tightly wrapped around their neck and long braids. Sometimes it felt like the countryside. Every model carried her own small handbag, subtly squeezed between her arms and waist. At the end the clothes felt a little bit  like summer when white dresses and more skin were shown. With calm colors like grey, dark blue and beige and little nudity this collection of Roberto and Eva Cavalli looked very honest and sophisticated. (Tess van Daelen)

Milan Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #9

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

For her SS2010 collection Donatella Versace told everyone she was inspired by the idea of a fantasyland. This inspiration was visualized by the use of bright pastels, many different prints and plastic see-through materials, which all gave a barbiedoll-feeling to it. A lot of dresses and skirts were shown, sometimes combined with a jacket. There were also some very slim pants, looking more like leggings. Because of the different geometric patterns some of the dresses seemed to be a combination of a skirt and a top, stitched together. The legs of the models looked endless on the runway due to the fact that the girls wore platform shoes and ultra-short skirts and dresses. There was also a lot of leg shown wearing the evening gowns with a very high slit and silver metallic accents. Altogether Donatella Versace showed off a vivid, youthfull, sexy and indeed fantasy-like collection. (Tess van Daelen)

Gianfranco Ferre Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Roberto Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano only used four different shades to design their SS2010 collection, their third for Gianfranco Ferré. Their short party-dresses and feminine tuxedo-looking suits were all shown in white, ivory, gold or black. By using only these colors the designers lived up to Ferré’s idea that the color of a design is inferior to its shape. A great deal of the dresses were one-shoulder-pieces which had a round shape from the waist down and were worn above the knee. They were made out of transparent wavy fabrics and therefore showed some resemblence to the crimped hair of the models. In some of the designs shoulder pads were used. Most of the looks were finished off with very thin metallic belts, big bracelets and partly open shoes with high metal stiletto heels. The fashion show ended with some theatrical dresses on which transparant veils were attached.(Tess van Daelen)

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Raf Simons went back to nature, in an intellectual way – of course. His ss2010 collection for Jil Sander  took on a rough-hewn edge—dresses in which layers of fabric were peeled back and left hanging in patches; linen and gauze tailoring patched together in sheer and opaque zones; and knitwear manipulated into complex conceptual surface patterns to conceal and reveal skin in unexpected ways. White and navy were the main colors, with some showstoppers in shiny green and blue.

In between: Klavers van Engelen ss2010

Due to circumstances we all can figure out KlaversVanEngelen couldn’t show during Milan Fashion Week. But they certainly designed a ss-2010 collection. They used their signature long, lean silouet for draping and layering beautiful fabrics which were sometimes mixed structures. The overall effect was light and airy.

Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

The ss2010 collection of Alberta Ferretti was radiating peace and quietude. Not models but angelic figures showed off the designs in pastel-shades like beige, pink, lilac and blue. It was merely a show of dresses. A few times they were alternated by skirts or completed with a blouse or jacket. The designs were made in every possible length and decorated with flowers, ribbons and bows. Due to this fact and because of the use of see-through and shiny, silky fabrics the collection breathed softness and romance. The loose fitting designs, the delicate draping and pleating gave the clothes a Greek/Roman touch, which we’ve seen before in Ferretti’s designs. Apart from a couple of belts, a few hats and some bags the models didn’t wear any accessories so all the attention was focused on the clothes in which the models floated off the runway. (Tess van Daelen)

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

The Prada ss2010 collection was one of those collections with a deeper message, but I could not figure it out immediately. Something old, something new, a bit of vintage fifties Miami and clean, modern shapes, artificial meets today’s reality. There was a hint of sportswear with the bikershorts, wide (halter) tops and transparant bags and shoes. Prints were stunning: projections of beachlife, chandeliers and flowerprints in black and white, greytones and pastels. It was more about the message and concept, than wearability.

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

It look like Giorgio Armani (75) recovered well from his illness. The Italian designer suffered from hepatitis last year and had to take some time of. The collection was well balanced with strong items like softshiny Armani-jackets at loose pants and short dresses and happy skirts with structured tops. Colors were both bold and sober, with a focus at black, blue and green and flashes of pink and red.

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