Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2012 Day 5

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Miu Miu-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

The Givenchy-collection was built on strength and confidence, with elements of equestrian motifs from the Seventies. Riccardo Tisci’s signature tailoring came first with variations on riding jackets done in combinations of pony hair, fur and leather that were placed on precise panels. More elaborate outerwear showed Tisci’s leather and fur workmanship, with graphic, diagonal patches of red, black and brown fur spliced on a jacket.
In the end the designer brought some lingerie-like dresses, soft and feminine with their lace-appliquéd, camisole-like tops and pleated skirts.

Issey Miyake Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Benches with dresses formed the opening scene at Issey Miyake. Minutes later those same dresses were sent out on the runway worn by models. The knit pieces didn’t have the best possible fit and all seemed a little strange, but didn’t seem like it was a mistake. Remarkable were the pleated, ruffled and draped grey skirt and vest with light blue detailing and the bright printed suits. And those ‘Michelin’ coats looked unique too. Bright colored leggings added a sportive touch, while two final colored looks (beautifully shown by darker models) represented some kind of streetwise meets eighties vibe. Different from a lot of other brands Miyake’s models were well covered up. No cut-outs or sheer ensembles here, so conquering those cold winter temperatures in his layered, blown up coats won’t be a problem, at all.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Inspired by drawings of Aubrey Beardsley (an influential illustrator and writer in the late 19th century) Bill Gaytten came up with luxurious ensembles for English women. His models were all dressed up in asymmetrical capes and dresses with enormous collars, large gloves and feather fascinators as their accessories. Especially the delicate designs in pleated satin and embroidered sheer fabrics appeared graceful. Done in shades of olive green, cinnamon, light mint and ruby red they seemed perfect for winter. And even though you could see every bit of the models’ bodies through them it still made the girls look classy.

Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Christophe Lemaire opened his show  with a group of platinum-card-holding gaucho girls, with tweed blanket shawls fringed in black leather, ballooning pants tucked into boots.  The South American accent gave an sexy accent to the masculine tailoring. The sizing was loose and generous. The outerwear was strong, especially woolen coats and capes in green. There was also a Hermès version of the tracksuit: T-shirs, cardigan and slim pants in light suede in spicy shades. For evening Lemaire suggested silk skirts in foulard prints and loose velvet tops.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Yes it was a dark collection, but it was an elegant kind of dark. So instead of studded rough leather designer Ennio Capasa created gracefully cut leather pieces, that formed rich details on skirts, coats and pants. And not only the leather was in perfect ‘shape’; every single item in the show was perfection. We would love to get our hands on those majestic coats, powerful pleated pants and minimalistic dresses. The only few items that were a bit off were a series of see through turtle necks, with tape on them to cover the models nipples. The rest of the collection proved Capasa is classier than that and a more subtle kind of sheerness suits him and his Costume National women way better.

Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

It was basically a two-dimensional collection that Comme des Garcons sent out yesterday.A play with volume, color and pattern. The first model that stepped at the basic, unfinished plywood catwalk wore a bright red coat, big and bold when viewed full frontal and flattened in profile. Next came another coat, in pink, later a pink-and-blue circle frock. The show was an explosion of outsized graphic precision and vibrant color. With their their bright plastic helmet bobs atop clothes cut big and flat, the models looked like paper dolls.

Fabrics were structured and in clear, dense hues. Patterns – dots and flowers – were mega-big. After the flat textures came shine and a small group of girls covered in rose prints with their faces hidden in the fabric.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2012 Day 4

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Miu Miu-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

First View Paris Womenswear FW2012: Fierce

Ferocious, brave, powerful and slightly provocative. Clearly a ‘so what, don’t mess with me’, attitude. An expression of exalted womanliness in a stunning range of fierce brights is headed by Lanvin.

A generous emphasis on the curves, hourglass silhouettes and flared frocks that flow from the hips. Silhouettes are rounded, curvaceous and body enhancing. Nothing sweet about these dresses and suits though. Graphic cut outs, chunky mesh and lace layers and inserts, sculptural ruffles, flounces and peplums combined with bare or rounded exaggerated shoulder parts.

Lanvin excels in intense, delicious colors in a quest to reshape women. Yohji Yamamoto goes for contrast in streetwise silhouettes where he wraps models in red jerseys wearing flat combat boots. Balenciaga adds a surrealist touch to a traditional evening wear silhouette, sculpted it in futuristic fabrics. Mugler stays close to its roots staging super heroines shoulders and a body-loving cut.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show FW2012

Tough, funky, crazy, grungy, four words to describe the Jean Paul Gaultier that was a little bit of everything. The French artist showed suits, leather jacket, lots of coats and some evening dressed.

Dark leather looks were followed by bright animal details (snake prints and fur) and later changed into metallic velvet pieces. All looks were very much layered. And the strangest clothing combinations popped up. Like a leather jacket worn over a suit, a parka combined with a LBD and his beloved trench coat turned into a skirt.

The collection felt young, indicated by the models duo colored hair, graffiti printed outfits and in your face fur. On the catwalk looks might seem a little over the top, but if you leave out the crazy JPG styling you’ll end up with some great, quite wearable show stopping pieces.

 

 

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