Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

The idea of today’s Bottega Veneta collection seemed simple. For his first collection in collaboration with Katie Grand Tomas Maier came up with graphic dresses and skirts worn with woolen sweaters. Prints were uneven, just like the geometric satin and leather pieces attached on many of the dresses. Pleats and plisse details were visible throughout the whole collection, creation impressive 3D effects at times. It resulted in a very wearable and feminine collection, with enough refreshing extras to keep us and of course the Veneta woman interested. Not a pair of pants at sight, but who needs trousers when those kind of graphic kneelength skirts are available.

Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Sure, minimalistic fashion can be super chic. But there’s nothing wrong with a perfect mix of textures, prints, colors and embroideries, like we saw at Etro Friday afternoon. On the contrary, the show was a feast to watch. Etro may be famous for it’s paisley prints; designer Veronica proved the brand has way more to offer. The clothes had luxury written all over them, with models sporting creations made out of deep colored, rich fabrics. Contemporary looks with a definite vintage touch.  Perhaps those wide legged pants with golden prints looked a little too disco (seventies/eighties) and a brown velvet dress (paired with a waistcoat) is hardly to become a fall musthave, but the rest of the collection had enough modern accents to make it cool. Forget those monochrome printless pieces that have been dictating fashion for the last few seasons; we want paisleys, florals, checks, tassles, shearling, embroideries, fur bags, suede boots and what not.

Sportmax Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

The heaviest fabrics, yet not necessarily the warmest looked popped up at Sportmax today. The Italian fashion house presented an animal inspired (leopard prints, snake leather and a wide variation of fur accents) collection with perfectly tailored coats, sophiticated skirts and elegant, sleeveless dresses. Doubles breasted suit jackets seemed menswear inspired and a few fur creations appeared kinda boxy, but other than that Sportmax F/W2014 with a strong focus on the waist, peplum accents and deep cleavages was a celebration of femininity. Touches of red and blue and an ultra bright paint spatter print brought the pieces to live and that multi colored type of fur definitely made up for some show stopping looks.

Blumarine Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Just as Eastern inspired collection themes seem to be fading away, Anna Molinari came up with an Asian inspired collection this morning. She sent her models out on the runway sporting, shiny satin creations, with eastern inspired floral prints and kimono sleeves. Not only was the satin shiny, the designer played with metallics, glitter, sequins and smashing leather too. Heavy leather and fur were in the mix with sheer tulle and lace, hardly ever covering up the models well enough for the winter season. But then again these looks aren’t meant for everyday wear. They were created to make heads turn and yaws drop. Like the finale of evening wear, containing both shiny tuxedos and sequined party dresses.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Apart from an all red look and a selection of full on purple ensembles Costume National told a true monochrome story today. Fresh faced models (hardly any make-up, hair undone; the kind of streetstyle coolness we know from most French editors) worked the modern, cool f/w2014 collection, which formed the ultimate mix of menswear inspired creations (pinstripes, boxy fits, large collars and suits) and elegant feminine designs (sexy dresses, sheer blouses and lots of (faux?) fur. Like the first crispy white look with a pair of loose fitting pants, brogue shoes and a winter proof fur waistcoat, worn carelessly, hands in the pockets. Followed by a more sexy attire, short dress, bare legs, high heels. A few navy & black designs were less impressive, but other than that, f/w 2014 just felt right. The CN woman is not trying to hard to fit in. She’s not desperate to look sexy or desirable. And she doesn’t dress the way she dresses for anyone else but herself. That’s why the CN woman, or girl if you will, is so damn hot. Yes, especially in that tux-inspired black suit at the end.

First View New York Womenswear FW2014: Stillness

Stillness and quietude might be the one true luxury. We spot gorgeous drapes and wraps and composed kimono volumes. The absence of detail exposes the best in materials. Square cut nearly monumental silhouettes gain feminine spree through the drape quality of compact and chunky yet gorgeously supple wovens. Subtle surfaces where brush effects, felted looks and heather aspects add liveliness and a natural appeal.

BCBG Max Azria takes advantage of the endless layering opportunities that fall permits. The Row shows a range that is quietly spectacular made with 900-gram double-face cashmere. From soft and fluffy to a tranquil sculptural quality. Michael Kors plays with proportions and adds a firm grip to the choice of materials where Wang for Hugo Boss exercises his tailoring qualities with strong rigueur.

Once more the quality of cut and drape defined by the exceptional characteristics of the materials.

Stijlspot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First View New York Womenswear FW2014: Cocooning

No one could anticipate the Polar Vortex but still the supersize hand-knit sweaters are warm and prodigious as were so many silhouettes this season. Chunky shearlings, and curly bold sweaters are round and sheltering above flapping skirt layers and drapy pants. Super lush and luxurious materials flourish best in simple understated shapes. Roomy and relaxed like comforting cocoons.
Michael Kors shows masterful shag furs, chunky cardigans and deluxe cashmere sweats on A-line skirts. The Row luxury wraps as cowl-neck cashmere sweaters and matching asymmetric hand-knit skirts. Love for comfort, exquisite materials and a soothing calmness and ease drives this look.
Marc Jacobs dyed his shearlings in sunset hues. Light and calm, a cosmetic neutral palette and a play on pastels like the fabrics had undergone a beauty treatment.
Inspired by the cosmetics of animal skins rather then ours.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Bas Kosters Catwalk Fashion Show London FW2014

 

Clowns are people too, is the name of the fall/winter collection Dutch designer Bas Kosters presented at London Fashion Week last saturday. And it was a show to remember indeed. Not only the theme, but also Kosters’ vivid, colorful and fantastic prints in crazy outfits.  He created a collection that revealed both the man behind the mask and the mask behind the man. A collection that exhorts to look over, beyond the appearances.

First View New York Womenswear FW2014: Body Heat

 

Heating up the body was not the only reason to source for warming spice shades, bundles of Mongolian lamb, cashmere wraps and joyful faux fur. Where fashion increasingly tends to blend seasons, designers of today adore the extremes of winterly wild textures, fluffy organics and the voluminous sculptural aspects of pile surfaces, brushed hairy woolens and fizzy fringe.

Prabal Gurung wraps pashminas high around the neck, collaging cashmere throws, woven knits and tribal trims in yellow, rust and orange. And that all in one outfit. Crimson and ginger for meditative drapes inspired by native Nepal, his homeland.

Custo confirms the love for pattern. Showing clashing prints, plays with textures and lots of faux furs. Altazurra adds fire to tapestry pieces, beautifully artful flourishes, inspired by textile artist Sheila Hicks.

Let’s hope the high streets tap into this superb inspiration.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Proenza Schouler Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

The designers of Proenza Schouler wanted a collection full with energy, creativity and life. And so they did. Of course not without their focus on fabric. Graphic combinations of black paired with orange, purple, turquoise, crimson and pink converged in patterns reminiscent of vinyl records and the Flintstones. These came mashed up on sporty separates and single garments, such as precise patchworks of leather and crepe on dresses. There were also technical lace and flock prints embroidered with bugle beads.
The fabric finish was flat, matte, almost scubalike and accentuated by architectural curves: a nipped waist and sleeves that were big at the shoulder tapered toward the wrist.

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