AFW FW2012 LAB-Show: Furansu & Nieuw Jurk

During the third LAB- show it was time for fashion labels Nieuw Jurk and Furansu to show their collections.

Nieuw Jurk
It’s not easy these days, especially during this financial crisis, to work in the cultural area. But we have to make the best of it and support it the best we can, must designer Esther Meijer has thought. The designer graduated in 2004 from ArtEZ in Arnhem and showing here for the first time, is not pessimistic at all these times although she’s also struggling sometimes starting her new label. ‘I’m an optimistic person and although the difficulties these days, with this collection I want to show in a humorous way that you can make it work.’

Her current collection is named Krisis. To finance the collection she came up with the idea to use crowdfunding. And with success. The label raised half of their money via their website and half by subsidies. Although the sober name of this collection,  she showed very colorful pieces. All unisex, her trademark, and multi- functional.  ‘You can wear all these clothes in many ways. With some you can zip off the sleeves, others are reversible. And it’s for both men and women, very androgyn. Just like myself.’  She used different fierce hues and fabrics, like the body-con lycra dresses with some cut outs or patches on places that accentuate the shapes of the body. And not just patches, if you take a good look, you see these round patches form the eyes of a smiley face, happy or sad. It’s up to you what you make of it.

Furansu
Also showing for the first time at the Amsterdam Fashion Week is knitwear label Furansu. The two young Chinese designers behind the label, Annie Ching and Kay Lai, have known each other for years but have been working together since 2010. Both studied fashion across the world, he in the US and she in the Netherlands, but two years ago they, both graduated by the time,  decided to join forces. And it worked out really well. Their label is known for their well executed, timeless knitwear but always with a contemporary edge. ‘I like knitwear so much because I like to work with a lot of different fabrics and textures. They way it looks and feels is very characteristic’, Annie says.

Today they showed a collection based on German dancer Pina Bausch, tells Annie. ‘I saw a picture of her and got a lot of inspiration. In her way of dancing and expressing you see a lot of interesting contradictions and the one that got me the most was the one between strong and feminine. And these things we also used in our current collection.’ It resulted in some heavy knitwear but with soft, feminine elements. Like the long, knitted dress with the transparent sleeves. Or a dark blue jumper revised with a plastic topcoat in the front. ‘We like to use different twists in our clothes.’

Backstage at Ado Les Scents AFW 2012

Take a look backstage at the show of Hyun Yeu’s collection Ado Les Scents, which was inspired by the book ‘1984’ of Aldous Huxley.

AFW FW2012 LAB-show: Melissa Siegrist & Bravoure

Up next to show in the LAB-series were Melissa Siegrist and Bravoure. Two completely different collections, but both very interesting in it’s own way.

Melissa Siegrist
Although she started designing womenswear at the Arnhem Institute of Fine Arts, today Melissa came up with a strong menswear collection. Not really out of the blue though. The young designer is exploring the borders between men- and womenswear for a while now. But eventually she seems to like menswear the most, she tells. ‘I always thought I had to graduate in womenswear, but I was wrong. That’s when I decided to design menswear, which in my opinion is the most interesting.  When I’m designing for men I start completely blank so I can be more creative. When I’m designing for women, I always think what will suit me, which gives me more restrictions.’

Her current collection is another journey searching for the fine balance between male and female, strong and soft elements and concept and comfort. This resulted in some interesting combinations, like jute bomber jackets worn over a perfectly executed, crispy white blouse. Or a jute, sleeveless top worn over a several layer, transparent skirt. And what about a long, see- through trouser worn over shorts. A great combination between sport and elegance.  The colors were very neutral, with the usual black and white. ‘I always work with black and white, because they make the perfect color blocking combination.’ It was her first appearance here on the Amsterdam Fashion week, but certainly not a bad one.

Bravoure
For designerduo Kim Jansen and Patricia Hofstede it was not the first time that they showed here. Last year they made their fashion debut here, but it didn’t made their appearance less exciting today. ‘I was a little nervous, I must admit. But it’s totally different this time, because we’re better prepared know’, Kim says. With both totally different backgrounds when it comes to their education, both designers make a perfect combination when it comes to their work. ‘With my technical background I’m more of the execution, while Patricia is more of designing the clothes. When we’re working it all slowly comes together.’

