John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

At Galliano it felt as if John never really left. The collection, designed by his successor Bill Gaytten, had the same kind of vibe Galliano shows used to have. Although the over the top styling, the layers of make-up and the theatrical hairdo’s were gone.

There still was a lot going on in the looks, but this time around the story was more clear than before. Printed blouses and dresses with corsages were seen throughout the whole collection. The models wore them with flared skirts, knee length shorts,  feminine jackets and boaters.

All looks had a very vintage feeling to them, but had enough of a modern twist to make women want to buy it. The collection might not be the most trend setting of this fashion season, but at least were glad the John Galliano line lives on.

 

First View Paris ss2012: a dress is a dress is a dress

So the dressed-up mood seems there to stay. From careful sculpted and tailored precious gowns with Hollywood appeal, to immaculate sweet nothings in fluttery organza.

Sure is that a couture mood runs through prêt-à-porter collections worldwide. A dressed-up dress-parade shows a rich variety of smart classy daywear as well as more dramatic evening wear. Next to couture spirit an obvious 80’s flavour is intertwined that loosens up hard edge couture looks and adds flair by means of long slits and slices in shifts, tunics and robe manteaux.

Lanvin adds strong character to luxurious understated and monumental shapes in interesting fabrics where texture and drape determine the look in total absence of unnecessary details. Nina Ricci adds urban twists to a heavenly and lingerie inspired collection, where Rick Owens turns tailoring into religion, showing monolithic gowns. Dior opens the box of its rich legacy; showing reworked and modernized dresses reminiscent of the golden age of haute couture.

So to be fair, a dress is more then just a dress.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

In a season with an overload of prints and color  Rei Kawakubo decided to go with pure white. “White drama” was her description of her spring collection, which opened with an ivory satin long-sleeved dress, straight at front and a full bouffant skirt in the back. The model, veiled and with a high white headpiece had her hands folded in front and tied together at the wrists with a big bow.

The rest of the show all dresses were white and all models looked like prisoners in skirts like padded cages and capes done in grand couture shapes but no armholes. Some dresses were tight and completely restrictive. This was a true Kawakubo-collection: provocative, beautiful and sometimes shocking.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear ss2012 Day 4

What are you wearing during this fashionweek? Your Gucci-shoes, your latest Celine-dress or that vintage Givenchy? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Leather bolero’s with ruffled sleeves probably are the most outspoken designs we’ve seen in Paris so far. Watanabe made them his subversive statement pieces in blue, red and black. He showed them with summer dresses and scary hat pieces made out of feathers.

Those traditionally embroidered summer dresses, which had a vintage feeling to them, were the key items of the collection. They came by, combined with a sheer bomber jacket, a black parka, a tulle skirt, half a trench coat and a trench cape. Items which gave the collection Watanabe’s personal touch.

Not a fan of those half trench coats? If you’d skip the bizarre styling, a collection full of pretty, original and wearable dresses would maintain. So whether you’re an edgy kinda girl or you just wanna play it safe, for summer 2012 you can go both ways with Watanabe.

 

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Seeing a nice outfit you’d like to buy? Just write down the number the model was holding. The Jean Paul Gaultier show went on like shows back in the days; narration in French and English and models holding cards with look numbers on it. They even got dressed where everyone could see them; at the backdrop of the show.

The collection was signature JPG; trench coats, stripes and lingerie. This time he made many of his looks oversize with flare maxi-lengths.

The pieces all had a lot going. Never was a pair of pants just a pair of pants. JPG added unexpected (but fun) details to every look, like pockets, slits, cutouts, draping, sheerness and asymmetry. Not to mention the extreme accessories (nose piercings, multiple earrings, necklaces and bracelets with black pearls and crosses and tattoos.

It was the grungiest JPG collection we’ve seen in a long time, but we kinda liked it.

Sonia Rykiel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

On a bright yellow catwalk Sonia Rykiel’s models appeared in looks more subtle than in the past few collection. It started with creamcolored skirts, knitted tops and dresses, which all had a black strip attached to them. They were followed by some lace items (a suit, a pair of pants). Then some pops of yellow, nude, orange and ochre came on. All pretty and perfect for spring.

The collection was mostly the work of her daughther Nathalie and the new creative director April Chrichton, but Sonia made damn sure her signature look was portrayed. The Sonia style was visible in the knitwear, the stripes and the choice of color. So nothing to unexpected, but just the right amount of change to make women hit the stores again.

Viktor & Rolf catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

The opening of the Viktor & Rolf show, today at the Jardin de Tuileries in Paris. The two French singers The Brigittes performed during the show in a gigantic tulle skirt.

 

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Haider Ackermann proved once again he’s a true master in choosing strong, bold colors, picking luxurious fabrics and mix this  into a graceful, powerful an dazzling collection. His ss2012-collection is about ‘rockabilly barons’ and – so it seemed – his own personal style in an exaggerated way, looking at the and the wide drop-crotch pants that tapered.

The cut was that of traditional menswear, but the fabrics were not. Thick silk and brocades came in beautiful colors, like deep purple, crystal blue and magenta. The lacing in gold and silver gave it an iridescent glow. Sheer silk, used for draped veils and skirts added drama while paisleys and madras added a touch of ethnic.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear ss2012 Day 3

What are you wearing during this fashionweek? Your Gucci-shoes, your latest Celine-dress or that vintage Givenchy? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

 

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