Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

His prints of flowers and barking dogs were all over streetfashion during the last fashionweeks, and Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy is surely held responsible for the fact that fashion moved into a print-loving direction. But after two seasons of prints and black, the designer took the undersea world as his inspiration.

Tisci expressed in his show notes a desire to explore “a more romantic side….The general attitude is softer.” So the powdery colors, undulating peplums and sheer fabrics were indeed unmistakably feminine.

The tailoring was strong, innovative and varied. Tightfitted jackets with jabots swayed like seaweed. Skirts had swooping hems or were scooped open.

Starting in white the monochromatic ensembles became glossier, more mermaidlike, with leather slashed into fish scales and head-to-toe silver sequins.

Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

For spring 2012 Christophe Lemaire combined the most beautiful silhouettes, colors and materials together in his Hermès looks. His RTW-collection was looked serene and comfortable. Long, loose tunics and caftans in cream and orange like shades set the mood for the show.

They were followed by fully buttoned blazers, tops with standing collars, printed and asymmetric dresses with kimono sleeves. Models wore those with headbands, scarfs, bold bangs, simple golden necklaces and gorgeous leather bags (of course!).

Sexy was not the right word for the collection, but the models sure as hell looked confident. And we see absolutely no reason for them not to do so. It was a perfect, slightly Asian-inspired, show with clothes women will actually be able to wear.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

At Galliano it felt as if John never really left. The collection, designed by his successor Bill Gaytten, had the same kind of vibe Galliano shows used to have. Although the over the top styling, the layers of make-up and the theatrical hairdo’s were gone.

There still was a lot going on in the looks, but this time around the story was more clear than before. Printed blouses and dresses with corsages were seen throughout the whole collection. The models wore them with flared skirts, knee length shorts,  feminine jackets and boaters.

All looks had a very vintage feeling to them, but had enough of a modern twist to make women want to buy it. The collection might not be the most trend setting of this fashion season, but at least were glad the John Galliano line lives on.

 

Céline Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

You can’t avoid Céline these days in Paris. Not in the streets, not in the shops – the new minimalism Phoebe Philo preaches inspired lots of people and made women reconsider their garderobe and make new choices. The collection she sent out this morning pushed the boundaries of simply elegant again. This time Phoebe Philo added a touch of militarism and workwear to the clothes.

The grid was formed by wide pants -ankle-height -, pleated skirts, battledresses and longer jackets with large pockets both tied wit a big belt and dresses that reminded of a nurse in gone-by times. The collection breathed moderism in every stitch but had an invisible Forties touch. White was the main color, followed by brown and dark green, one part had flashes of red.

There were Philo’s signature leather structured tops, sweaters, T-shirts and tunics with a longer length at the back. They added a feminine touch to the straight pants and mixed very well with the pleated skirts. Balck suede shoes had high platforms – sometimes in contrasting color -, round toes and big straps.

 

Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

In a season with an overload of prints and color  Rei Kawakubo decided to go with pure white. “White drama” was her description of her spring collection, which opened with an ivory satin long-sleeved dress, straight at front and a full bouffant skirt in the back. The model, veiled and with a high white headpiece had her hands folded in front and tied together at the wrists with a big bow.

The rest of the show all dresses were white and all models looked like prisoners in skirts like padded cages and capes done in grand couture shapes but no armholes. Some dresses were tight and completely restrictive. This was a true Kawakubo-collection: provocative, beautiful and sometimes shocking.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Sweet, well dressed ladies walked the Costume National runway. They were heading to a lunch with friends, a cocktail party or a day at the office (of some kind of fashion company). The looked sophisticated and outspoken. Their outfits all had the right edge to them; it made them stand out, without becoming unwearable.

Strapless dresses were finished off with sheer organza, oversize blazers were used as dresses and in almost every look two shades (we saw white, blue, black and pink) made up for a strong look.

Cutouts, leather shorts and see through tops gave the collection just the right amount of sex appeal. Perhaps some of these girls were off to a first date as well?

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear ss2012 Day 4

What are you wearing during this fashionweek? Your Gucci-shoes, your latest Celine-dress or that vintage Givenchy? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

Backstage at Rochas spring/summer 2012

A look behind the scenes of the Rochas-show season spring/summer 2012 in Paris. See the tension building slowly during preparations backstage, the hair, the make-up, the dressing. And watch designer Marco Zanini feeling excited about this wonderful, cinematic show.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Leather bolero’s with ruffled sleeves probably are the most outspoken designs we’ve seen in Paris so far. Watanabe made them his subversive statement pieces in blue, red and black. He showed them with summer dresses and scary hat pieces made out of feathers.

Those traditionally embroidered summer dresses, which had a vintage feeling to them, were the key items of the collection. They came by, combined with a sheer bomber jacket, a black parka, a tulle skirt, half a trench coat and a trench cape. Items which gave the collection Watanabe’s personal touch.

Not a fan of those half trench coats? If you’d skip the bizarre styling, a collection full of pretty, original and wearable dresses would maintain. So whether you’re an edgy kinda girl or you just wanna play it safe, for summer 2012 you can go both ways with Watanabe.

 

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Seeing a nice outfit you’d like to buy? Just write down the number the model was holding. The Jean Paul Gaultier show went on like shows back in the days; narration in French and English and models holding cards with look numbers on it. They even got dressed where everyone could see them; at the backdrop of the show.

The collection was signature JPG; trench coats, stripes and lingerie. This time he made many of his looks oversize with flare maxi-lengths.

The pieces all had a lot going. Never was a pair of pants just a pair of pants. JPG added unexpected (but fun) details to every look, like pockets, slits, cutouts, draping, sheerness and asymmetry. Not to mention the extreme accessories (nose piercings, multiple earrings, necklaces and bracelets with black pearls and crosses and tattoos.

It was the grungiest JPG collection we’ve seen in a long time, but we kinda liked it.

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