Mugler Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

She was not attending the show herself, yet Mugler still had a touch of Gaga as her new rap song ‘Cake’ was the show’s soundtrack. Clothes didn’t feel very Gaga compared to last season’s over the top creations. This time around Nicola Formichetti and Sébastien Peigné opted for simpler pieces, yet that didn’t mean things got dull…

Structured looks followed each other on the runway. Dresses had architectural skirts and graphic shoulders. Pieces were folded, in line with the origami trend we spotted at some many other shows. And the Eastern influences continued in a kimono style gold printed top.

Gorgeous were the creations in which think patent leather and sheer organza were brought together. A burgundy dress with a layered skirt  and a mustard yellow skirt with printed top, all in patent leather, were the true showpieces.

New were the Mugler handbags, which Formichetti himself carried on to the runway as he made his appearance.

For Mugler next summer is all about picking up the trends started this season (burgundy, patent leather, eastern influences, structured shapes) and taking them to a whole new level.

 

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Dries van Noten always follows his own feeling, that makes his collections so real and honest. For ss2013 the Belgian designer mixed everything he loved – mens/womenswear, grunge and spontaneity – in a contemporary collection. He had enough of minimalism and plainness – just at the time nearly every designer is going for minimal elegance. Van Noten took basic pieces and cut them in the plaids and checks of retro street culture, pattern clashing against pattern, sometimes in the same garment. Yet lightness reigned, in both color (muted pastels that held court with earthier tones) and in the constructions of the fabrics.
Like much of the tailoring, the  decorativeness was informed by the designer’s fascination with couture. Skirts were adorned in front with appliqués of rosettes; a sweater got embroidered sleeves; organza ruffles became a wrap.

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

A shimmery bra-and-brief look combined with a pair of wrestling shoes? At Rochas Marco Zanini proved he knows just how to combine quirky and chic. Dressed in beautifully tailored creations made from the finest fabrics his models appeared classy with a sporty touch.

Comfortable polo shirts with shorts and a wide legged pair of pants matched with a muscled mid rif revealing white top looked like tennis court material. Yet done in softly sparkling stretch brocade they were just a little too fancy.

Done in a gorgeous palette of whites, nudes and silver Zanini introduced over the knee pencil skirts and polo’s, slip dresses, full airy skirts and turtle necks, a maxi coat, a shirt dress and quite a few more cropped tops. He added some beach-y elegance in the shape of a chrysanthemum printed high waisted bikini, before changing into a darker mood.

A few looks in black and later in red included silk corset dresses, hoop skirts and a chic little twin set. A floor sweeping cape worn over a bikini was Zanini’s glamorous alternative to the old school pareo. Headbands worn as sun visors, with corsages at the back, round shaped sunnies, small belts one or two bags and those poppy red lips was all else this collection needed.

Rochas was chic, simple and sporty and according to Sophie Rochas the most beautiful collection of Zanini’s hand so far.

 

Steffi Christiaens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow shortly.

Veronique Branquinho Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Belgian designer Veronique Branquinho returned to the fashionworld yesterday with a show, three years after filing for bankruptcy. The designer, who recently presented a lingerie collection with local label Marie Jo l’Aventure returns with a slightly lower-priced collection. Branquinho works together with Italian clothing manufacturer Gibò, who has reportedly also invested in her company. In Paris she showed a chic collection with long fluid dresses in beige – sometimes with a golden touch – suits and shorters shifts that reminded of modern day goddesses. It was less edgy than what she used to present in her early days and what we liked about her collections. But growing up probably also means you have to leave the edgyness behind, but please stay away from the safe side.

First View Milan Womenswear SS2013: Eastbound

Do we dare to suggest this influence will stand strong for another season? For many years the East is of continuous inspiration. For Etro it was leading this season. Digging deep in pattern archives they strive to make the traditional relevant for another new fashion season. With a star role for the paisley they stay close to their roots. We see engineered hand-painted prints that reflect on martial arts, orientalist paintings, traditional kimonos and tattoos.

