Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

On Sunday Marni was one of the final Italian brands to show their s/s collection in Milan. And well, the brand, which is turning 20 this year, made sure Milan Fashion Week went out with a bang. Besides the show Marni set up a large flower market at one of Milans famous 18th century building where the show was held. Not only the prettiest of flowers were represented here. Marni had covered just about any type of gardening essential, decoratively exposed in cheerful (and of course) branded bags.

It was a subtle nod to the collection, which involved some mind blowing (made abstract and magnified) floral prints of it’s own. The show started off very serene and calm though, with white, sandy and grey structured, asymmetrical outfits, looking sportive and modern at the same time. Kimono like sleeves and judo inspired tied belts gave the collection a subtle oriental touch. As did the graphic floral prints in green, yellow and red with summer season written all over them.

Of course it wouldn’t be a Marni show if accessories didn’t play their part. Multiple chunky necklaces worn at the same time, eye-catching earrings, statement bags and some impressive sportive platform sandals made it into a solid summer collection. No pulling from the archives, no looking back, no “best of”or “greatest hits”, but a collection perfectly worthy of concluding 20 Marni years.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

Having pulled from Sicily’s beauty and history (their roots) numerous times Domenico and Stefano suddenly made a little inspiration hop for SS2015. Not the Italian island itself, but the Spanish invasion of Sicily (15th century) was the source for their sensual, classical yet still typical Dolce & Gabbana collection. “After a 200-year occupation the Spanish left a lot of things: baroque, religion, colour, flowers”, Domenico stated. All aspects well represented in this collection. Matador looks, flamenco outfits and castanets (on the soundtrack as well) were the almost literal translation of classical Spanish influences. Yet every look was given a modern, rich and extra sensual update. Bloomers, corset tops, cocktail dresses, skirts and capes were all highly decorated, embellished and embroidered. Rich floral patterns (even on some sheer knee high socks) were beautifully mixed with polka dots and stripes as heart prints represented passion. Everything was perfectly balanced. The prints, the colors, the revealing and the covering up, as well as the hair (middle parting), make-up (red lips) and the accessories (dramatic golden crowns, xl earrings and hand bags with dolls wearing matching outfits). Not once did the label let go of it’s oh so strong signature. We’re curious where it’s next trip will take us.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

The words chic, romantic and delicate might not usually be the best words to describe a signature Roberto Cavalli creation. Yet on Saturday the designer did present us with such a collection. A collection with a type of resort feeling, “the vacation life” as Cavalli’s team stated backstage. With modest, kaleidoscopic, tribal kind of floor length dresses, sliced up and pleated. With dreamy cotton lace decorated by elegant bows. And with destroyed, ultra light, vintage looking denim (the labels’original trademark) numbers. Still, who thought this would only be a dreamy, loungy holiday selection of clothing, might be disappointed. Of course Cavalli couldn’t resist to throw in a series of club worthy outfits. Like croc leather skirts and motor jackets. Like plunging, glittery leopard dresses. Like sheerness, fringes, sequins, leather and animal prints all in one party look. Now that’s the Cavalli we know! Although we don’t mind his little resort half of the collection, at all.

Sportmax catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

While Max Mara was nice, but not necessarily mind blowing, it’s little sister Sportmax was impressive with a collection full of XL check prints and culottes. The designs felt young as crop tops, hands in the pockets, hair pulled back and bare faces made it look modern. Models sported strapless dresses, belted kimono tops, checked pencil skirts with matching jackets and furry/fringed sweaters. All in a sophisticated color palette of blacks and whites, olive green and a bright touch of orange. Work attires, relax outfits and quite a few party numbers; for upcoming summer Sportmax is bound to appeal to a wide range of female customers.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

Were we watching a seventies show? Due to, among other things, the choice of hats Max Mara didn’t really breathe S/S2015 at first. Yet after a closer look we could see the modernity of the clothing. Most looks seemed a combination of a mid calf length pencil skirt and one or mops layered tops. Yet with all of them being fully printed it was hard to tell where one piece of clothing ended and the other began. Let alone distinguish a skirt from a pair of culottes. In any case Max Mara focuses on the waist for summer with not only skirts but long, tailored double breasted suit jackets too. XL cardigans and trenchcoats were worn over sheer tops. Slouchy belts and silky scarves added some chicness of the collection as those suede boots would work well with just about any 2015 ensemble.

