Talking about color. At Blumarine

February 25, 2011 by  
Filed under Featured Items, Milan, Snapshots, womenswear

Designers are trying hard to tempt us with color. At Blumarine it was head to toe purple, yellow, blue or orange – bags included.

Sylvie van der Vaart at Blumarine

February 25, 2011 by  
Filed under Featured Items, Milan, People, Snapshots, womenswear

Sylvie van der Vaart, wife of soccer-player Rafael van der Vaart (midfielder at Tottenham), visited the Blumarine-show today.

Gianfranco Ferré Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011/2012

February 25, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Milan, womenswear

Gianfranco Ferre felt kinda minimalistic today, due to the use of very basic shades (camel, navy, white). Yet there were a lot of beautiful details in the collection as well. Like coats with multiple collars or see through silver dresses.

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi’s fall collection was fairly straightforward and approachable in a sleek, sexy way. They stuck to a lean silhouette — sheath dresses cut to cigarette pants, and clean coats, some collarless and some with lapels only on one side. The dresses fell just below the knee, many detailed in the front, whether with a shiny panel of metallic fabric, a shredded effect, or sheared fur.

As things progressed towards eveningwear, the sheaths came with embroidered banded effects, some of them backless with crisscrossed spaghetti straps.

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2011 Day 2

February 25, 2011 by  
Filed under Featured Items, Milan, Streetwear, womenswear

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

February 18, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, New York, womenswear

The Calvin Klein fall-collection was loosely based on Mod styles — shift-dresses, trapeze shapes, A-line skirts— but not exactly. Everything shown was done in quiet colors:  wheat, gray, white, a little black. It looked fresh and young, but luckily didn’t have that cute factor to which a swinging Sixties-inspiration can often lead. This was a grown up Mod-style, minimalistic with longer lengths and luxurious fabrics sometimes with a little texture. The silhouette looked looser and softer, there was a focus on volume and proportion play.

A lot of energy went in developing high-tech fabrics, like the thick silk twill that looked like liquid cardboard on cigarette pants, and the silk ribbon jacquard that had a fuzzy, matted finish on a two-piece sheath.

Proenza Schouler Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

February 17, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez  of Proenza Schouler took their inspiration from a trip out West, to Santa Fe actually. Earthy desert colors, like orange, golden yellow and brown, dominated, and were worked into a graphic pattern. That pattern was created by the computer using Native American blankets. McCollough and Hernandez manipulated them into a strong urban-chic look.

The designers played their signatures with rich, highly engineered fabrics. The kaleidoscopic results looked unmistakably theirs. The slouchy cut of their pants, the undone way the back hem of a black suede camp shirt was shown untucked over a slim pencil skirt, or how a party dress with an asymmetric neckline was layered over a black tee.  The fabric innovation made things look quite new. Two great patent shearlings, pressed flat and cut with clean, sharp lines, required a double take. Chunky, viscose and leather knits worked a cozy street effect.  What was most impressive about this collection was that Hernandez and McCollough’s took traditionally homespun themes and made them look sophisticated and even edgy. When did crafted clothes looked so cool?

Michael Kors Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

February 16, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

It was a great Michael Kors Greatest Hits-show, with lots of topmodels wearing wonderful clothes with that typical Michael Kors casual accent.

You don’t have to tell Kors anything about a good fashionshow and -collection, especially after a remarkable 30 years in fashion.  Kors’ grit, grounded ethos and overarching optimism have been tested and retested, and have endured with great style. He has always gave women what they wanted. His anniversary provided an obvious occasion for reflection. Kors wanted to incorporate elements of each decade in his anniversary-collection:the sporty decadence from the Seventies, the athleticism of the Eighties, restraint from the Nineties and from the Aughties, a little exuberance. But above all he wanted this collection to show his core belief: making people look longer, leaner, leggy; showing off skin; comfort.

Even by Kors standards, this was the purest of collections, worked almost exclusively in a palette of neutrals and, tone-on-tone neutrals.  The prevailing line was lean and structured (a tricot tunic and trousers), languid (a jersey dress and pyjamas) and  racy (stretch jersey jumpsuits). For every clean charcoal flannel jacket and straight-leg trouser, there was a clingy cocktail dress or gown. He loves a tunic for Fall, but they shared the runway with bodysuits. The magic word here was sleek. Nearly every look in the show was monochrome, the better to create that long, uninterrupted line Kors favors. Eveningwear was sparkling and glamorous.

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

February 16, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

Like a breath of fresh air brought in from a meadow, Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s autumn/winter 2011-12 collection for their label Rodarte was a moment of quiet grace in a maddening world.

This season, set in a clinically white gallery filled with neon light sculptures, the Rodarte archetype – with her windswept hair – continued her mystical journey in and around nature. This time, the sisters focused on the pastoral imagery of the Great American Plains. It made for one of their more serene and straightforward collections, and that means they can give their label commercial strength too.

The clothing had strong ties to the prairies and pioneers, with long sun-dresses in flaxen, muted gold and sky blue. Often these sheaths were worn with equally long coats. Other looks were familiar from last season, like the high-waisted pants and blouses of intersecting panels of fabric. The sisters evoked early American settlers with colonial pony-skin aprons and cinched waists over A-line skirts. Fabrics had a handmade look and feel, such as boucle wool, rough-hewn wools, floral and guipure laces and mohair knits. The season’s geometrics came in Amish quilt motifs, seen in the sweaters and  tops (patchworked from leathers and pony hair) as well as the tough, tribal-looking footwear with Native American beadwork. Dresses, with their slight bishop sleeves and prairie vibe, looked chic, while the floor-sweeping coats  featured the occasional cutout and crisscross straps for visual intrigue.

The draped silk goddess gowns looked simply beautiful and highlighted their theme literally. They all featured a sky and wheat field scene in various hues, depending on the time of the day.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

February 16, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

There was a forties meets seventies feeling in the collection of Marc Jacobs’ second line, Marc by Marc Jacobs. What that translated into was a primmer, nerdier version of the Seventies, but with Jacobs’ vibe. This came across in the glassy, polished blouses and dresses that left practically everything to the imagination. This was not a sexy collection, nor was it sexless, it just maintained a more professional, adult mentality. The chunky knits, effortless dresses and sizable pants in muddy fall colours of orange and brown had a thrifted, serious quality to them. It somteimes reminded of Annie Hall. Also attractive was the Navajo-style ethnic prints on jackets and a long poncho.

This was a very commercial and dressed collection, but done in a casual way. Elegant dressing the easy way. Don’t we all want that?

Y3 by Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

February 15, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, New York, womenswear

For fall Yohji Yamamoto was inspired by a journey, by traveling around the world. In his opinion young people don’t travel enough. ‘My generation used to be called hippies. Now, young people are backpacking. By walking in the world, young people can see what’s happening, what’s going on. Don’t catch all your information from TV, or too quickly. Just walk. Go around’, he told The Cut.

And with this thought in the back of his head Yamamoto designed a very streetwise and cool collection. His boys and girls looked tough in his designs, walking the runway with their hands in their pockets.

It almost seemed as if Yamamoto took his traveling inspiration literally, since there were outfits for all types of weather conditions. Sporty black dresses, long skirts, Tartan printed shirts,  leather jackets, super thick menswear pants and comfy jersey items formed a nice, youthful Y3collection.

Caps, scarves, bags and big zippers gave the collection an even bigger street chic appeal and proved that even though Yamamoto is 67, he still knows how to Wow his customers.

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