John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Galliano’s models seemed to have walked straight out of the glamour days of the past. They looked elegant and sophisticated with looks in their eyes as if they were death serious. Even though they wore patent leather jackets, fur coats and shiny gold tops; they kept their poker faces on throughout their walks.

Here too, it seemed pants are getting looser, whilst jackets are getting more and more tailored. After today we will definitely put those waist belts on our Menswear Musthave List. Yet we’re still in doubt if that fur T-shirt should end up there as well…

Kris van Assche Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Fragile young boys sported the eastern inspired look at the Kris van Assche show. Their dungarees, belted jackets and wide legged pants giving them a slightly more noticeable figure. Every design was perfectly tailored and felt unique, new even.

Pinstripes, speckled tweeds, checks and a pop of blue were the only variation in the all white, grey and black color palette. Yet we couldn’t possibly say the collection bored us. On the contrary Kris showed that with the right craftsmanship and a unique point of view even a collection existing solely of black jackets can be extremely fascinating. His clientèle will look so chic in the strong outerwear presented.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

No darkness and monk-like dressing at Rick Owens for fall 2012. His collection looked quite sharp, also chic and masculine. The signature look was a slim, dropcrotch pant in black with a white shirt or turtleneck. Of course there was some leather too, like his signature black jacket, but that even had a sartorial cut.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

At least there is one designer who tries to mix humor and menswear to an elegant collection. Dries van Noten felt like doing something that would make people smile, and so he did. He mixed psychedelic prints with his signature menswear that had a military edge. The military coats, stovepipe trousers and sweaters came along well with the naive prints. The skinny jeans and shoes looked cool.

Also compliments to Dutch artists Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters who realized a mural as a backdrop during the show, featuring the same architectural and typographic motifs.

 

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Young, old, dark, white, red haired, grey, bold, long haired, shaves bearded; the models at Yohji Yamamoto were as diverse as can be. The clothes however were scaled down a bit from what we’ve seen before.

The models looked neat in their duo colored looks. Details like a poncho wrapped around their shoulders, colorful ties popping out from under a suit jacket and diverse hats giving them an extra elegant touch.

Coats played a central role in Yohji’s fall collection appearing in many forms, from militaristic, to tuxedo-ish, and from an asymmetric black version to a woolen red example with fur on the elbows(!?). Eater you love it or hat it, but at least Yohji provided more than enough options.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Viktor&Rolf’s Monsieur is a modern gentleman. As ever, he’s a hybrid of classic intellectual and ravishing style icon.  Viktor&Rolf’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection was inspired by this gentleman at home – taking cues from luxurious interior design treatments and translating them to apparel. The enhanced shoulder structure of silhouettes gives subtle reference to Viktor&Rolf’s female Atomic Bomb Collection – in a masculine rendition.

Outerwear and suiting continue to be iconic staples in the Monsieur wardrobe. Suiting evolves for this gentleman with refined silk tuxedo jackets paired with nappa leather trousers – an unexpected edge to classical eveningwear.  Outerwear is rich offering a range set to olives, burgundy, burnt mauve and deep emerald greens. Pieces are composed of unconstructed overcoats in suri and alpaca wool, cotton nylon parkas sleek in fit, cashmere wool military trenches in olive and black framed with shaved beaver and jacket variations with unique shaved and printed shearling treatments. Knitwear is versatile and functional as lighter outerwear – a coral reversible zipper-front sweater in shearling and crepe wool is a highlight.

 

DSquared Catwalk Fashion School Milan FW2012

High School was the setting at the DSquared show and the model acted like little schoolboys, smoking on the runway and throwing paper planes at teacher. A retro classroom was set at the end of the runway. The models tried to behave like rebels, but the collection was far from that. Just DSquared-clothes: distressed, low-rise denim, fitted biker jackets and college-style shirts. But a great theme to play with. And there were actually some great outfits and garments, like the mohair & angora Fair Isle sweaters, a nice tweed car coat and some fitted suits.

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

In Milan traditional men’s wear fabrics such as tweed, herringbone and plaids were dominating the fall-collections, and Giorgio Armani is no exception. The designer presented a masculine but soft-edged collection,  with knitted wool, stretchy fabrics, velvet,  corduroy and leather. Knitwear was also used as outerwear in double-breasted coats with patch pockets and short jackets with high, zippered necks.

Softness and comfort wove its way throughout the collection: fitted tweed or corduroy suit jackets had deconstructed shoulders, while anoraks were made from black velvet. Armani choose  a looser, pleated silhouette of trouserd that narrowed at the ankle. Plus he presented his version of the power suit, which exuded the arrogant confidence of the Roaring Eighties.

 

Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Etro designer Kean Etro couldn’t get enough of feathers for his FW2012-collection. Feather-prints, real fathers, at shoes, vests, blazers and tailcoats. It gave all the formal and evening looks a fancy edge, but it didn’t lead to a strong collection. Of course there was the usual velvet, the fitted suit and the usual dark colors plus red and orange, which made the collection fit in the trend of romance & decadence.

Gucci Catwalk fashion Show Milan FW2012

Well it was very obvious that the Gucci-collection fw2012 is about romance and decadence. 19th century bohemian men played a major role in this mix of flower prints, velvets, jacquards and tapestry. The designer played with proportions putting big overcoats over chunky crew necks and cardigans over skinny trousers and riding boots. Army and navy-inspirations were also weaved into this collection.

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