Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam Claes Iversen FW2012

After a few super feminine, glamorous collections designer Claes Iversen decided to opt for a slightly darker, tougher fall winter feeling. In de Oude Kerk in the city center of Amsterdam, yet another great and unique show area picked by the Danish designer, he presented his new range of clothes he has worked on for the last six months.

Inspired by a tea cup turned upside down Claes came up with beautifully shaped dresses and coats. They portrayed feminine silhouettes in contrast with lots of volume at the upper body.

More contrast came in the dynamic between masculinity and femininity, gorgeous highly embroidered, items versus minimalistic pieces and dark shades like burgundy, deep green and black combined with light, fresh tones like orange, white and mint.

Still the overall dark feeling came through in every single look, emphasized by the models’ dark lips, their hair in their faces and long, black leather gloves. It felt kind of Gothic (good match with the show location), yet Claes managed to still keep it beautiful.

He surprised us by presenting a white smoking as a wedding‘dress’ and a suit jacket as an evening gown. He woke us up by showing something different than just beautiful and feminine. Yet he stayed true to his detailed craftsmanship and his excellent taste. Hats off for Claes for taking a risk, but not taking it too far.

www.claesiversen.com

Round Up Paris Womenswear FW2012

We have seen some supreme tailoring in Paris, resulting in sensual rounded shapes, exaggerated and challenging proportions and exciting fabrics. The world is clearly connected and the runways as well. Power looks, sculptured contours and very literary historical references were all over the place. Where we first spotted a hint of powder pink romance this was too scarce to be labelled a strong influence. The general feeling of tough powerplay and getting ready to withstand challenging times is ruling. Executed in a careful play with the existing parameters of couture, yet tailored with the contemporary flavor for bold statements. Think big.

It was not just the silhouette that takes on new dimensions this season; there is also the stage. Vuitton and Chanel confirm the feel for drama, stage setting and grand gestures. Catwalks became movie-sets, the models actors and the garments costumes. To quote one of the grand old NY ladies in the wonderful upcoming documentary: ‘Advanced Style’. ‘I dress up everyday for the theatre of my life’. That reflects clearly the attitude of women who opt for the most eccentric looks that where shown in Paris past week. These represent the icing on a cake that tasted very well, but were confirming the fact that the flavors of cakes today are not regionally bound any more. Globalization is a fact in fashion.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

FIERCE

Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent staged fierce and perseverance. Ferocious, brave and powerful women with a provocative attitude. Forceful shades as black and red gain power by leather sheen, high polish and slick coatings.

 

SCI FI

Balenciaga and Chanel teamed up showing challenging material with a science fiction character. Priestesses of techno cult in bonded materials, plastics, liquid films and technical coatings and foils.

 

SCULPTURE

Lanvin was the master of sculpture. An expression of exalted womanliness with a generous emphasis on the curve. Comme des Garçons took it to an extreme by showing models as paper cut dolls and labeling these as ‘the future in two dimensions’.  The exaggeration of shape, the bringing back contours to the explicit essence, seems key.

 

HISTORY

Louis Vuitton takes us back in the old days by showing series of costume outfits that stand out by their absolute supreme elaboration and embellishment. Making history relevant once more by showing truly innovative skills and craftsmanship in embellishment, scattering crystals generously.

 

ORIENT

Style.com claims that Haider Ackermann has the most sophisticated color sense of anyone in Paris and we just want to confirm this. He seems to reflect on the orient; the passionate shades of the east in subtle monochrome harmonies are stunning and truly inspiring. This combined with the intricate and elaborate patterns Dries van Noten showed are great inspirations for garments that will please the crowd.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2012 Day 8

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Miu Miu-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. This is our last post for now, until new events show up. Thank you all for posing and watching this season, you’ve been a wonderful audience!

Miu Miu Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

It’s been a while since Miucca Prada wove a common thread between her two lines, Miu Miu and Prada. But pantsuits are the only thing exciting to her after so many years of skirts and dresses, she explained to the press. And her pantsuits are still not ordinary. The Miu Miu clothes looked mannish and leisurely in a retro way. Jackets and matching ankle-length pants had roomy cuts, and were worn with buttoned-up blouses, scarves and ruffled, wide ties, all done in clashing patterns and color combinations.