Today they showed a collection inspired by the late twenties. The contradiction between the really sexy and flirty and on the other hand the purity and innocence of women back then, were a real inspiration. Think flared, high waisted trousers combined with a sexy blouse, or a heavy knitted vest worn over an elegant dress. All perfectly executed, in beautiful colors like brown, beige, orange and ocher yellow. There were also some architectural prints used on tops. It made you definitely hungry for more fashion that seems to come straight out of this era.

 

 

 

Backstage at AFW LAB -shows Jivika Biervliet en Sarena Huizinga

Take a look backstage at the first Lab show of today. We watched the male models getting dressed at Jivika Biervliet and of course the bunny-girls at Sarena Huizinga. Did you see those cute, knitted shoes?

AFW FW2012 LAB-show: Jivika Biervliet & Sarena Huizinga

Today it’s not only about the big boys in fashion, but also about celebrating new talent. And that’s what the LAB- shows are for, where new and young designers get a chance to show their talent and introduce themselves and their work to the big audience.  The first two designers to kick off the day were Sarena Huizinga and Jivika Biervliet.

Jivika Biervliet
As a young student she had no clue about once becoming a fashion designer. And look where she is today, showing her collection for the first time to a big crowd. And she’s more proud than ever. ‘This collection really feels as my very own.’ Graduated as a menswear designer at the Utrecht School of Arts in 2010, she worked herself up as a true fashion designer exploring menswear in every aspect. ‘Designers seem to be more cautious designing for men. But in my work I just really want to push the limits a bit.’

Today she showed her collection called Forever Young, which was about the child inside of us that will live forever. The theme resulted in soft colors and big and playful elements, like jackets covered all over with stuffed, fluffy hearts and a shirt with such a long sleeve you could skip with it. She also used the most gentle and warm fabrics like wool, fleece and faux fur that made remind you of the good things of childhood.

Sarena Huizinga
Graduated from the Royal Academy of Arts The Hague in 2008 with a great collection, Sarena Huizinga showed already the great potential she has.  The last few years she developed herself as a true knitwear specialist, well known for her high quality knitwear characterized by the industrial seamless knitwear combined with traditional handcraft. Something she has not only discovered and learned at school, but also from her mother. ‘My mum used to knit a lot and it made me really curious. What I like about knitwear is that you can really explore and develop the competence. It’s not only about structure and color, but also trying out different seamless shapes.’

She already showed once before at the Amsterdam Fashion Week, during the 2008 Lichting- show, and now she’s up for the second time. Her current collection is called Wickedland, inspired by soft toys like dolls and stuffed animals and used these playful elements in her designs. Like marching-girls wearing bunny ears on their caps or an alpaca dress revised with thick woolen ruffles, inspired by a Spanish doll she once got. Not wanting the collection being too sweet, she added some leather details to give it some edge. There was even a small surprise during the show: a little kid walked down the runway in the cutest little knitwear suit with little bunny ears on his head.

by Eva Dusch

Impressions of AFW FW2012 Day 1

The first day of Amsterdam Fashion Week is a fact. Highlights of yesterday were the opening party, the Sjaak Hullekes-show and the Bas Kosters-show, with the launch of his magazine Extra Kak and a performance of the designer himself.

It’s All In The Family: Bas Kosters

This edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week we focus at designers and their biggest supporters, family. Where would they be without their mom, dad, brother(s), sister(s)and or grandma’s? They help finishing their designs, they drive the car, they cheer them up and cry emotional tears. The first family we would like to present is Bas Kosters with is mom, dad and his brother Joost, who’s also the financial controller of Bas Kosters company. They’re present at all his shows.

 

Streetfashion Amsterdam Fashion Week FW2012 Day 1

What are you wearing during the Amsterdam Fashion Week? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Amsterdam Fashion Week.

Sjaak Hullekes Backstage AFW FW2012

Take a look backstage at Sjaak Hullekes, who’s show was part of the openings night of Amsterdam Fashion Week. Models get pampered and ready for the show.

 

Amsterdam Fashion Week is Warming Up

 

Every body is getting ready for the openingnight of the 16th edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week. The first pictures are being taken, the first interviews and backstage the models are getting ready.

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