Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Inspired by Cuba Olivier Rousteing used quite some Latin influences for his spring collection. Harlequin motifs represented it’s black and white tile floors and beautifully woven raffia dresses resembled Cuban wicker chairs. He used these influences and gave the collection as a whole a early nineties twist. Power dressing. Boxy jackets and heavily shouldered dresses made the tiny framed models indeed look powerful, yet sometimes the fit seemed a bit off.

In between the handcrafted embroidered looks a few simpler denim and leather looks popped up too. They didn’t scream as loud as some of the power designs, yet looked cool enough to be heard. With harlequin motifs, stripes, strong shoulders and some very skilled craftsman Rousteing had all the right ingredients for a success collection. Yet if he had held back just a little, the impact would probably have been bigger.

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Skin was the big news at Balenciaga. Designer Nicolas Ghesquière told the press before the show that its was “the most sensual collection I’ve ever done”. It was all about  stiff ruffles, movement, a-symmetric cut and technical fabrics, dense embroideries that looked like tweeds,  lace fused to molded synthetics, and T-shirt knits dipped in glue for stiffness.
Ghesquière set the tone with the first model’s midriff-baring molded bra and high-waisted pants. And from there came out swinging, slitting long black skirts almost to the hipbone and edging them with deep ruffles.  Asymmetric skirts pushed the leg-theme further, and even the pantsuits were paired with  bra tops.

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Please enjoy the pictures for now. Our review will follow shortly.

Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Gareth Pugh held strictly to his linear graphic style for his ss2013 collection, but this time it seemed softer, even more romantic than before. He even threw in scarlet red to change his palet of black, white and gray. Pugh was inspired by cockfighting, which explained the bloodred, the long hems and extended train-like sleeves. Plus the bloodred make-up. He also put in some flamenco-vibe and Japanese details.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Dries van Noten always follows his own feeling, that makes his collections so real and honest. For ss2013 the Belgian designer mixed everything he loved – mens/womenswear, grunge and spontaneity – in a contemporary collection. He had enough of minimalism and plainness – just at the time nearly every designer is going for minimal elegance. Van Noten took basic pieces and cut them in the plaids and checks of retro street culture, pattern clashing against pattern, sometimes in the same garment. Yet lightness reigned, in both color (muted pastels that held court with earthier tones) and in the constructions of the fabrics.
Like much of the tailoring, the  decorativeness was informed by the designer’s fascination with couture. Skirts were adorned in front with appliqués of rosettes; a sweater got embroidered sleeves; organza ruffles became a wrap.

First View Milan Womenswear SS2013: Eastbound

Do we dare to suggest this influence will stand strong for another season? For many years the East is of continuous inspiration. For Etro it was leading this season. Digging deep in pattern archives they strive to make the traditional relevant for another new fashion season. With a star role for the paisley they stay close to their roots. We see engineered hand-painted prints that reflect on martial arts, orientalist paintings, traditional kimonos and tattoos.

Generous wrap silhouettes inspired by judo suits with traditional knotted belts. where the pants come in all different lengths. Fusions of saris, cheongsams, kurtas, and caftans in shimmery silks, matt cottons as well as floating sheers. From hand painted florals, to lavish stitched ornaments, dragons and flowers, engineered prints and dimensional patchwork.

Emilio Pucci  layers techniques to update as well as upgrade tradition, Marni adds holiday flavor in bold cotton print, Etro shows classy and sensual silhouettes, where Prada enters a totally personal twist.

This season The East comes with luxurious grandeur.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Gianfranco Ferré Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Sometimes just using black and white in a collection can be enough. At least Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi – never huge fans of color and print – didn’t fail to impress with their black & white only collection, inspired by photographs of Guy Bourdin, which made for a monochrome colour palette with accents of gold.

Their designs looked ultra chic. Surprising shapes, mixed materials and asymmetrical details gave every look it’s fashion forward touch. A white skirt, strapless top and long black train looked stunning in it’s simplicity. Low V-necks were alternated with fully buttoned sheer blouses and several one shouldered jumpsuits made their appearance too. Perfect legs were revealed in a series of bermudas, cocktail dresses and short skirts. Still, the selection of streamlined longer evening dresses, which had gorgeous leather leave details around the waist and neckline, made just as much impact with their perfect graceful slits.

Citron and Piaggi stepped away from their very architectural shapes and kept things quite simple. A smart decision since this Gianfranco Ferré collection turned out more wearable than ever. The proof that a minimal collection doesn’t have to boring and less often is more.

First View Milan Womenswear SS2013: Pure Now

We open our Milan survey with a statement of minimalism and purity. Simplicity and geometry in contours and lines are sparked with reduced surprise and understated fun. Open and subtle graphic patterns, or most plain with volants, florals and dots. In simple and sharp basic white, grey and black or plain, vibrant and colorful.

It is striking that this exercise of the clean and serene, this excellence in manufacturing, seems too empty for designers and reviewers to label it just graphic and pure. They stress to look for a deeper meaning and search for the soulful, sentimental and personal. This is a noble attempt to design the now and tomorrow, detached from false sentiments of nostalgia.

Gucci shows aristocratic purism, Prada adds soul by making the graphic all tender an personal, Fendi deletes the logo’s to show clean integrity in reduced tailoring where Jil Sander celebrates the pure in light, fresh and pristine looks.

We like to label this as surprisingly gorgeous reductivism.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Dsquared2 Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

If any of the guests was still a little sleepy at Dsquared this morning he or she sure must have been wide awake the moment they left the venue. Dean and Dan treated us to a loud and fast show, which, at 09.30 A.M. in the morning, can be kinda heavy.

To the beats of a high tempo Alright club mix raunchy dressed models appeared in mini skirts and leather, belly revealing tops with heart shaped straps. They wore hot pants, printed tees and leather jackets. We saw a few black maxi-dresses, a mono-kini and a shiny metallic jacket. Yet it weren’t really the clothes that grabbed our attention. It was hard to keep our eyes off the jewelry and accessories, as models were accessorized to the max.

They had chunky chain necklaces around their necks, hips and wrists. They wore leather gloves and caps adorned with pins and pearls. Ginormous earrings appeared from behind their hair and of course the bags weren’t quite subtle either.

As two male models dressed in white turtle necks took pictures of every single look a voluminous, floor sweeping, leopard printed gown was sent out as Dean and Dan’s final head turning creation. For SS2013 Dsquared is all about getting noticed. Then again, not every brand has to go on board of the minimalistic train.

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Giorgio Armani kept his ss2013-collection ultra subdued with cloud-like colors that moved into a range of lovely blues. The first part of the show contained sportswear pieces worn in layers, often a short jacket over a tunic and pants.  Airiness was the point, and often, the effect, as Armani worked mostly in lightweight silks. Armani’s message of elegant ease he delivered via jackets with softly pleated, flyaway backs; a  focus on shorts and some dresses in gentle prints. Into evening celestial prints and dazzling crystals — grids, starbursts and spheres — exploded against grounds of black and navy.

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