AFW FW2012 LAB-show: Melissa Siegrist & Bravoure
Up next to show in the LAB-series were Melissa Siegrist and Bravoure. Two completely different collections, but both very interesting in it’s own way.
Although she started designing womenswear at the Arnhem Institute of Fine Arts, today Melissa came up with a strong menswear collection. Not really out of the blue though. The young designer is exploring the borders between men- and womenswear for a while now. But eventually she seems to like menswear the most, she tells. ‘I always thought I had to graduate in womenswear, but I was wrong. That’s when I decided to design menswear, which in my opinion is the most interesting. When I’m designing for men I start completely blank so I can be more creative. When I’m designing for women, I always think what will suit me, which gives me more restrictions.’
Her current collection is another journey searching for the fine balance between male and female, strong and soft elements and concept and comfort. This resulted in some interesting combinations, like jute bomber jackets worn over a perfectly executed, crispy white blouse. Or a jute, sleeveless top worn over a several layer, transparent skirt. And what about a long, see- through trouser worn over shorts. A great combination between sport and elegance. The colors were very neutral, with the usual black and white. ‘I always work with black and white, because they make the perfect color blocking combination.’ It was her first appearance here on the Amsterdam Fashion week, but certainly not a bad one.
For designerduo Kim Jansen and Patricia Hofstede it was not the first time that they showed here. Last year they made their fashion debut here, but it didn’t made their appearance less exciting today. ‘I was a little nervous, I must admit. But it’s totally different this time, because we’re better prepared know’, Kim says. With both totally different backgrounds when it comes to their education, both designers make a perfect combination when it comes to their work. ‘With my technical background I’m more of the execution, while Patricia is more of designing the clothes. When we’re working it all slowly comes together.’
Today they showed a collection inspired by the late twenties. The contradiction between the really sexy and flirty and on the other hand the purity and innocence of women back then, were a real inspiration. Think flared, high waisted trousers combined with a sexy blouse, or a heavy knitted vest worn over an elegant dress. All perfectly executed, in beautiful colors like brown, beige, orange and ocher yellow. There were also some architectural prints used on tops. It made you definitely hungry for more fashion that seems to come straight out of this era.