Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Owens chose a heavy theme for his fall/winter show. Battle-scarred heroism was the inspiration for his signature big coat, boots and T-shirt and a full range of black and white creations. His pale models with the frizziest hardo’s could be seen sporting kimonos, asymmetric tunics and coats with larger than life stitches (which were in fact created by traditional basket-weaving techniques). Large gloves, high standing collars and a few fur details accessorized the looks. Like so many designers Rick Owens opted for a Japanese influenced collection. Yet he managed to use this popular theme in a very unique way, inspired by his notion of heroic grace under pressure.

 

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers were the style-icons Dries van Noten referred to while explaining his collection. For fall 2013 he plays with masculinity and femininity, something he enjoyed in former collections too. That play is a subtle thread through the whole season, Instead of fur Van Noten pleayed with feathers. He mixed mannish white shirts with a navy skirt over gray flannel pants, That sounds rayther boring, but the effect was in the details: a necklet of paste diamonds, a skirt with a trail of ostrich-plumes anchored by crystal. There wwere also chunky knits, cable sweaters, varsity-stripe skirts, brocade skirts and plus-zize overcoats – all looking glamorous.  There was also a sexy vibe, not in your face-sexy but subtle.

 

Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear Fw2013

Inspired by the Asgarda tribe, a group of Ukrain warrior women who segregate themselves from the everyday world to become strong and independent the designs indeed seemed to empower as the models wearing them looked tough and confident. They appeared feminine and Victorian in Pugh’s long and lean silhouettes (in shades of black, white, grey and blue) with raised necklines and dramatic floor sweeping skirts. Structured leather and gold embroidered silk looked both Gothic, romantic and futuristic. Simple T-shirt inspired tops with chic pockets (a reference to the Asgarda women) added a new minimalistic approach to Pugh’s line. They formed quite the oppossite of the series of black finale dresses, which got a little more drama with every look. Who would have thought trash bags from a one pound shop could look this impressive?

 

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear Fw2013

Appearing from a marble staircase we met up with Marco Zanini’s girl for fall. A humble girl with a great sense of style. A natural beauty with not only a wonder wardrobe but great taste too. She gracefully matched a few over the knee skirts with quite stiff woolen tops and roomy coats. She pulled off a selection of oversize dresses with duo colored gloves to match. And she managed to look chic in a series of pleated New Look skirts combined with jackets and waist belts to accentuate her feminine figure. Even in her pj’s she seemed perfectly put together carrying her statement making rolled up leather bag. Her wardrobe’s warm winter shades (light blue, apricot and mallard green, baby pink and burgundy) looked ever so chic against her perfect pale skin. Zaninin’s girl isn’t trying too hard or following any trends. She is just being her fashionable self, rocking some of the finest Rochas investment pieces that will last longer than just one season.

 

 

 

 

Gianfranco Ferré Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear Fw2013

Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron presented their collection in a new show venue this year. To the designers the Palazzo della Permanente not only was a new show area but a fresh start for the Gianfranco Ferré fashion house as well. Piaggi and Citron’s new beginnings did not necessarily mean a whole different signature though. They stayed true to their architectural, asymmetrical style. Done in a color palette of simple shades (nude, black, white, navy) the designers presented quite difficult fabric constructions. Dresses, kimono tops and smoking jackets all had a lot of folding, overlapping and layering going on. With accessories like croc obi belts and leather neck creations it was even hard to distinguish one piece from the other. Yet the designers sure managed to keep things interesting.

 

Giorgio Armani Catwalk fashion Show Milan Womenswear Fw2013

Please enjoy the pictures for now. Our review will follow shortly.

First View Milan Womenswear FW2013: Cool Wool

It seems designers are expecting severe temperature reduction by introducing all Glacial Age-proof wardrobes. Especially since these cover the tailored city wardrobes and not performance outdoor gear. Coats seem the main subject of interest this season as well as woolen skirts suits and plaid shifts. And not in featherweight seasonless qualities but in chunky textured versions. ‘Wool is cool!’ definitely seems to be the credo this season. In bespoke luxurious plains as well as washed, bonded and felted versions. Prints, tweeds, color-wovens, plaids, marls, and some with coated and embellished finishings. All showing extreme elegance and a touch of nostalgia and romance.  Wool is ideal to play with proportions and volumes, it can drape as well as shape. On the surface it can shows chameleonesque qualities, and can be sculpted in any volume or proportion. Ideal for the minute excises in tailoring that most designers are into.

Sportmax goes for tactility and textures in marled tweeds. Bottega Veneta curves with precision and sensual elegance. Prada adds a hint of sex to a seemingly very un-sexy material. Where Jil Sander conveys proofs of serious craftsmanship in bespoke tailored silhouettes.

Wool warms fashion hearts as well as bodies.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

As the European winters seem to last longer every year designer Massimiliano Giornetti made a smart decision making his coats the main focus of the show. He styled off at least half of his looks with a statement coat or jacket. Like a pinstripe jacket, a fur coat or a thick tuxedo jacket that might do the job outdoor too.
Besides a few navy blue and plum additions it was an all black and white collection. Shades that made it easier to focus on the design and details, like sheer parts, simple necklaces (sometimes worn in pairs) and tied up Japanese obi-belts.
Giornetti wasn’t trying too hard to be different or go with any flow. He just created a bunge of slightly minimalistic dresses and coats. Nothing too crazy, yet right on track for the woman that loves to show style without putting herself out there too much. His leather coats were wearable and modern, perfect to last throughout an average winter season. Even if the snow is lasting till March, like this year.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

The golden mosaics of Sicily’s Cathedral of Monreale was the starting point of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s fall winter collection. The duo sent out a dozen dresses printed with Monreale’s famous Byzantine and Venetian mosaics, and just as many lacy dresses in cardinal red. For jewelry, rosaries.
It was less kitsch than last season thanks to the sober herringbones and checks they used for skirtsuits and coats.

 

 

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Missoni ended with a standing ovation today. Also, for the first time Angela spoke to the press about still having hope for Vittorio and her wish to carry on, be strong and focus on work. So without any hesitations the Missoni fall/winter collection was presented like any other show on the Milan Fashion Week schedule. It included loungewear, from pj’s to bathrobes. With bare shoulders, sheerness and fishnets many looks felt slightly too fresh for fall, yet layering up those pieces by comfy cardigans was Angela’s winter proof solution. Touches of light green, pink and blue brightened up the black and white color palette. Some of the shades were used to a degrade effect making two long lean dresses change from white to pink and grey to black. A full on off white winter look, made a perfect new season picture as Missoni demonstrated monotone, in this case sporty, looks will stay in fashion. Not a lot of signature zig zag prints, yet with all the layering and material mixes there’s not a dull moment in sight.

 

 

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