Dennis Diem Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

A fully packed Gashouder is waiting for designer Dennis Diem to start his show. Also the big fashion journalists are present, gathering in the front row. All iPhones held in line to capture the perfect opening shot as soon as the lights switch off. The excitement for the ‘Sweet Rebel’ show is tangible. And who doesn’t want to be part of a romantic fifties movie scene, but in real life? A show that takes you back to the set of cult-film Cry Baby (1990, John Waters). Don’t we all dig the famous love stories about the good girl falling for the bad guy? And good she was, oh la la. The collection was sugarcoated with pastel colours, ruffles, petticoats, silk, organza, tulle, jacquards, lace and cashmere. Not to mention his hand-made bodices. It felt like we were attending high school prom, waiting (and shivering) for our big crush to come pick us up on his motorcycle.

“I’ve never seen such a proper show from Dennis”, someone in the audience recalls. Probably not knowing what was about to come. Because our high school crush a.k.a. The Ladykiller arrived on an actual (!) motor vehicle, and it immediately changed everything into a good girl gone bad vibe (where’s RiRi when you need her). Dennis Diem collaborated with designer Jos Jacob, who’s work is known for leather, bondage and beauty in the imperfection. Leather bathing suits, platform shoes as high as the Eiffel Tower and fishnet pantyhose with a skull hiding your most precious parts. It felt like 50 shades meets 50s romance, talking of a extreme clash. “I met him in the candy store”, the music plays along. Wouldn’t that make love so much easier than it is today? Let’s forget about online dating, delete Tinder or Happn, and channel your inner sweet rebel. Because this is the real deal, and we would die for a ride on that motor vehicle.

Esmay Hijmans + TRINHBECX LAB Fashion Week Amsterdam SS2017

What happens in room 237, doesn’t stay in room 237. Cause we were all invited tonight, by designer Esmay Hijmans (started as intern at Mattijs van Bergen). Her newest collection is based on the movie The Shining and happening in a dark surreal world where night creatures come alive. What happens between dream and reality? ‘The dark night of the soul is a journey into the light, where she becomes a tender dreamer with an artistic freedom.’ This collection was inspired by fashion photographer Guy Bourdin’s seventies inspired dark glamour. Which means a lot of black, black and black. Feminine womenswear and comfy couture with a bedroom/evening dressing feel to it. We saw some white silky jumpsuits, silk trousers, narrow tops with flared sleeves and lingerie inspired finishing touches like embroidered moths, butterflies, flowers, beads and sequins. And who’s daring enough to wear the black bra with off-shoulder flowy sleeves attached to it?

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The label started by Tung Trinh en Tim Becx, both coming from ArtEZ Hogeschool van de Kunsten Arnhem, first participated in the Global Denim Awards before entering the actual fashion arena here in Amsterdam. This saturday they showed their SS17 collection called ‘Drift’, named after the 1960’s sculptures of British artist Philip King. A big pink paper roll covered the runway, creating a colourful backdrop. And it got even more exciting from the bubbly music beat from Jessy Lanza’s ‘It means I love you’. It was a perfect match with a collection that was all about the sensual balance between masculinity and femininity. Cause where is the border? You probably won’t find the solid answer here on the catwalk, neither do you find it somewhere else, cause it’s all up to you. You decide. But these two young designers will definitely help you shaping your thoughts on this matter, by using heavy shapes, straightforward and oversized silhouettes, extravagant fabrics and quirky volumes that emphasize or negate the conventional ideal of the body. Time to reconsider the definition of male and female. Men wearing a pink patent leather trench, why not? A woman showing off her boxer over her sagging pants? Sure do. And we couldn’t keep our eyes of the ankle length black coat with slits so high up you may want to train your bum a little bit more next time you hit the gym.

Futura Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

It’s the invitation that gives you the first clue of a show. Same goes for the venue. Especially the venue, as it is the white canvas for your work of art. In the case of Futura it was a little bit bigger than last time, cause for the first time designers Anne Bosman en Sanne Schepers got to show in the Gashouder (not Fashion Lab). And they did so in a pitch black and ominous environment. People standing in the twilight somewhere on the bleaches, holding enormous black flags, like a big (fashion)riot was about to start. Was it? The pumping music wasn’t any prove of the contrary. And when the lights dimmed, an army of men (and a few women) showed up in the dark. Only their silhouettes sparkling in the small string of light, but it was enough to tell they were ready to take on the catwalk. Which they did in their familiair workwear with a minimal look and slightly futuristic edge. Sartorial tradition meets a mix of contemporary details. Cropped hemlines, layering, boxy jackets on slightly baggy trousers and sturdy fabrics. The minimal suit was worked up in different shades of blue and greenish (which worked so well!) and a little bit of playful patchwork to keep their signature feeling. They also underlined the backpack revolution that has been happening for a while now, a good addition to the cool and urban feel of the collection. If this represents the modern day (wo)man, it looks pretty damn good.

