Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

The fall collection of Philosophy di Alberta Ferreti was an ode to the young professional which resulted in  a strong collection of polished, professional clothes, layered with feminine, modern touches. Crisp white power suits cinched at the waist, formfitting white dresses in a slightly stricter silhouette and chic coats. That, along with several other pieces, were perfectly suited for a boardroom meeting. For high-glamour moments, she suggested several metallic and PVC dresses.

Preen Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi were inspired by Beatrix Potter’s botanical illustrations, Victorian-era scrapbooks and abstract expressionists. The result was a cool collection, with a heavy use of prints, texture and color on flirty tops and skirts paired with two-tone tailored separates and knitted sweaters.

Narciso Rodriguez Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Narciso Rodriguez used his strong construction skills, layering together different colors and fabrics for pieces with a Japanese feel, like the draped kimono effect on an orange silk top with a deep red skirt that was wrapped. Sometimes it seemed like two dresses were layered into one. His new accessories collection, which made its debut on the runway, was a strong addition and featured color-blocked gloves and functional handbags in exotic skins and suede.

Micheal Kors Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Michael Kors chose a rustic-luxe cabin in the woods in wintertime as his location, what collection will fit there we all can guess.  Buffalo checks and fox fur. His trick, as always, was to filter it all through his glamorous yet practical lens. Manhattan meets Aspen, besides lots of fur women who prefer their outerwear on the tamer side Kors, showed tartan chesterfields and striped blanket ponchos with deep fringe.

Daywear was all about the mix: an almost conservative midi-length skirt paired with a knit lace tank bustier, or black leather adding edge to a gray plaid dress. Cocktail hour continued to match country with city—like the ivory fisherman sweater and the gold lace skirt.

First View New York FW2012: Eccentric

Is this the kick off for an era of extremities? Or just another flow of reminiscence of the 60s en 70s, when pastiche and thrift shops came in favour. But now it get’s the luxury make over. The spirit of frivolous, brocante, scarce collectors items and precious iconic couture with a daring twist. Anna Piaggi and Iris Apfel are the muses to watch. Ab fab furs, chunky knits, lush velvet and corduroy, rich embroidery and tapestry. Proportions are blown up, giant is the size to go for. Supersized jewellery, hyper hats and bold stoles. Some take it serious and embrace the crafts aspect, some take it modern and throw in some digital printing and finishing, where others go for the humorous edge. Marc Jacobs most extreme with fluffy supersize hats, Nicole Miller revives vintage with some Boho touches, Libertine scatters dazzling glitter over luxurious crafted textures. Entertaining, exiting and fun is a good status for fashion.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Oscar de la Renta Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

There was a youthful feeling in the collection of Oscar de la Renta. Still precious , but most of the clothes were short, full-skirted silhouettes; in baby-pink and powder blue;  ribbons in the models hair. But it was the photo prints of jewels that gave this show its younger streak.
Of course De la rente presented  skirtsuits and twinsets, but they weren’t the focus. Embellishment was all around, even by day. Ladylike suits came in gold lace jacquard and silvery metallic tweed. Pants looked sporty, sometimes tucked into boots dripping with fur. The playful mood continued into evening, where the emphasis was on cocktail dresses.

Thom Browne Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Ten coffins had been arranged in a row. They held the bodies of “ten beautiful girls who died for fashion,” according to a gray-suited female rector who introduced the scenario at Thom Browne. The clothes were meant to represent their final reverie. Browne’s scenario called for his victims to be reanimated by their love of fashion. They clambered out of their coffins and stood sentinel-like while models meandered around them. They were dressed in layered, folded, draped, parachuted and reptilian-spiked creations. Tailored jackets and skirts of varying lengths were layered on top of one another while fox scarves in wool, complete with head and legs, were draped over models’ shoulders.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear FW2012 Day 5

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Miu Miu-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

For his second line Marc by Marc Jacobs, the designer mixed milirairy influences with a youthful style. Lot of dresses, from a red satin onewith purple appliqués and a gathered waist  to  smock dresses. Two-tone A-line pleated skirts reminded of schoolgirls. Knits were slouchy and cosy, and jackets ranged from the fuzzy double-breasted coat to more linear, car coats to parkas with a furry hood.

Silhouettes were practical and cool, nothing overly trendy, just foundation pieces for a smart looking wardrobe.

 

First View New York FW2012: Dressed Up

Sensual form-fitted peplum dresses show that a long lean contouring tube can take on lots of characters. Twisted, folded, tucked, pinned and draped in sleek jewel toned satins with sophisticated not-so-daring slits. Sculptural minimalism makes a powerful silhouette since the fabrics’ contour and shape the body neatly. Smooth curves, pure and severe. Peter Som refers to the traditional peplum dress, Diane von Furstenberg goes more drama with severe asymmetric draping. Victoria Beckham is in control, as she always is, in compact and dense bonded jerseys where streamlining colour inserts play a trick with the eye. Donna Karan shows the most masterful tailoring. Artful compositions create a ultra modern look, clearly inspired by a retrospect on Marlene Dietrich emphasized by the Stephen Jones Fedora’s for an androgynous twist.

 

 

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

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