Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Rochas’ fall collection is Marco Zanini’s definition of chic. He reconnected with his Swedish roots with charming results. The outcome became a refresher course on fashion classics. There were the boxy kick-pleat skirts and Shetland wool sweaters, oversized coats in felted wool and swingy jackets, paired with leggings or capri pants. Elements of  tailoring were sprinkled throughout, including some  blazers with hefty shoulder pads. For night, Zanini took a  turn showing black brocade cocktail dresses with exposed zippers.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Dries van Noten presented a beautiful, restraint collection, mainly in black, white and camel with flashes of color and exciting prints. He got inspired by David Bowie and the Ballets Russes and translated that into a romantic collage of print, color and textures. And it was ultrachic. Lond coats over pants, golden skirts with black sweaters and dresses cut with intense yet visually discreet asymmetry.

Josephus Thimister Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Again Dutch designer Jospehus Thimister tried to make a comeback, after the presentation of his haute couture-collection a year ago. Hopefully he will last longer now. Thimister started his show with total black and total white outfits – suits, dresses, jumpsuits – loose, draped, for men and women. The most interesting part though was the second half of the show, where Thimister used his obsession for fabrics to present rough, tough knits and garments made of hairy felt and skin in white and grey tones.

Round Up Milan FW2011

All lovely femininity and seduction is what we perceived past week in Milan. This is definitely part of the Milan signature. Here are some linking influences to round up Milan: a shared sense of nostalgia, amazing fabrics (it’s all in the mix) and exiting colour schemes.

Gucci and Prada put a big mark on this Milan season. They are the runners up in the 5 influences we like to quote.

SIXTIES Prada moved us towards the 60s and 70s, some literary references like dropped waists with big, low-slung belts and chunky buttons. But most of all innovative and refreshing.

GLAM: Gucci reinforces the 20’s, 30’s feel, which was already strong in NY, and this was done masterful in an amazing mix of saturated shades, topped with lush fur and loads of feminine flair.

SOFT COLOUR: a statement made by Missoni, new hues which will surely be of influence in the near fashion future.

MASCULINE/FEMININE: Ferragamo played the masculine against the feminine wonderfully and we’ve seen more of these androgynous twists at Dolce & Gabana, Dsquared² and Sportmax.

SHINE: when it came to all the shiny surface effects, another BIG issue, Etro, the master of print, was one of the many designers who showed these artfully.

One last remark! Long lengths, extremely long, but still (we didn’t count) we’re sure Milan showed more knee then NY. We guess since most designers are referencing towards a more recent era.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.

First View Milan FW2011: More Lace

There’s more lace to come from Milan! We spotted it in New York and London and got it confirmed now in Milan. Lace is a red thread linking collections, looks and styles.From cobwebby, embroidered, chunky to featherweight. Plasticized, coated, printed and sequined. From antique to high tech and modernistic.

In Milan, it was most of all used the authentic way. Pretty and lady like, refined Chantilly lace.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Milan FW2011: Soft Color

The soft colors that popped up in Milan are definitely an opening towards a new spirit.

A fresh palette launched by Bottega Veneta, Missoni and Etro. Pale precious pastels. Not just soft in shades, also dimensional peach-touch fabrics with lots of knots, curls and pile. Candy coloured yet not that sweet, the unusual fabrics and wild combinations give this look a daring twist that makes us curious to see more of it next season.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

John Galliano Fired!

Christian Dior has fired John Galliano as it’s creative director.

“I unequivocally condemn the statements made by John Galliano, which are in total contradiction to the longstanding core values of Christian Dior,” Sidney Toledano, Dior’s president and chief executive officer, said in a statement today.

Dior stated that the “odious behaviour” exhibited by Galliano in the video released yesterday was the last straw resulting in his dismissal.

Source: Vogue

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The name of the Giorgio Armani fall collection was Boudoir. Maybe because of the powdery pink colors? The fluffy furs? The dreamy dresses? Anyway, the master redefined the trousers by cutting them off at the ankle and giving the room to sway. Skirts were long and flowing, dresses skimmed the figure, fluid as water, and the Armani-suit got an update: buttons at the back instead of the front.

Soft pinks were a constant, together with black , gray and brown. Every single fabric was the product of research said the program-notes: satins that seem to meld into the skin, siks, velvets and chiffon that float like a trail of perfume.

DSquared Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The fall-collection Dean and Dan Caten sent oput this morning was the same theme their menscollection had: early American settlers mixed with tough biker chic. The basis: ultra tight jeans, leather bikerjackets or jackets with pouf peaked shoulders and nipped in the waist, white shirts, long coats and lace up boots set on iron-blades, ice-skating style.  There were also bustier tops, floor-sweeping leather dusters,  plaid hotpants, fringed blankets worn as capes or wraps and massive fur coats.

It was the styling that brought panache at the show and the collection, leaving that all behind what’s left is a jeans, a jacket and a shirt. Nothing new really.

First View Milan FW2011: Shine

The Shine-theme is about all that shines, from metallic armors to shimmery diaphanous layers. Who thought we would be dipped in sobriety for another season was wrong. Though there are still restrained looks and  calm understatement plus loads of minimalistic shapes, some designers have clearly found a route to escape.

It is far easier to diversify and stand out in more expressive and new materials then when having to dig deep into total simple and soberness. So we welcome the sequins, high sheen silks, lurex metal shine and slick skin looks. Plus high tech coatings or big translucent scales layer plain colour and print.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

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