Lanvin Fashion Show Womenswear Paris SS2017

A number of long sheer dresses popped up Bouchra Jarrar’s first collection for Lanvin today. Quite the revealing type of dresses, so to say, as the models only wore panties underneath. A daring move for a Lanvin designer debutante (Jarrar quit her own label to focus on Lanvin). Although she introduced some more formal looks too. A striped suit match with a striped blouse for example, adding some masculinity and rigidness to this very seductive and fluid summer collection. Leather jackets decorated by eye catching feather colors gave the collection some extra weight too. As floral embroideries and appliques as well as choker necklaces with matching bracelets and rings kept things playful. Python bags, diamond encrusted slippers, leather belts straps and necklaces with the looks of metallic scarves did the rest of the SS2017 trick. Now let’s elaborate on this new Lanvin look.

Saint Laurent Paris Fashion Show Womenswear Paris SS2017

It must be though for anyone to fill Hedi Slimane’s shoes as the new head designer of Saint Laurent. Yet Anthony Vaccarello dared to take the plunge as he presented his first collection for the brand. In line with what Slimane has been doing for the past couple of seasons Vaccarello came up with an all black, tough ‘n sexy collection. Looks with a rebellious touch. The kind of rebel chick that would cut up a vintage Yves Saint Laurent dress and have her way with it, as Vaccarello did. Both heavy leather and sheer fabrics alternated each other as metallic touches and leopard prints made their way onto the runway. We counted three blue denim trousers. And we felt like looking at an eighties collection meant to be worn underneath the disco ball. Sexy tuxedo suits and revealing dresses. Asymmetry and pointy shoulders. And some colored XL tassle earings to take the collection home. Vaccarello seems of to a good start.

Milan Fashion Week SS2017 Trend Round-up

Three cities down, one to go. Yet before we head over to Paris, we’d like to recap Milan Fashion Week. A week full of fashion abundance. From Prada’s seventies inspired co-ords (including that fur cropped top) to Fendi’s airy aprons. And while Jil Sander and Marni kept things quiet, Gucci and Roberto Cavalli turned things up a notch. If it’s up to the Italian fashion houses colors are going to be vivid (candy pink, royal blue and sunrise yellow, anyone). Both pajama styles as well as military influences (with some eighties shoulders in the mix) are a big theme. We can dress as nomads as well as lolitas next season. And sporty details are to be found in almost any collection. Some Prada shorts and a Versace parka perhaps? Chic leisure it is. Getaway prints (from Dolce’s Italy promotion to the tropical leave prints at MaxMara) that make you dream of next year’s holiday destination. And those clever leather belt bags make it a lot easier to dance the night away in your full on glitter outfit. SS2017 is about celebration fashion in just about any style direction with trends to match anyone’s taste or mood.

Pleats please
As seen at Marni, Versace and Jil Sander

Parka chic
As seen at MaxMara, Sportmax, Versace

Military mood
As seen at Tommy Hilfiger, Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli

Branding
Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Versace

Disco Dolly
As seen at Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Vincenzo

Belt bag
As seen at Marni, Jil Sander and Tods

Oh dear, so sheer
As seen at Prada, Fendi and Emilio Pucci

Liselore Frowijn Backstage Catwalk Show Paris SS2017

It’s always exciting to watch the mayhem backstage at a fashion-show. Dutch designer Liselore Frowijn presented her collection for the second time in the capital of fashion yesrday. We checked what went on behind the scenes.

Liselore Frowijn Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2017

The SS17 collection ’SAGOI’, is an homage to an old canal house in Amsterdam with beautifully contained ‘Delft Blue’ tiles dated 1667. Liselore Frowijn has interpreted the iconic hand-painted ceramics by tracing them with her signature style, both painting the illustrations directly on silk and using blown-up graphics in bold overall prints.
The illustrations display mythical scenes of an escape to a pastoral lifestyle of farmers in the Dutch 17th century. Research on these tiles’ topography brought Frowijn to the Japanese island of Kyūshū, where Dutch-Japanese exchange started around 400 years ago. Liselore Frowijn visited the Japanese island this summer to work with local artisans in the indigo-workshops on developing several textiles and implementing techniques that have been used for decades.
Next to the abstracted pastoral scenes, the pieces feature nude figure drawings inspired on the traditional Japanese Shunga erotic woodcut prints, combined with flower-dessins from the Mantero archive. With additional screenprinted graphic layers of blown-up Japanese masks, shibori-indigo dyes, woven kasuri textiles and Delft Blue paintings, the entire collection embodies the story of two worlds meeting once again in intermixed cultural traditions.
Using the tunic as a base piece, the collection has grown into a semi-couture extravagance of where each look presents a new layer and playfully stacked bold prints. Each garment can be worn as a canvas depending on your mood, with a dazzling richness in combination as a result, balancing on luxury-couture and sporty details. The woman Liselore admires embraces the unknown with a sweltering sensuality and as you imagine the Amsterdam house, she takes you to an idyllic realm where two worlds collide.

