Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Sweet, well dressed ladies walked the Costume National runway. They were heading to a lunch with friends, a cocktail party or a day at the office (of some kind of fashion company). The looked sophisticated and outspoken. Their outfits all had the right edge to them; it made them stand out, without becoming unwearable.

Strapless dresses were finished off with sheer organza, oversize blazers were used as dresses and in almost every look two shades (we saw white, blue, black and pink) made up for a strong look.

Cutouts, leather shorts and see through tops gave the collection just the right amount of sex appeal. Perhaps some of these girls were off to a first date as well?

Backstage at Rochas spring/summer 2012

A look behind the scenes of the Rochas-show season spring/summer 2012 in Paris. See the tension building slowly during preparations backstage, the hair, the make-up, the dressing. And watch designer Marco Zanini feeling excited about this wonderful, cinematic show.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Leather bolero’s with ruffled sleeves probably are the most outspoken designs we’ve seen in Paris so far. Watanabe made them his subversive statement pieces in blue, red and black. He showed them with summer dresses and scary hat pieces made out of feathers.

Those traditionally embroidered summer dresses, which had a vintage feeling to them, were the key items of the collection. They came by, combined with a sheer bomber jacket, a black parka, a tulle skirt, half a trench coat and a trench cape. Items which gave the collection Watanabe’s personal touch.

Not a fan of those half trench coats? If you’d skip the bizarre styling, a collection full of pretty, original and wearable dresses would maintain. So whether you’re an edgy kinda girl or you just wanna play it safe, for summer 2012 you can go both ways with Watanabe.

 

Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

With their hair blown fully in their face Margiela models strutted the catwalk in some unconventional long and lean looks. One dresses was made without straps, so the model herself hat to hold it up. Others were held together by Velcro and countless zippers. There were girls walking around with the plastic clothing bag over their outfit. And nude colored tops made it look as if the models were really naked underneath their black jackets.

Yet as bizarre as it all looked on the runway, there were some good ideas their. Those maxi leather skirts might just become a hit and short sleeved tuxedo dress could be kinda cool as well. If only things were brought to a more normal proportion this collection would be an instant hit.

Viktor & Rolf catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

The opening of the Viktor & Rolf show, today at the Jardin de Tuileries in Paris. The two French singers The Brigittes performed during the show in a gigantic tulle skirt.

 

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Haider Ackermann proved once again he’s a true master in choosing strong, bold colors, picking luxurious fabrics and mix this  into a graceful, powerful an dazzling collection. His ss2012-collection is about ‘rockabilly barons’ and – so it seemed – his own personal style in an exaggerated way, looking at the and the wide drop-crotch pants that tapered.

The cut was that of traditional menswear, but the fabrics were not. Thick silk and brocades came in beautiful colors, like deep purple, crystal blue and magenta. The lacing in gold and silver gave it an iridescent glow. Sheer silk, used for draped veils and skirts added drama while paisleys and madras added a touch of ethnic.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

You need a genius designer like Alber Elbaz to transform the cut of a jogging suit into a powerful chic womenswear-collection. And so he did for Lanvin ss2012. On the runway appeared T-shirts, pencil skirts and loose shirtdresses,  stripped-down but powerful chic. Elbaz adopted the idea of comfy separates and sportiness for this collection. And how! Track pants ( with side stripes), were anything but casual with sexy slits. A white T-shirt had special, structured sleeves. And the stretch scuba material typical of athletic wear was transformed into tight skirts.

There was a definite Eighties vibe to this glamorous streetwear, not in the least because of the mega jewels — crystal crosses and gold chokers.  Some suits were done in green and black snake prints, which, in combination with the soft pleated dresses held with safety pins, reminded of  vintage Versace.

Streetwear Paris SS12 Part 1

An impression of streetwear outside the fashion shows in Paris.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

The house of Christian Dior is still in transition. And while they are in this vacuum, the only thing the design-team can do is designing commercial stuff. The loyal customer still wants to buy new clothes, no?

Bill Gaytten showed a new, subtle version of the Bar jacket with a wide neckline and more streamlined silhouette. The collection never went to the extremes. The jacket was worn over organza blouses and bubble skirts done in airy fabrics. It looked pretty and feminine in pale colors as well as a few shots of red. The color was a light contrast to the graphic black-and-white check motif and geometric embroideries on shirts and dresses. For evening, it was a steady stream of filmy silks, plied with tulle and lace.

Hussein Chalayan Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

The Chalayan show started with a big act, of which we didn’t really get the purpose. A part Chalayan might just as well have skipped but luckily the clothes made it all worthwhile. The designs were minimalistic, yet there was more than enough to look at.

Like straight cut oversize blazers, long lean dresses, reflective disco shorts and printed tunics. Mostly done in plain shades of black, white, grey, lemon, apricot and some nature-inspired (Turkish and English floral) prints.

Looks felt modern and wearable. The porthole cut-outs, planes and hoodies made it a true Chalayan collection and gave the clothes an original, crazy touch.

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