Celine Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

After four years of silence Phoebe Philo (who formerly worked for Chloé) showed a new collection during her runway debut for Celine. By deciding a new iconic look she went back to basic. The clothes looked sober in shades of beige, white and camel. There were hardly any accessories and Philo only used one or two pieces of clothing per outfit. No fuss but clear, tight and wearable shapes and fits. ‘A kind of contemporary minimalism’, as she called it herself. Philo designed many leather pieces, almost all without visible seams, pockets, zippers or buttons. There were some cross-laced items, a few wide sleeves and several epaulettes. A leather coat with a rounded standing collar was the most striking piece of the collection. Philo’s Chloé-touch was visible in  wide pants and wedge sandals. Of course the big question is: will Philo be able to bring back Celine’s success? Judging from the enthusiastic reactions of the audience, she will. (Tess van Daelen)

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Finally after so many days of (sometimes boring) fashionshows with angry looking models there were real smiles on the runway. Stella McCartney was in a good mood – maybe because 2008 turned out to be a good year regarding 20 percent profit – and her message was: embrace life and be happy. Her collection was alike: real clothes for real women but with a little bit of glamor to make it through the day. Relaxed denim skirts just below the knee and male trousers mixed with lace tops and masculine jackets referred to the seventies , although the gender blending was very now. High heels, but also comfy Linda-wedges – a tribute to her late mother Linda McCartney – gave the look an extra edge as did the colors and shiny/matte shantung. McCartneys evening-wear is flowing and moving like a colorful jellyfish, for those late parties at the beach or downtown. Watch her best friend Gwyneth Paltrow, she’ll be probably the first.

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

In Riccardo Tisci’s collection for Givenchy his graphic prints were perfection. He started the show with triangular shapes and cut-outs and horizontal lines. Halfway the collection the audience was blown away when he introduced his print for spring 2010. It had zigzag patterns combined with lines and curves. Tisci used it in many of his designs and showed it in three different natural shades. Even some shoes with platform wedges had the detailed print all over them. Apart from the graphic print some of Tisci’s highlights were a few great drop-crotch harem pants, multi-layered skirts, loose-fitting sleeves and dresses with ruffles in all the right places. He also gave the shoulders some extra attention by adorning and raising them. Puffy collars were worn on top of Roman draped ultra-light dresses. It’s for sure that this Givenchy collection will do well in stores. So we will certainly see its graphic prints passing by next spring. (Tess van Daelen)

Paris Fashion Week Impressions #18

Milan Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #13

G-Star Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Madonna at Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Life is a theater. And so is fashion. Look at the front row at Marc Jacobs, with Madonna, Juergen Teller and Rachel Zoe amongst others. But that was not the message at Marc Jacobs, he is  tired of seeing young girls wearing only black.  They don’t express their individual style, he thinks. And that’s what Jacobs want to change next season. If last season was a trip back in time to the eighties, his new collection is a trip to the theater, the ballet, the opera.  The references, as usual, came at fast speed: touches of Zandra Rhodes, a nod to Rei Kawakubo and the all-Americanisms like sportswear.  The show opened with a conventional raincoat belted above the waist. Later, Jacobs teamed trim military jackets with long, full skirts. There were also lamé dresses, lace openwork coats and suits in white and black sequins and sparkly, leg-baring eveningwear.

Tony Cohen Catwalk Fashion Show

Amsterdam based designer Tony Cohen showed his signature flowing, asymmetric dresses and tunics. Colors shifted from silvery white to greys, blacks and bolder colors like green and red. Graphic black&white animal-like and smokey prints added some excitement.

Donna Karan Catwalk fashion Show SS10

Donna Karan knows what she’s good at. She sent out a wearable collection of soft skirtsuits and body-loving draped dresses. She explained that she was “inspired by the power of the elements”. It could be the wind, as a hem of the opening stretch linen jacket, for example, was molded as if the model  had just encountered a stiff breeze on the runway. The effect was a sense of movement and a pretty femininity. Twisting around the body, Karan’s dresses had a weightless, easy appeal. There were stretch matte jerseys in blush, and wrap styles with more volume in gray and white. Among the many pale neutrals , the bold reds stood out.

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