Caribbean Fashion Spot Catwalk Fashion Show SS16

“Keep calm and be Caribbean.” That’s how not to loose your head in the fashion madness, because there is quite some to worry about when it’s your first time to show on the Amsterdam Catwalk. “I’m so glad you didn’t fell when you turned around in those high heels”, Ms. Ray sighs from relieve afterwards. She’s one of the six designer labels of the Caribbean Fashion Spot Catwalk that was featured earlier today: Atelier Doré (Suriname), Beatriz Rodriguez (Puerto Rico), Charu Lochan Dass (Trinidad & Tobago), Gigliola Designs (Aruba), Heather Jones International (Trinidad & Tobago). They aim to provide women of today in the Caribbean with updates about the latest fashion. “They are not only beautiful, but they are all amazing young women that are working hard on their dreams! Diversity always rules and includes”, they announced a few days ago on their Facebookpage.

And yes, we spotted a lot of beautiful young women. And yes, there was quite some diversity on the catwalk as well. Starting out with Atelier Doré showing enormous silver and gemstone jewellery, featuring the tropical nature of Surinam. What followed next seemed to be the Miss Caribbean contest where there was no room for unpretentiousness. Cause if we can learn one thing from those ladies: if you have it, flaunt it baby. There was an overflow of long maxi-dresses, some off-shoulder others with a deep cut v-neck. Lots of ruffles, dainty lines, sequins and subtile shimmers. We counted several jumpsuits, some see-through or with high slits on the side and an open back. The flowy materials made it sometimes hard to see whether it was a dress or jumpsuit. Of course there’s no tropical fever without a bold colour scheme, so we got bombarded with bold pink, red, aubergine, yellow, green, blue and white.

This was not a show to give you an update on what to wear next season or how to be on trend. Although, we spotted one translucent white lace dress that could be perfect material for the ‘the rise and rise of naked dressing’ trend (how to look good naked without really being naked) as lately seen on Beyoncé, J.Lo and Kim Kardashian. Women with flaunting as their middle name. But no, this show was rather one to celebrate fashion and fun. Perhaps all those flower prints could cause some pollination of this cheerful Caribbean fever in our Dutch audience, so we can also keep it cool during these hot summer days.

Jonathan Christopher Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

You wouldn’t think Jonathan made his AFW-debut only a year ago. The Dutch designer from Rotterdam has made a huge leap forwards by winning the Global Denim Award and he has been nominated for the renowned Woolmark Prize, the global search for the world’s best emerging design talent, that will be handed out in Antwerp this monday. “This collection is peanuts when I compare it to monday’s happening. I’m so nervous!” And he has all the right to be so. If he wins this prize, he’s following in the footsteps of big names like Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent.

But this evening it was all about his summer collection. Though the sounds of heavy rain and thunderstorms and the backdrop (with dark shadows, fires and a desolated desert) made us a little frightful, Jonathan had a positive message to announce to us all. “Even the most dark and destructive moments have something positive in them. It means a new beginning. A fire, which is presented by the red tones in this collection, also represents new possibilities. New things can be born. I’ve known some new beginnings myself too, because winning the Global Denim Award got me more involved with this ancient fabric and I started experimenting with new techniques and styles, such as scratch ‘n jean(as if the denim got scratched off).” It’s the perfect example of the juxtapositions in life to which the designer is drawn: masculine and feminine, light and dark, soft and harsh. Fragility yet strength is referenced using delicate romantic draping and fabrics against a hard shell of tailoring.

But he not only experimented with lots of denim, he also showed some new silhouettes, such as the kimono (Asian influences) and flared trousers with slits on the side. And what about the trousers that had one skinny and one flared leg? Pretty unusual and progressive for a Dutch designer. Luckily there was also still plenty of room for his well-praised modern and clean silhouettes, which makes it yet another successful collection for him. And for others, as we firmly believe his new designs will be hanging in a lot of male wardrobes next summer.

Amsterdam Fashion Week Amsterdam SS16 Streetwear Day 2

What are they wearing during the Amsterdam Fashion Week? A Bas Kosters dress, this seasons Spijkers en Spijkers summer suit or an asymmetric Tony Cohen  trench? We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy (Dutch) fashion and your own personal style.

MAYN Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

The wave of Dutch menswear is getting stronger every year. Tonight another name came to the surface: MAYN. This Amsterdam based menswear brand was founded in 2014 by the award-winning Croatian-born designer Maja Podrug. She launched her first unisex collection for Spring Summer 2013 and her first menswear collection for Autumn Winter 2014 at Cro-A-Porter in Zagreb. Before studying fashion design Maja graduated in Art History. Exploration of sculptural and architectural formative principles is often at the core of MAYN’s designs resulting in innovative cuts and adaptive features.