Elie Saab Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

With his collection Urban Elegance designer Elie Saab brought Paris Fashion Week to a closure. Models sporting blunt bangs indeed looked more urban than we’re used to from the designer wearing asphalt shaded skirts and peplum tops. Fur coats were tossed over sexy dresses. High waisted black pants and sheer blouses formed the chicest combinations as tight dresses beautifully accentuated all that’s feminine. We could picture almost every outfit in a classy business meeting, a corporate presentation or a company’s cocktail. But of course it wasn’t all business and it wouldn’t be a complete Elie Saab collection without a stunning finale of floor sweeping Oscar-worthy gowns. They came in sparkling green, sequined silver and embellished gold. They had low V-necks and high slits, but stayed classy, A-list classy that is.

 

 

 

First View Paris Womenswear FW2012: Hard & Slick

One more spot on power and hard-edge construction. Just to express the importance of this influence. Not to be pampered and cuddled in crisis. Women stand up and seem ready to fight. That is at least what designers suggest. Ready to march the battlefields. Dominatrix and fetishist and at the same time precious, upscale, ultra feminine and glamorous. From wasp-waisted x-shapes to rounded cape like sculptural silhouettes. Satin sheen, polished high gloss as well as slick. In leather, lacquer, chain mail and bonded satins. Metal, fur and rubber details. Creating looks with an almost sacral seriousness. Strict and severe and addressing the archetypal human need for religion as Gareth Pugh stated.

Monumental shaping is perfectly executed by Yves Saint Laurent, heavenly tailored by Viktor & Rolf, futuristic textured by Laurent, and it is hard to figure out if the look of Givenchy is monastic or vampire. It is an expression of utmost luxury.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

All aboard for the 10 o’clock LV train!

If you thought a Louis Vuitton show couldn’t get better after last seasons merry go round, you’re mistaken. This morning Marc Jacobs topped that performance off by sending out an enormous train on his Paris catwalk. By doing so he made sure – combined with yesterday’s Chanel crystals– Paris Fashion Week (and actually a whole fashion season) ended quite spectacular.

Jacobs even stepped away from his no celebs policy and invited stars like Catherine Deneuve and Sarah Jessica Parker to watch his show, held in a train station.

As the smoke of the train dissapeared elegant women accompanied by porters who carried their many bags stepped out of the Louis Vuitton train, which seemed to come straight from another era. They wore woolen a-line coats over skirts, over pants. The new type or layering already presented to us at Chanel yesterday. They looked extremely tall (thanks to a little help from Stephen Jones). The new silhouette made them look extra feminine. And shiny embroideries combined with kaleidoscopic applications turned otherwise simple outfits into jaw dropping pieces.

It was not the most modern collection, but it had the right kind of classic touch for todays Louis Vuitton women. And just in case after this show you haven’t had enough yet of the French fashion brand you can visit the exhibition Louis Vuitton – Marc Jacobs (opening tonight) and dig a little further into the Louis Vuitton history.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2012 Day 7

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Miu Miu-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

Alexander McQueen Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Futurism with softness, looking forward in a positive way. That was what designer Sarah Burton had in mind by creating her fall collection for Alexander McQueen. Burton presented it in a collection that was about lightness wit a core of power: futuristic princesses in “exploded” silhouettes in pristine white or enormous froths of pink feathers, their faces behind sleek visors. This was a story like only the McQueen house can tell and present, it left the commercial collection in the showroom. But that collection will for sure have connections with the show-pieces – same colors, same perfection and elegance.

 

Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Folk seemed to be the theme of the Valentino-collection, but we couldn’t tell that from the clothes. Or is must have been the dresses with native motifs that reminded of Greece, Russia or the Orient. But the black leather that opened the show, told a different story.  All in all it was a smooth, feminine collection with the familiar dresses and jumpsuits, softened with macramé seams and passementerie details.

The focus was at day-wear  with smart-looking frog-closure coats and Aran sweaters dotted here and there with crystals. For evening there were long, loose-fitting shorts in black leather with a tunic and an embroidered velvet vest—black tie, but with a modern touch.

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