Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Again the Balenciaga-collection was full of modern, surprising fabrics, silhouettes and clothes.

The punk spirit of last season seems gone but is replaced by a softer, more feminine theme. Soft, draped longer length skirts, knitted leather, tunics worn over pants, skinny pants with zippers at the back of the legs, soft oversized coats and comfy sweaters made a gentle look. Of course there we graphic colorblocking elements in the collection, andbesides black, white and gray Ghesquiere used orange, blue, brown and green.

Thierry Mugler Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The show of Thierry Mugler was the talk of the day, yesterday. Not only because it was Nicola Formichetti his first womenswear-collection for the house – but because Lady Gaga would also be part of the show. It’s great when a designer is supported by a star, but it also distracts you from the clothes that are actually shown. And that’s a pity. Formichetti designs for the stage, like Mugler himself used to do. These are extraordinairy clothes for extraordinairy women – popstars, clubgirls and stylists who can use some outrageous clothes.

The collection was mostly in black, white, pale beige and Mugler’s royal blue, and there were some molded plastic show pieces, as well as animal prints. The silhouette was minimal, with close-fitting dresses that sometimes looked like a second skin. I heard Lady Gaga already ordered some pieces. No wonder.

Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Gareth Pugh was back this season with a good old fashion-show. And his language didn’t change much really: black is still his friend and gothic is one of his favorite sources. But he also embraced fluidity and color.

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Rochas’ fall collection is Marco Zanini’s definition of chic. He reconnected with his Swedish roots with charming results. The outcome became a refresher course on fashion classics. There were the boxy kick-pleat skirts and Shetland wool sweaters, oversized coats in felted wool and swingy jackets, paired with leggings or capri pants. Elements of  tailoring were sprinkled throughout, including some  blazers with hefty shoulder pads. For night, Zanini took a  turn showing black brocade cocktail dresses with exposed zippers.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Dries van Noten presented a beautiful, restraint collection, mainly in black, white and camel with flashes of color and exciting prints. He got inspired by David Bowie and the Ballets Russes and translated that into a romantic collage of print, color and textures. And it was ultrachic. Lond coats over pants, golden skirts with black sweaters and dresses cut with intense yet visually discreet asymmetry.

Josephus Thimister Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Again Dutch designer Jospehus Thimister tried to make a comeback, after the presentation of his haute couture-collection a year ago. Hopefully he will last longer now. Thimister started his show with total black and total white outfits – suits, dresses, jumpsuits – loose, draped, for men and women. The most interesting part though was the second half of the show, where Thimister used his obsession for fabrics to present rough, tough knits and garments made of hairy felt and skin in white and grey tones.

Bonjour Paris!

Today we start with our postst about Paris Fashion Week. Our team arrived yesterday. Of course we’ll try to inform you as fast as possible. Look out for pictures of Mugler, Dries van Noten and Rochas today.

Round Up Milan FW2011

All lovely femininity and seduction is what we perceived past week in Milan. This is definitely part of the Milan signature. Here are some linking influences to round up Milan: a shared sense of nostalgia, amazing fabrics (it’s all in the mix) and exiting colour schemes.

Gucci and Prada put a big mark on this Milan season. They are the runners up in the 5 influences we like to quote.

SIXTIES Prada moved us towards the 60s and 70s, some literary references like dropped waists with big, low-slung belts and chunky buttons. But most of all innovative and refreshing.

GLAM: Gucci reinforces the 20’s, 30’s feel, which was already strong in NY, and this was done masterful in an amazing mix of saturated shades, topped with lush fur and loads of feminine flair.

SOFT COLOUR: a statement made by Missoni, new hues which will surely be of influence in the near fashion future.

MASCULINE/FEMININE: Ferragamo played the masculine against the feminine wonderfully and we’ve seen more of these androgynous twists at Dolce & Gabana, Dsquared² and Sportmax.

SHINE: when it came to all the shiny surface effects, another BIG issue, Etro, the master of print, was one of the many designers who showed these artfully.

One last remark! Long lengths, extremely long, but still (we didn’t count) we’re sure Milan showed more knee then NY. We guess since most designers are referencing towards a more recent era.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.

First View Milan FW2011: More Lace

There’s more lace to come from Milan! We spotted it in New York and London and got it confirmed now in Milan. Lace is a red thread linking collections, looks and styles.From cobwebby, embroidered, chunky to featherweight. Plasticized, coated, printed and sequined. From antique to high tech and modernistic.

In Milan, it was most of all used the authentic way. Pretty and lady like, refined Chantilly lace.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Milan FW2011: Soft Color

The soft colors that popped up in Milan are definitely an opening towards a new spirit.

A fresh palette launched by Bottega Veneta, Missoni and Etro. Pale precious pastels. Not just soft in shades, also dimensional peach-touch fabrics with lots of knots, curls and pile. Candy coloured yet not that sweet, the unusual fabrics and wild combinations give this look a daring twist that makes us curious to see more of it next season.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

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