And that’s exactly what she showed this afternoon, with her collection called Flow. It was inspired by Yuanyang Rice Terraces -hybrid landscapes that represent resolution between working man. It was translated into continuous and organic curve, soft lines and otoshiana pattern-cutting technique and details. It’s minimalistic pallet of blacks, whites and dark navel color-blocking was based on the work of surrealist German-French artist, painter and poet Jean Arp. Garments also took references from villagers minimalistic work wear in terms of casual widths and longer lengths, a high number of slits and compartments, adaptive details and use of waterproof materials and rubber coating, giving it an urban outdoor feel.

The minimal but functional collection gives the wearer extra layer of confidence for sure and seems perfect for our Dutch modern day city dweller that has to deal with constant shifts between casual and business, but especially the hot temperatures and heavy rain showers that we have to deal with every summer.

Nikki Duijst wins Lichting 2015

Nikki Duijst is the winner of Lichting 2015 supported by V&D. During a spectacular fashion show 14 graduates presented their graduation collection to an audience of national and international fashion professionals. They voted Nikki as the upcoming fashion design talent of Dutch fashion. She received the V&D Talent award and a money prize of 10.000 euro which she can invest in the development of her work. During the show Nikki presented five looks out her graduation collection named As we seek our face. A collection with which she investigated her personal fear of being in the spotlights versus the pressure of social media to promote yourself as a unique, outstanding character. Anonymity, femininity, covering up and exposing were the focus points in the collection full of long, lean, striped and beautifully colored creations.

Tony Cohen Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

It was back to square one for Tony Cohen and his SS2016 collection, which will be sold in Paris from September on. Moving forward and back at the same time… Tony went back to his core, the core of his firm but also the core of his designs. Remarkable was the slight change in silhouette as Tony Cohen appeared to have used more square shapes and straightened things up, both in the designs of his clothes and accessories. His color palette of choice existed of exquisite shades of black, white, gold, cream and green, combined with embroidery graphic prints inspired. Outfits balanced between handcrafted, detailed looks and clean, abstract designs, created for men and women who dare to show their true selves to the world. And dressed in one of these fashion numbers, any man or woman deserves to be seen.

P.S. Tony Cohen’s line 2LOVETONYCOHEN will from now on be named TONYCOHEN and will thus be part of the main, luxury line.

Zyanya Keizer Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

A runway floor covered with flower welcomed us at Zyanya Keizer’s couture show today. The backdrop for the presentation of her Haven collection, inspired by albinism in Africa. Gorgeous, light, handcrafted designs set the perfect mood for a feminine and fragile spectacle. Structured shapes, high collars and elegant cut outs created strong sophisticated looks. As silk, raffia and special bead techniques added delicacy. A rich collection both timeless and modern with couture pieces that will make heads turn anywhere they’re worn and simply deserve all the attention.

Army of Me Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

When Daniel Wahlberg and Richard Sjöblom from Stockholm started their own fashion brand Army of Me back in 2008 their mission was clear and simple; bringing something different to the fashion table. Combining classic designs from the west with avant garde fashion from the east’, has been the label’s motto ever since. At today’s show the two bearded designers didn’t fail to deliver. An exotic army of tough and toned models rocking black leather boots (or just sandals finished with heavy black duck tape all around when they ran out of boots?) and futuristic sunglasses strutted the afternoon runway show wearing anything but typical Dutch menswear. Long tops (fully buttoned shirts, slightly sheer tanktops, denim zipped jackets, cardigans and leather jackets) and a monochrome color palette seemed to be their winning formula. Black eye make-up, harnesses and leather gloves added to the toughness of the models as the designerduo left no chance untapped to focus on the models’ physique. Completely in style, dressed like their brand’s ideal customers, they took their bow.

Noir Near Future Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

Fantasies of anxiety, Noir Near Future’s SS16 collection, started off very solid. Models with tight braided hairdos and silver lines on their faces appeared wearing either black dresses or black leggings with dito T-shirts, United Nude shoes to match. ‘Anxiety’ was printed on their outfits and backpacks, as well as (what appeared to be) frequency graphics. Disturbed and pixilated black and white prints.
Halfway through the show designer Bregje Cox changed things up. Outfits became light, airy and colorful prints (with exotic color combinations the brand is always looking for) were introduced. Dazzling graphics, mesmerizing stripes and mirror pieces attached to tops and dresses added to the fantasy effect of this summer collection. A collection based on the reflection of feelings of fear one can have when going through a creative process. Bregje Cox was inspired by the book ‘Het begrip angst’ van Kierkegaard, which asks the question if a generation can learn and love and copy feelings of patience and fear from previous generations or each invididual should learn this himself. No doubt NNF is heavily inspired by technology and science fiction. We’re anxious to see what’s next.

Disturbed and pixilated black and white prints.

Recap Amsterdam Fashion Week Day 1

Amsterdam Fashion Week´s catwalk schedule has kicked off with a splendid openings night. Let´s look back and recap some of the highlights of the first day of Amsterdam Fashion Week SS16.

 

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