Generous wrap silhouettes inspired by judo suits with traditional knotted belts. where the pants come in all different lengths. Fusions of saris, cheongsams, kurtas, and caftans in shimmery silks, matt cottons as well as floating sheers. From hand painted florals, to lavish stitched ornaments, dragons and flowers, engineered prints and dimensional patchwork.

Emilio Pucci  layers techniques to update as well as upgrade tradition, Marni adds holiday flavor in bold cotton print, Etro shows classy and sensual silhouettes, where Prada enters a totally personal twist.

This season The East comes with luxurious grandeur.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

This ss 2013 collection looked like a Cavalli in a calm, almost Zen mode. Instead of all sex appeal it was pure elegance and modernity. The show opened with a group of white looks in a clean silhouette with tailored jackets, crisp shirts and flared pants with  extravagant treatments, like draped fringe and leather that was laser-cut and embroidered to look like lace. Prints were shown mostly in black and white, with a few muted neons.
The soft palette and simple shapes  had a calming effect on Cavalli’s extremely sexy items like the lean, elaborately beaded evening gowns with low cutouts  on the hips, down the midriff and around the bust.

Gianfranco Ferré Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Sometimes just using black and white in a collection can be enough. At least Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi – never huge fans of color and print – didn’t fail to impress with their black & white only collection, inspired by photographs of Guy Bourdin, which made for a monochrome colour palette with accents of gold.

Their designs looked ultra chic. Surprising shapes, mixed materials and asymmetrical details gave every look it’s fashion forward touch. A white skirt, strapless top and long black train looked stunning in it’s simplicity. Low V-necks were alternated with fully buttoned sheer blouses and several one shouldered jumpsuits made their appearance too. Perfect legs were revealed in a series of bermudas, cocktail dresses and short skirts. Still, the selection of streamlined longer evening dresses, which had gorgeous leather leave details around the waist and neckline, made just as much impact with their perfect graceful slits.

Citron and Piaggi stepped away from their very architectural shapes and kept things quite simple. A smart decision since this Gianfranco Ferré collection turned out more wearable than ever. The proof that a minimal collection doesn’t have to boring and less often is more.

First View Milan Womenswear SS2013: Pure Now

We open our Milan survey with a statement of minimalism and purity. Simplicity and geometry in contours and lines are sparked with reduced surprise and understated fun. Open and subtle graphic patterns, or most plain with volants, florals and dots. In simple and sharp basic white, grey and black or plain, vibrant and colorful.

It is striking that this exercise of the clean and serene, this excellence in manufacturing, seems too empty for designers and reviewers to label it just graphic and pure. They stress to look for a deeper meaning and search for the soulful, sentimental and personal. This is a noble attempt to design the now and tomorrow, detached from false sentiments of nostalgia.

Gucci shows aristocratic purism, Prada adds soul by making the graphic all tender an personal, Fendi deletes the logo’s to show clean integrity in reduced tailoring where Jil Sander celebrates the pure in light, fresh and pristine looks.

We like to label this as surprisingly gorgeous reductivism.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Dsquared2 Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

If any of the guests was still a little sleepy at Dsquared this morning he or she sure must have been wide awake the moment they left the venue. Dean and Dan treated us to a loud and fast show, which, at 09.30 A.M. in the morning, can be kinda heavy.

To the beats of a high tempo Alright club mix raunchy dressed models appeared in mini skirts and leather, belly revealing tops with heart shaped straps. They wore hot pants, printed tees and leather jackets. We saw a few black maxi-dresses, a mono-kini and a shiny metallic jacket. Yet it weren’t really the clothes that grabbed our attention. It was hard to keep our eyes off the jewelry and accessories, as models were accessorized to the max.

They had chunky chain necklaces around their necks, hips and wrists. They wore leather gloves and caps adorned with pins and pearls. Ginormous earrings appeared from behind their hair and of course the bags weren’t quite subtle either.

As two male models dressed in white turtle necks took pictures of every single look a voluminous, floor sweeping, leopard printed gown was sent out as Dean and Dan’s final head turning creation. For SS2013 Dsquared is all about getting noticed. Then again, not every brand has to go on board of the minimalistic train.

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