Marni Fashion Show Womenswear Milan SS2017

Away from the noisy over the top collections of Milan fashion week Consuelo Castiglioni presented a pieceful Marni collection on Sunday morning. Starting off with a range of eight all white looks. Eight structured classic looks including a crispy white shirt with XL sleeves and a trenchcoat. They were followed by a series of draped one shoulder creations as pops of color (mint, raspberry, chocolate, bleached yellow, white) and subtle micro floral prints were added to the collection. A variety of wrinkled, pleated pieces versus stiff and structured alternated each other. Though this was a collection low on accessories Castiglioni managed to make a big statement with a selection of hip-widening strap on poacher-pocket bags. It’s hard to think of anyone wanting to rock these after the fashion week madness is over. But we got the message. These are clothes for women with a true fashion sense who don’t rely on anyone’s opinion. In Marni you don’t necessarily have to look sexy or on trend, you can just dress comfy and look cool.

Dolce & Gabbana Fashion Show Womenswear Milan SS2017

Their Italian roots have always been a focus point in their collections, but for SS2017 Domenico and Stefano took the love for their country a little further. Their complete summer line up seemed an ode to everything the Italian cuisine is famous for. Pasta, pizza, icecream, wine, fish and appertivi. And who wouldn’t want to work a silk pyjama with ‘gelato’print, an airy fusilli dress or a tomoto hat? Aiming at a younger audience (a fresh club of millennials sat front row at their show) Dolce & Gabbana brought the fun back in fashion (if it was ever gone). This was maximalism at its peek, with gold embroidered ‘matador’ jackets, encrusted sunglasses, floral hatpieces deluxe, statement bags, vived colors, print extravaganza and a large amount of sparkling crosses in the mix. For those able to look through the madness there were some beautiful creations. A perfectly tailored suit and a splendid black lace midi dress among other pieces that show the portray the designers fashion skills. Yet it was the maximalism in this collection, the dancers on the stage and the white printed Tee filled finale that made the noise that will eventually reach the Dolce customer. A fashion loving youngster looking for something original to wear on the next Instagram post. A quick fix. Let’s hope some of the more classic Dolce & Gabbana creations won’t get lost in the hype.

Bottega Veneta Fashion Show Womenswear Milan SS2017

The see now buy now concept that has been circling around many fashion shows was nowhere to be found at Bottega Veneta. Thomas Maier is not interested in commercial immediacy. He wants to design beautiful clothing, made of impeccable materials, that will last more than just one season. So his collection was more about wardrobe classics than it was about trends or modernity. Vittoria Ceretti opened the show in a long croc leather jacket and a pair of high waisted 7/8 pants. A dark look for S/S2017, but perhaps Maier wasn’t focusing on one season eather. Just as he was not focusing on one gender (it was a collection of both mens and womenswear) or age (many of the ensembles would work for women of any age, even Lauren Hutton, who carried an intrecciato woven clutch bag in the 1980 movie American Gigolo, entered the runway). And indeed, we could see those belted trenchcoats and tee dresses be worn by a large group of women, any time of the year, to just about any occasion. Lots of (bright colored) leather, leather detailing (belts, pockets, collars), a classic silhouette (with a focus on the waist) and a selection of fresh looking statement bags (15 bags from the Veneta archive were reproduced). 50 years of Bottega Veneta celebrated with timeless style.

Versace Fashion Show Womenswear Milan SS2017

Who would have ever thought Teva sandals would appear on a Versace runway? A sign that, for SS2017 Donatella Versace was ready to change things up a bit. Adding ‘sportive’ to her usual ‘strong’ and ‘sexy’ collection. She introduced color blocked parkas and leather jackets to add to her selection of bodycon leggings, mini skirts and tight dresses. Next summer the Versace woman is going places other than cocktail parties and night clubs. But even in a midnight blue raincoat she’ll make heads turn, just like closing model Gigi did tonight.

Sportmax Fashion Show Womenswear Milan SS2017

There was a little something for every woman in the new Sportmax summer collection. A red strapless jumpsuit, a pair of high waisted white trousers, an XL printed parka, a slouchy sweater, a cocktail dress and even a highly decorated evening number made their way onto the runway. All perfectly fine creations, yet none of them jaw dropping. The circle belts felt forced, as did the remarkable pointy hats and the sportswear drawstring detailing. The collection seemed to lack vision, urgency, a certain freshness. We didn’t spot any musthaves, not the kind of clothes you’d want to put on your summer wishlist immediately. Not the see now buy now type of clothing. Cause, loose and slouchy might fit on a lot of female bodies, it doesn’t necessarily appear elegant or sophisticated. But perhaps this was a collection that needs a little more time to grow on us. Who knows in a year from now that Sportmax slouchiness is all we’re looking for in our summer wardrobe. For now we remain undecided.

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