Blumarine Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Just as Eastern inspired collection themes seem to be fading away, Anna Molinari came up with an Asian inspired collection this morning. She sent her models out on the runway sporting, shiny satin creations, with eastern inspired floral prints and kimono sleeves. Not only was the satin shiny, the designer played with metallics, glitter, sequins and smashing leather too. Heavy leather and fur were in the mix with sheer tulle and lace, hardly ever covering up the models well enough for the winter season. But then again these looks aren’t meant for everyday wear. They were created to make heads turn and yaws drop. Like the finale of evening wear, containing both shiny tuxedos and sequined party dresses.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Apart from an all red look and a selection of full on purple ensembles Costume National told a true monochrome story today. Fresh faced models (hardly any make-up, hair undone; the kind of streetstyle coolness we know from most French editors) worked the modern, cool f/w2014 collection, which formed the ultimate mix of menswear inspired creations (pinstripes, boxy fits, large collars and suits) and elegant feminine designs (sexy dresses, sheer blouses and lots of (faux?) fur. Like the first crispy white look with a pair of loose fitting pants, brogue shoes and a winter proof fur waistcoat, worn carelessly, hands in the pockets. Followed by a more sexy attire, short dress, bare legs, high heels. A few navy & black designs were less impressive, but other than that, f/w 2014 just felt right. The CN woman is not trying to hard to fit in. She’s not desperate to look sexy or desirable. And she doesn’t dress the way she dresses for anyone else but herself. That’s why the CN woman, or girl if you will, is so damn hot. Yes, especially in that tux-inspired black suit at the end.

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Cara Delevingne dressed in a chic black hooded coat with faux fur detailing carrying a tiny faux fur Lagerfeld doll (the latest it-accessory?) was the first look of today’s Fendi show. What followed were lots of beautiful coats, dresses and jackets created out of a mix of fabrics (very Fendi). Wool, velvet, neoprene, mesh parts and faux fur details in all the right places filled the Italian fashion house’s fall/winter presentation. There was a focus on coats, jackets and (skater) skirts and the whole collection had a very sporty vibe. Coats got bomber jacket collars, designs had all kinds of neoprene and mesh parts and those leather boots had a definite sneaker appeal. Apart from the company’s great leather bags and few orange shaded sunglasses and that one particular doll, orchids pinned onto the fur coats (inspired by Billie Holiday’s song “Violets for Your Furs,” Lagerfeld thought of the tradition that dictated a woman’s husband or lover would pin her with a floral corsage as she set off cross-country by train, which led to travel being the theme of his new Fendi collection) formed the ultimate f/w2014 accessory. All of this was filmed by drones (flying technology objects with tiny camera’s that provide a 360 degree view) and broadcasted live on the Fendi website. Now that’s even better than a front row seat!

 

 

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Inspired by Scotland Max Mara came up with a luxurious collection this week. Full of rich materials with lots of texture the brand focused on it’s strongest asset; outerwear. With a wide range of classy coats (from woolen and tweed to quilted and leather) to choose from, the Max Mara women won’t be cold next winter. They were worn with pencil skirts (over the knee, mid calf), paired with sleeveless woolen tops, designs with PVC details and crocodile printed gold creations (even shoes!). Not tucked in, but worn to their full length, far below the waist. The designs may have been classic; the careless appeal of the models (hair undone, hardly any make-up, yet bright red lips) made them look young and fresh. As fresh as the collection’s lichen green, which already has us in deep thoughts figuring out with what tone to match it.

Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

It was clear that Alberta Ferretti got her inspiration from the woods and birds. The result was far from magcical and arty, it got a depth and sobriety via heavy textures and embellishments. Feathers were a key component of the collection — as a print; as an illusory mélange of pleated ribbon; and as a real detail.
Ferretti also played up decorative elements such as sequins, feathers, flower appliqués and ribbons. Her palette contained the colors of fall, green on the point of turning to orange, or peculiar leaf-mold tones. The textures followed suit — fabric technology duplicated tree bark, a nubby autumnal tweed was shot through with gold.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

It was a smart Gucci-collection Frida Giannini presented at the start of Milan Fashion Week. Plain and simple, functional chic with a dash of glamor. The FW14 collection seems rooted in sportswear infused with a Sixties vibe: crisp, precise shapes softened with a palette of pastels — pinks and beiges; dusty blues and greens. The tailoring for jackets and pants were lean and mannish.
Dresses and belted coats retained the clean shapes while expressing the more feminine side of the Gucci range.

For evening Giannini offered a series of short, structured dresses including several in leather their bodices decorated with bold encrustations of crystals.

First View New York Womenswear FW2014: Stillness

Stillness and quietude might be the one true luxury. We spot gorgeous drapes and wraps and composed kimono volumes. The absence of detail exposes the best in materials. Square cut nearly monumental silhouettes gain feminine spree through the drape quality of compact and chunky yet gorgeously supple wovens. Subtle surfaces where brush effects, felted looks and heather aspects add liveliness and a natural appeal.

BCBG Max Azria takes advantage of the endless layering opportunities that fall permits. The Row shows a range that is quietly spectacular made with 900-gram double-face cashmere. From soft and fluffy to a tranquil sculptural quality. Michael Kors plays with proportions and adds a firm grip to the choice of materials where Wang for Hugo Boss exercises his tailoring qualities with strong rigueur.

Once more the quality of cut and drape defined by the exceptional characteristics of the materials.

Stijlspot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First View New York Womenswear FW2014: Cocooning

No one could anticipate the Polar Vortex but still the supersize hand-knit sweaters are warm and prodigious as were so many silhouettes this season. Chunky shearlings, and curly bold sweaters are round and sheltering above flapping skirt layers and drapy pants. Super lush and luxurious materials flourish best in simple understated shapes. Roomy and relaxed like comforting cocoons.
Michael Kors shows masterful shag furs, chunky cardigans and deluxe cashmere sweats on A-line skirts. The Row luxury wraps as cowl-neck cashmere sweaters and matching asymmetric hand-knit skirts. Love for comfort, exquisite materials and a soothing calmness and ease drives this look.
Marc Jacobs dyed his shearlings in sunset hues. Light and calm, a cosmetic neutral palette and a play on pastels like the fabrics had undergone a beauty treatment.
Inspired by the cosmetics of animal skins rather then ours.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View New York Womenswear FW2014: Body Heat

 

Heating up the body was not the only reason to source for warming spice shades, bundles of Mongolian lamb, cashmere wraps and joyful faux fur. Where fashion increasingly tends to blend seasons, designers of today adore the extremes of winterly wild textures, fluffy organics and the voluminous sculptural aspects of pile surfaces, brushed hairy woolens and fizzy fringe.

Prabal Gurung wraps pashminas high around the neck, collaging cashmere throws, woven knits and tribal trims in yellow, rust and orange. And that all in one outfit. Crimson and ginger for meditative drapes inspired by native Nepal, his homeland.

Custo confirms the love for pattern. Showing clashing prints, plays with textures and lots of faux furs. Altazurra adds fire to tapestry pieces, beautifully artful flourishes, inspired by textile artist Sheila Hicks.

Let’s hope the high streets tap into this superb inspiration.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Proenza Schouler Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

The designers of Proenza Schouler wanted a collection full with energy, creativity and life. And so they did. Of course not without their focus on fabric. Graphic combinations of black paired with orange, purple, turquoise, crimson and pink converged in patterns reminiscent of vinyl records and the Flintstones. These came mashed up on sporty separates and single garments, such as precise patchworks of leather and crepe on dresses. There were also technical lace and flock prints embroidered with bugle beads.
The fabric finish was flat, matte, almost scubalike and accentuated by architectural curves: a nipped waist and sleeves that were big at the shoulder tapered toward the wrist.

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