Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

When it comes to show backdrops it’s hard to top Chanel and it’s enormous decors. Still, Prada has been creating some impressive ones for it’s shows over the past few year. This week lilac coloured sand-dunes formed the backdrop of Prada’s summer collection. Although summer was not the first word coming to mind when looking at the passing creations. Due the moody vibe of the show, the choice of heavy and rich fabrics (the knitwear, the fur, the leather, the brocades) and the first half of the collection containing mostly dark coats autumn might be more of a seasonal match. Nevertheless designs were impressive in the way only Miuccia Prada can impress. Coats, a lot of them, had obvious topstitching and most clothes with undone frayed ends had a patchwork design to them. With 30 different types of brocades worked into the collection, creating modern pieces of reproduced antique textiles. Something old turned into something new; luxurious yet undone. Elegant earrings, knee socks and oddly shaped blog boots put the Prada S/S2015 look together. A look returning models (after quite a period of absence) Gemma Ward (opening) and Lara Stone (closing) were able to pull off fabulously.

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

With Cara Delevingne leading the way Fendi looked young and fresh. The orchid played the biggest part in the collection as it popped up as a print on the first ten or so designs. Only to appear as a application on leather designs as well as a decoration in the models’ hair and even on the bags. Oh those bags, they probably deserve a show of their own, especially the little ones attached to some larger models for the occasion.
But back to the clothes.. Karl and Silvia created a-line dresses, fringed sweaters, sheer skirts, cropped boxy tops and asymmetrical structured playsuits. Colors of choice were fresh, ranging from black and white to navy and cacao. There was some use of plastic layers as denim made it’s first ever appearance on a Fendi show. Some fun, furry numbers even concluded the show and, unlike at other shows, seemed a perfect fit for a midsummer Fendi feast.

Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

 

Floor sweeping maxi dresses, pastel shades and embroidered flowers; Alberta Ferretti is sticking to her sweet, soft and feminine signature. Yet, for s/s2015 the Italian designer did manage to appeal to a slightly younger target group. Instead of just perfect, romantic wedding guest proof dresses she dug into the free spirited world of hippies and festivals. In between her series of seventies inspired designs she surprised us with a few denim creations as suede, feathers and countless fringe accents added to the hippie vibe of the collection. White lace, floral embroidered dresses paired with suede waistcoats and fringed gladiator sandals certainly deserve a place at next year’s Coachella. As does a silky pair of shorts combined with a brown shaded braided crop top. And for anyone not attending a wedding or festival Alberta came up with an embroidered nude jumpsuit and a lilac playsuit that will do well as summer chic office attire

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

At Gucci we were presented a mix of many things really. A mix of luxury and casual, sensual and practical, western and eastern influences, but also a combination of vintage inspired and more modern pieces. Overall the collection had a seventies vibe, which perfectly coincides with Kate Moss – Gucci’s front row guest – being the new face of the brand. The topmodel is known for her seventies rock chic way of dressing. She loves a good pair of jeans as much as she adores her many fur creations. We therefore could see her working the biggest part of the collection into her daily wardrobe. The army inspired, double breasted jackets while on the go in London. The XL laced up tops while lounging on a yacht near Saint Tropez. The patchwork, Oriental printed chiffon dresses when attending a fancy fashion event. The 7/8 pants might be a little more tricky, as they would be to any average woman’s figure. Same counts for the stiff, thick leather designs that mostly just look their best on a model’s body. But Frida came up with more than enough wearable options for next summer. The gorgeous color palette of browns and reds definitely set the right mood. The accentuated waists (by brown leather belts) and silk scarfs added to the cohesiveness of the collection. And as strangely as it might sound, we’re looking forward to rocking some of that fur underneath the Ibiza sun.

Jesus del Pozo Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

Creative Director Josep Font of the Spanish house Delpozo played with volume, proportion and illusion. He began with exaggerated sportswear silhouettes: the widest of red culottes paired with a white wrapped bandeau, and the fullest of skirts, beautifully done in a white, navy and green midi strapless dress with a white shirt underneath. He then shifted gears into more sculptural pieces inspired by the land art of Nils-Udo, including a yellow top with an exaggerated peplum and a sculpted flower on the bodice, and a miniskirt with origamilike panels.
He also paid homage to the 19th-century glass creations of Leopold and Rudolf Blaschka with a green tulle shirtdress embellished with seashells.

Michael Kors Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

Michael Kors’s collection can be described as American optimism, feminine but also rugged and sporty.

Seethrough such skirts played a role in Kors’ prevailing silhouette — waist-centric with a full skirt that indeed hints at the Fifties without ever making the trip to retro. The polite transparency recurred as well, wearability achieved when paired with crisp, elongated skirts.
Flowers abounded — pristine daisy appliqués on all-white looks; a camellia print on a pajama; big geraniums embroidered on indigo mikado. Kors delivered on the sporty side of his equation with cropped chinos, one pair worn with a shirt and gray cashmere pullover with matching corsage; strong outerwear, and his grounded footwear. This included a rugged sandal set on a prim, low heel. The style’s name, at least on Sunday morning: the Jesus Kitten.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

Energy — the driving force of the planet, whether it unites, divides, uplifts or negates. In a matter of three seasons, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley have infused Marc by Marc Jacobs with the kind of charge that people seek out. Young, fierce and intense, the powerful attitude established for fall gained momentum for spring.

‘Be who you are’ would be the mantra of the spring Marc by Marc girl. Wearing a cropped T-shirt layered under a plastic, pastel-blue polka-dot bandeau and matching skirt, herhair twisted into a mohawk of mini-buns, she would be the confident nonconformist at the party — intimidating but probably a lot of fun.

 

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

The Rodarte-sisters starting point for their spring collection were tide pools and all of the glistening, mysterious materials and textures therein. Whether they were referencing the life aquatic of their California youth or of their verdant imaginations, no matter. They mined the waters and came out with dresses mesmerizing in their messiness: elaborate pastiches of hand-painted laces, tulles, netting and embroideries.

But life isn’t lived underwater, or after dark only. The Mulleavys showed an affinity for daywear their way: lovely ruffle-collared blouses that looked plenty sexy atop skintight jeans. They developed outerwear as well, which they envisioned on a girl standing on the pier watching the water. These came in sturdy olive canvas with wide netting on the sleeves, as if some chic flotsam had washed ashore on a wave of inventive practicality.

 

Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York SS2015

It looks like Victoria Beckham is re-addressing her aesthetic signature now that she has a store of her own in London. The designer approached spring a lot like a retailer, with staple items — a shirt, a sweater, a coat — that may have hinted at a few directions but were united by Beckham with polish and commercial appeal. These included the uniform-inspired khaki looks, such as the elongated coat with subtle military details like soft epaulets and workwear pockets. The knits and graphic stripes made a bolder statement, though she kept the lineup’s surprise for the finale of bright florals that were screen-printed on voluminous woven raffia skirts and shown with white cotton shirts.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York SS2015

‘New York Nation’ was the theme of DKNY’s bold spring collection, which aimed to celebrate the city’s color, culture and creativity. Donna Karan translated the idea via bright hues, several graphically rendered like a kaleidoscope on oversize silhouettes. Those included the striking red-and-blue V-neck tunic over a full skirt with a soft flounce. The subtler colors achieved more effect, such as the crisp mint-green parka shown with a striped T-shirt and a miniskirt. It still captured the energy of Gotham, but with just the right control.

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