Futura Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

It’s the invitation that gives you the first clue of a show. Same goes for the venue. Especially the venue, as it is the white canvas for your work of art. In the case of Futura it was a little bit bigger than last time, cause for the first time designers Anne Bosman en Sanne Schepers got to show in the Gashouder (not Fashion Lab). And they did so in a pitch black and ominous environment. People standing in the twilight somewhere on the bleaches, holding enormous black flags, like a big (fashion)riot was about to start. Was it? The pumping music wasn’t any prove of the contrary. And when the lights dimmed, an army of men (and a few women) showed up in the dark. Only their silhouettes sparkling in the small string of light, but it was enough to tell they were ready to take on the catwalk. Which they did in their familiair workwear with a minimal look and slightly futuristic edge. Sartorial tradition meets a mix of contemporary details. Cropped hemlines, layering, boxy jackets on slightly baggy trousers and sturdy fabrics. The minimal suit was worked up in different shades of blue and greenish (which worked so well!) and a little bit of playful patchwork to keep their signature feeling. They also underlined the backpack revolution that has been happening for a while now, a good addition to the cool and urban feel of the collection. If this represents the modern day (wo)man, it looks pretty damn good.

Bound Amsterdam Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Friday evening minmalistic premium fashion label Bound presented it’s first collection ‘Class of 2017’. A collection inspired by Japanese culture and the Japanese movie Kurôzu Zero, a dark movie leading to a quite somber palette of neutrals like navy, grey and white. The ultimate shades for a sportive, casual, Made in Italy menswear collection. With (on trend) boiler suits, shorts and matching sportwear jackets, chic jersey tracksuits, long unbutonned shirts, a striped sweater and slouchy jogging pants. Even a silver and gold skirt made it’s way onto the runway (surprise!). But that creation extravaganza aside Bound was mostly about solid, sportive key menswear items any man would love to own. Even the most basic beige and white Tees looked desirable and that says something about the designers’ skills. But guys, you gotta hurry, cause Bound will only release it’s designs in limited numbers.

Juliëtte Heijnen Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Any customer of Julliëtte Heijnen can be rest assured he’ll be looking as original as can be. It’s hard to even give the collection a general description, since all twelve menswear looks were so diverse. With the search for new silhouettes and interdisciplinary presentations as a starting point Heijnen’s male models sported XL T-shirts and sweaters with black linings, holographic prints (in a lovely color palette), raincoats, mesh tops, 7/8 pants and macramé tops worn as dresses. Accessories in the form of pompoms, twisted scarfs, a fishnet mask, double buns and a knitted beanie topped it off. Outfits and styling exercises you can hardly describe in words, you just need to see.

MENSWEAR TREND ss2016: Yay to grey

Experts say brown is going to have a moment in 2017. Yet before we go into that we explore the current color trend which focuses on grey. For SS2016 the biggest fashion labels sent out endless variations to suits and casual wear. Lots of checked grey suits and grey jerseys, but you can basically dress in grey everyday. Just take a look at how Bottega Veneta, Thom Brown, Burberry and Diesel worked grey into their summer collections. Thom Brown presented a full range of the most extravagantly printed grey suits. Even colorful Kenzo turned to the sober hue and of course Armani’s collection wouldn’t be complete without his greige. Whether formal or easy going, a Diesel hoodie or a Burberry scarf, concrete shaded or silverish; have it your way in grey.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2017

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow shortly.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2017, Day 4

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2017

The models zoomed through Dior Homme’s suspended roller-coaster set so swiftly that one would think they were on skateboards. Just when one thought athletic influences were running out of breath, Dior Homme gave them a second wind: from the stripes running over the sleeves of two-button jackets to the tracksuit chevrons painted with a roller onto suit and coat sleeves.
Designer Kris Van Assche also blended in references to punk, Goth and New Wave. Pants had utility pockets, D-rings or side stripes and assumed various guises: from skinny jeans to wide raver styles.

The designer also gave military bombers and blouses fresh verve, adding chevrons here, a striped polo collar there. Sleek trench coats came with the sleeves hacked off, or sprouting a parka tail with drawstrings.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Menswear Paris SS2017

An imagined view from Kelmscott Manor – the country home of writer William Morris – on arts and crafts today was the theme of Dries van Notens SS2017 collection. That translated into romantic visuals based on photo prints of floral tapestry and tonal patchworks.

Belted trenchcoats and high-waisted full-length pants were familiar categories but still compelling ones. There was a whiff of soft military, too, as the prints gradually grew into camouflage patterns, as seen on cropped carrot pants and utility jackets.
Van Noten was at his best when he played with hybrid looks: Rendering tank tops as knitted sweaters minus the sleeves, or mixing panels of tapestry prints with metallic technical fabrics to produce sporty-cool jackets.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2017

Rick Owens goes soft next spring. He carried over his big pants from last fall, also continuing with bloblike drapes and whorled volumes. Indeed, his opening looks in gauzy gray fabrics approximated the gargantuan folds of blubber of this season’s mascot — a walrus.
Yet there was something regal about the cone-shaped silhouettes and the elaborate, sashlike folds worked into T-shirts and tops.
As the show progressed, Owens capped his pyramid-shaped pants with tiny, taut bomber jackets and leather blousons that stopped at the ribcage.

Owens also added shiny embroideries with radiant lines, like depictions of the Sacred Heart, to loose black robes and sculpted tuxedo jackets. It’s a descriptor coming up more frequently as the Paris season picks up steam. Owens’ priestly take on black-tie was certainly divine.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2017

Imagine a young boy touring the savanna in Kenya and alighting upon the Massai people in their vivid red and blue clothing. It’s one of Kim Jones’ strongest and most treasured memories — and it inspired one of his first hit collections as men’s style director at Louis Vuitton five years ago.

For his brisk open-air spring show, the designer got savanna heat and blazing sun, which didn’t seem to phase front-row guests David Beckham or Victor Cruz, both dressed in long-sleeve sweaters, styles that appeared on the runway in shaggy mohair with springbok fur patterns.

The mohair styles looked cool over checkered pants licked with silver zips, among the punk accents that spiked the African theme. The collection had a youthful zing, interspersed with luxury marvels, including a “denim” jacket made of matte crocodile, a molded leather vest with a diagonal zip and a Perspex blanket trunk etched with a giraffe drawing by Dinos and Jake Chapman.

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