Phillip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

February 14, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

Phillip Lim challenged himself this time with a graphic collection in mostly black and white, with some added neutral tones and some brights at the end. The suiting was beautifully tailored, the perfect middle ground between nonchalant and professional. The tapered trousers and soft blazers remained. Lim started with the idea of comic books, which resulted in a duality of shapes, creating a slimming, curvaceous tromp l’oeil silhouette. It also played out well with the  houndstooth pattern.

Lim  introduced chunky knits and tweedy greys. More texture was developed through cable detailing on sweaters, filmy transparent panels,  , and sheeny damask.  Towards the end, Lim welcomed colors, like blues, deep green and tangerine.

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

February 14, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

Donna Karan returned to chic urbanity for coming fall. The collection focused on a thin silhouette and men’s tailoring, often in pinstripes. Karan incorporated her signature a-symmetric style — half-collars, side-draping, off-kilter slits — and dared to revive an audacious shoulder. The dresses shown had an architectural, sculpted feel, as though the fabric – black matte crepes – had been simply moulded around the models’ bodies. She finished everything off with fabulous asymmetric hats. Eveningwear looked  fresh with lean, constructed gowns and a nice mix of felted jersey and sequins on sheer fabrics.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

February 14, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

It was a spectacular set at the Marc Jacobs’ show yesterday. The designers’ friend artist Rachel Weinstein was responsible for this paper construction looking like “a broken castle. Marie Antoinette’s version of ruins”, she told the press. But nothing reminded of 18th century France. It was more like modern streetstyle meeting 17th century – and it was clearly a celebration of fashion and clothes.

The models wore pilgrim shoes with giant shiny buckles,and large furry hats. It was magical and poetic. A cacophony of textures and colours, Jacobs evoked a strange sort of folkloristic glamour. There was a continuation of the past two season’ fascination with contrasting fabrications. Wool stoles were buttoned over wool coats worn on top of patchwork skirts above cropped pants. Prints ranged from oversize paisleys to floral pencil drawings, and holographic appliquĂ©s dripped off dresses. Volumes were turned up to, including padded hips.

 

Derek Lam Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

February 13, 2012 by  
Filed under Events, Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

That was a clear and solid collection Derek Lam presented yesterday. The core clothes were chic, minimalist separates warmed up with American classics, such as a navy peacoat and cable knits, all of which were boosted by exceptional details and fabrics. Leather was a mainstay, whether on fitted baseball jackets with knit trims and streamlined shells, or as an accent, as in the black lambskin shoulders on a long ivory silk gown. It gave the collection a luxurious edge.

Thakoon Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

February 13, 2012 by  
Filed under Events, Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

Romantic and very feminine, in an almost cliche way – that’s what Thakoons fall collection reflected. An undercurrent of sly irony and subversive sexuality coursed through the collection, winking at bad taste along the way. A camel coatdress that looked plain and proper from the front had an exciting  purple leopard-printed pony collar and a leather basket-weave panel in the back. Crinkled patent leather came in black and wild pink.  Chubby sweaters were laced with Mongolian fur. And for the girl who doesn’t wear her heart on her sleeve, there was chic understatement too, such as a black halter — completely backless — worn with matching trousers.

Tommy Hilfiger Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

February 13, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

Town meets country, seemed to be the theme of Tommy Hilfigers fall 2012 collection. And it proved to be a strong lineup of polished silhouettes with equestrian and military touches rendered in warm, fall hues like burgundy, brown and forest green.

There was lots of outerwear, including riding coats, a leather trenches, a double-breasted patent leather one and a houndstooth coat with vintage appeal. Cable knit was another point of interest, which Hilfiger translated as a print on a loose fitting dress. There were other riding motif prints (on silk halter dresses, blouses and skirts), as well as quilted suede jackets and skirts.

Diane von Furstenberg Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

February 13, 2012 by  
Filed under Events, Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

It was a sophisticated collection, Diane von Furstenberg sent out yesterday. Sophisticated, with a distinct Parisian chic. The shownotes mentioned the woman she and designer Yvan Mispelaere had in mind: “Glamorous at a moment’s notice,” “effortless and elaborate” and with “a heightened awareness to the promise of places she has not yet been.”

Furstenberg opened the show with a burgundy jersey off-the-shoulder dress which flaunted the model’s curves, and continued with a series of elegant looks, all in intriguing color-mixes.

Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

February 12, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

Victoria Beckham stayed true to her specific style of dressing: simple, lean and sexy – but this time she added some military influences to her fall collection. The sportiness of last season was gone. Beckham focused at her favorite garment: dresses. They came in strethced knits, were body hugging and stopped right above or just below the knee. There was a buttoned-up feel with pointed collars hovering at the neckline of many of the pieces, shown in an army green, black, brown, orange, and sky blue.

The coats looked sturdy, but were still elegant. Beckham kept the details subdued, a row of gold buttons, an epaulet, or graphic stripe across the body or the side. The styling was daring, with the slouchy socks over buckled-up Louboutin-boots.

 

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

February 12, 2012 by  
Filed under Events, Fashion, Featured Items, models, New York, womenswear

That was a dark show and a tough and sharp fall-collection Alexander Wang presented yesterday. Again Wang played with perceptions by manipulating his fabrics.

Fabrics looked stiff and shiny, the palette was white, black and a bit of oxblood. The silhouette was graphic, with lacquered merino wool tweeds, waxed suedes and shrink wrapped-jacquard knits. The first look was a boxy, white lacquered tweed raincoat with a round helmet of a hood. Under it, a fishnet turtleneck was pulled up over the model’s mouth. Sometimes it reflected a mood of chic aggression.

After the models took their final walk, the lights changed and out came a more elite and elder pack of models, including Shalom Harlow, Karolina Kurkova and Gisele BĂĽndchen as the finale. The looks they wore were the same but with less shine, more refinement and more tailoring.

Prabal Gurung Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

February 12, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, New York, womenswear

In Prabal Gurung’s fall collection Hell and Heaven came together, starting off with all black, followed by a blue period, and culminating in a finale of gold and ivory.  To the press the designer talked about his own spiritual quest, about embracing both the dark and the light within.
The show went from dark to light, beginning with all-black looks on brunette/black models, then a blue section on girls with light brown hair, followed by the ivory and gold finale shown on blondes. With this collection Gurung moved away from the ladyfied looks that got him noticed in the first place.

A sense of precision was revealed in well-defined lines: sculpted coats, tunics and sexy bootleg trousers; a black neoprene dress with sheer tulle inserts at the waist and neck accessorized with a patent-leather spine harness. Bold variations on spring’s Rorschach-like prints turned up, as did the flounced-skirt silhouette.

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