Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

It’s always such a pleasure to see a show of Haider Ackermann. It’s almost like meditation: the slow pace of the models, the sensibility of the clothes, the pureness. Again, Ackermanns guide to his fall-collection was the thin line between strength and fragility.  Tailoring played a major role as did quiet tones of gray, black and white, green. Some of the tailoring was oversized, with full-legged pants and droopy sleeves almost to the knees. The model looked as if they were dressed in their lovers’ clothes. There we also sharper pieces with strong shoulders and defined waists, like the houndstooth military jacket with the collar torn off and the seams left raw, or another jacket in  brown with purple velvet lining its ruffled peplum.

Fur was new at Ackermann, but he used it well. His shearling flight jackets and his collarless beaver-fur coats looked beautifiul.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

In his second ready to wear-collection for the house of Christian Dior Raf Simons brought art and Dior closer together. You could see it on the clothes with Andy Warhol’s early, sensitive drawings as a recurring graphic. Warhol also echoed in the silvered spheres suspended in the room and the Laurie Anderson soundtrack reflected the right mood. But also Dior and Simons got closer: the Bar jacket was paired with baggy pants in a navy or black denim wool.
The message seemed to be about control. Just look at the way the classic “lady” silhouettes—bustier, full-skirted—were translated into black leather, or the Dior houndstooth was transmogrified into a sexy little bustier with a wrapped silk dress. They’ll likely be the ambassadors for the new Dior.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers were the style-icons Dries van Noten referred to while explaining his collection. For fall 2013 he plays with masculinity and femininity, something he enjoyed in former collections too. That play is a subtle thread through the whole season, Instead of fur Van Noten pleayed with feathers. He mixed mannish white shirts with a navy skirt over gray flannel pants, That sounds rayther boring, but the effect was in the details: a necklet of paste diamonds, a skirt with a trail of ostrich-plumes anchored by crystal. There wwere also chunky knits, cable sweaters, varsity-stripe skirts, brocade skirts and plus-zize overcoats – all looking glamorous.  There was also a sexy vibe, not in your face-sexy but subtle.

 

Weather report Milano: Mode Neve

It was snowing in the streets of Milan during fashion week fall winter 2013. See the models, photographers, buyers and celebrities entering the shows.

Giorgio Armani Catwalk fashion Show Milan Womenswear Fw2013

Please enjoy the pictures for now. Our review will follow shortly.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Missoni ended with a standing ovation today. Also, for the first time Angela spoke to the press about still having hope for Vittorio and her wish to carry on, be strong and focus on work. So without any hesitations the Missoni fall/winter collection was presented like any other show on the Milan Fashion Week schedule. It included loungewear, from pj’s to bathrobes. With bare shoulders, sheerness and fishnets many looks felt slightly too fresh for fall, yet layering up those pieces by comfy cardigans was Angela’s winter proof solution. Touches of light green, pink and blue brightened up the black and white color palette. Some of the shades were used to a degrade effect making two long lean dresses change from white to pink and grey to black. A full on off white winter look, made a perfect new season picture as Missoni demonstrated monotone, in this case sporty, looks will stay in fashion. Not a lot of signature zig zag prints, yet with all the layering and material mixes there’s not a dull moment in sight.

 

 

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

It was not only the stage – a sepia-toned forest mural – that set a melancholic tone at Marni this morning. It was also the collection in sturdy black/cement-gray/greenish wools and tweeds, the roomy aviator-blousons, militairy style and the models make up that fed the mood. The designer played with ideas of un-balanced balance: volume and flatness, severity and grace, opacity and shine. Protagonists were the precision of the lines, assertiveness of the cuts, density of the surfaces. They unfolded and interact, creating an intangible narrative.

Apart from a few high heels, shoes were flat (at the end with a gilded toe) and ridingboots played a major role. Long fur stoles, wound around the neck like boas, and snug fur capes added drama to austere daywear: strapless tops ending in peplums and A-line tunics fronted with a corset traced out in felt. Skirts flared gently and fell about the knee. There were not many prints, only a few at the end of the show: wintry drawn landscapes and black-and-white scribbles adorned skirts and tops outlined with leather taping.

Emilio Pucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

High boots, shorts dresses did the trick at Pucci’s fall/winter presentation. The over the knee boots were suede and came in a range of colors, from camel to red. The dresses varied from pastel shaded, satin printed to sexy transparent with lace details. Clothes, as designer Peter Dundas described them, “women want to put on and men want to take off”.
Though like many of the in Milan presented collections Pucci breathed forties, yet it were late sixties/seventies muses Anita Pallenberg, Britt Ekland (and their trendy bangs) that inspired Dundas. Their modern look a likes had that same rocky attitude mixed with a boho swing in the form of animal printed waist belts, high collars, capes and fur coats casually tossed on their shoulders. And if this boho rock collection fails to become a success; the Pucci beauty will. Bangs it is! (what the first lady can do, we can too).

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Like you’d expect today’s Jil Sander show was a celebration of minimalism today. Yet besides serene, monotone dresses, plain tops and clean cut coats there was room for slight variations too. Like graphic lines on a series of turtle necks, winter checks on thick woolen dresses and coats, extra lines and pleats (oh, we even spotted some pockets). The show ended with simple yet perfect gold shaded bars on a few black looks. They put the “High-carat femininity” into today’s show notes as the overall collection indeed breathed “graceful” and “incorruptible”.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

It was not only the Just Cavalli show earlier this week that demonstrated a different ‘Cavalli-feeling’; the Roberto Cavalli line took on a new chapter. The designer seemed to have headed into a new direction for fall leaving out his regular animal prints and over the top sexiness. His printed suits and fur coats were still very Cavalli. Yet his short metallic shift dresses, his oriental printed chunky sweaters and his transparent floral printed ensembles could just as well have come out of a different designer’s collection. Besides black and whites Cavalli introduced deep mineral shades and with floral prints, sheerness and statement making jewelry he added a touch of romance to his industrial collection.

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