Miriam Reikerstorfer + Elke van Zuylen LAB Fashion Week Amsterdam SS2017

Funny how we can ignore such a big and influential thing like our subconscious. It was the key to the new collection of Austrian born designer Miriam Reikerstorfer. “This particular collection is inspired by suppressed feelings and fears. The subconscious influences our daily decisions, even if we don’t realize it. It is the part of our psyche that is just below the conscious mind and is capable of jumping to the forefront at any time. On a daily basis, people suppress their feelings, dreams, and fears, as well as their sexual desire, I believe it is an endless pool of inspiration.”

Are we afraid? Is there not enough awareness? Why not see the beauty in it and see what it can teach us. Let’s make the dark light again, and the bad good. The contradiction is very obvious in the soft versus hard elements. Tender fabrics with hand-dyed details and delicate drapery. Hand-sewn sequins and hand-cut pieces, references to Miriam’s believe in the old traditions of haute couture. The harsher elements were seen for example in the cornrow-hair, straight trousers and the top with huge hoodie (it might become a favourite for Dutch songstress Kovacs). The bright pink mixed so well with the taupe and dark (red) hues. ‘Things I get obsessed about’, the music echoes over the venue. Oh yes, there are definitely some things in this collection we can obsess about.

Elke van Zuylen
The second part of the show was for Elke van Zuylen to show her new collection named ‘NoNoCake’. Another show that was about emotions, to be more precise: shyness. She calls it the ‘The Shy-Movement’. Why? Perhaps she’s tired of people putting themselves out there all the time, feeling like the centre of the universe. Always online, always present. And more or less we all suffer from FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out). Extravert people are celebrated, introverts are considered less fun and exciting. But is it? According to Elke there’s more to shy people than meets the eye. ‘Stille wateren hebben diepe gronden’, as we like to call it in Holland. Take this and her fascination for Japanese and Korean (sub)cultures, and we’re talking the core of this collection. It showed in the pom pom hair of the models, the komono-ish jackets, soft and silky pyjama fabrics and other geisha and Harajuku references. Interesting was the layering part, such as a white see-through bralette sewed on a maxi-dress or a XL tulle skirt worn underneath a night blue velvet tunic. If this resembles shyness, there’s nothing to be ashamed of.

Aziz Bekkaoui Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

“There will be a surprising guest-model walking down the runway tonight”, Dutch tv-host and male model Dirk Taat revealed a few minutes before show time. That already started many rumours about the opening show of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam. And it was up to artist and designer Aziz Bekkaoui, who has his roots in Morocco, to warm up the fashion audience. And it seemed to be the follow-up of his last season show. While his fall collection was all about love, named United Hearts Now, this time it was about United Origins. His aim was to redefine everyday lines, squares, colours and symbols that have been around us for ages, surrounding us in the streets and in the media. Sometimes it’s good to look at regular things from a different angle, change your perception and see it in a new and refreshing daylight, considering them more than just a colour or solid constitution. The result was a clean graphic pallet of black, white, red and blue held together by golden cement. In some outfits a bold orange caught our eye, in others the British flag peeped out, perhaps the epitome of his message. Some outfits looked modernly clean, others were richer, more accessorised or slightly preppy. Oh and not to mention those white sneakers. Any guy who wouldn’t want to wear those crispy whites during summer time? We kept on flipping the pages in our ‘How to Stay Cool During the Summer’ guide, which was underlined by Amy Winehouse’s Back to Black and an upbeat Dutch hip hop finale song, which was a direct link to that mysterious guest on the runway, Dutch rapper Yes-R. One thing’s for sure; Aziz gives you a one way ticket to a cool urban attitude.

Individuals Amsterdam Catwalk Fashion Show SS2013

Should we cover our ears? The Individuals fashion show started with extremely loud and incredibly dark music and looks in shades of broken asphalt to match. Tough models wore ethnic inspired looks that breathed progress, strength and necessity; the three themes of the collection, which was actually a squeal to the previous Individuals collection of last season.

They wore grungy over-accessorized looks with lots of black leather. Corset-like tops, baseball jackets and large hoodies were all in the asymmetrical, layered streetwear mix.

After all the darkness, a touch of primal / fuchsia was added to the collection as the music got a little more pleasant to listen to. Then fuchsia changed into deep shades of sand and beige only to end in a series of full bone white looks. Every outfit was richly styled; golden headpieces, scarves wrapped around the models heads, messy, braided hairstyles and eye-catching bangles were all in the mix.

After some ethnic drums and the sound of birds it became completely silent and light on the catwalk as all looks a appeared on the runway once again. Leave out the heavy accessories and the sky-high shoes and you’ve got yourself a selection of very wearable streetwise clothes. A few of the TPS team-members have even already prepared their Individuals wishlist!