Jesus del Pozo Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

Creative Director Josep Font of the Spanish house Delpozo played with volume, proportion and illusion. He began with exaggerated sportswear silhouettes: the widest of red culottes paired with a white wrapped bandeau, and the fullest of skirts, beautifully done in a white, navy and green midi strapless dress with a white shirt underneath. He then shifted gears into more sculptural pieces inspired by the land art of Nils-Udo, including a yellow top with an exaggerated peplum and a sculpted flower on the bodice, and a miniskirt with origamilike panels.
He also paid homage to the 19th-century glass creations of Leopold and Rudolf Blaschka with a green tulle shirtdress embellished with seashells.

The Big Round Up Womenswear FW14, Part 3

This is part three of our trend-overview of season FW2014. Take a closer look at Cosmic, Warriors and With a Swirl.

COSMIC

(Dsquared², Balenciaga, Gucci, Wang, Iceberg(

A touch of Barbarella spotted at Dsquared² with a slice of lunatic glamor. Much more strict, square and bold, the sporty hybrids of Balenciaga show a playful touch of humor. Cosmic starlets in leather mini’s at Gucci. More utility at Balenciaga, ready to hunt or to enter the lab? Chunky sweaters treated with crinkly silver foil, like an astronaut’s space suit at Iceberg.

 

WARRIORS

(Haider Ackermann, Rick Owens, Rick Owens, Haider Ackermann, Barbara Bui)

Brace yourself, the troups are nearing. The heroins of Haider Ackermann, show feminine and masculine symbiosis, in longer then long sumptuous slouchy suits.

Family tribes and high priestesses at Rick Owens wear sleeveless tunic dresses and ponchos in primal knit, felt and leather skins. Modern day cocooning goes elegant at Ackermann in lush jersey cap-sleeved onesies, the hit of the season. Barbara Bui shows chunky and sharp tailored jerseys.

WITH A SWIRL

(Chalayan, Dries van Noten, Christopher Kane, Roland Mouret, Just Cavalli)

Most excitement was in the added dynamics. All moving layers and slits in Hussein Chalayan’s gauzy gowns, glittering in liquid textures. Dries van Noten’s pattern mania shows psychedelic swirl with a rave quality. Christopher Kane’s organza dresses ruffle, since composed of fifty dark-trimmed leaves of the fabric. Sculptural as well as ethereal. Roland Mouret’s stiff coated tweed is animated by a swirling laser cut fringe skirt. Just Cavalli shows racy metallic collage prints, exuberant applications and skirts with an elegant swirl.

The dynamic promise of technology!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

The Big Round Up Womenswear FW14, Part 2

This is part 2 of our trend-overview of the coming fall season. Between the continuous feel for sobriety, for real clothes and a new found spirit for informality , we did spot some true fashion statements. In percentage not that many, but nevertheless there. Found mostly in expressive materials, holographic coatings, laminations, cuts, fringes, 3D embellishment and eye-catching patterns. Where past seasons were strong on craft we now sense a steady shift towards technology.

Take a closer look at Crafted Luxury, l’Art Decoratif and the Wild Ones.

 

CRAFTED LUXURY

(Céline, Altuzarra, Stella McCartney, Michael Kors, Michael Kors)

Love for raw refinement. Céline wrapped her model in fluffy feather fringe, Altuzarra in simple elegant shifts from crafted tapestry weaves, Stella McCartney’s comfy tweed parka’s showed an earthy tribal feel, where Michael Kors went for maximum luxury in ombré pullovers, chocolate brown feather fringe and masculine suits made of floating luxurious cashmere tweeds.

 

L’ART DECORATIF

(Missoni, Burberry Prorsum, Bottega Veneta, Peter Pilotto, Tod’s)

Missoni showed abstract patched tanks in boiled and felted knit. Reflecting on Bloomsbury, Burberry hand-painted cashmere shawls to be worn on mohair coats. Technical wizardry was used to create this pattern magic – zigzag puzzles at Bottega Veneta. Exuberance and excess in trippy and clashing geometric prints at Peter Pilotto, where Tod’s showed mosaic-like lozenge patterns in multiple techniques.

 

THE WILD ONES

(Miu Miu, Saint Laurent, Fendi, Alexander McQueen, Marni)

A flavour of the primal. Miuccia Prada layered her padded and quilted dresses with grand volumes of fluff for Miu Miu, Saint Laurent‘s cool, pop princesses strolled the catwalk in fur, lazy with casual extravaganza. As human cats in long haired fluff. Wild beauty at Alexander McQueen, and – this is a quote – incongruous incursions of fur at Marni, just figure out yourself what this might be…

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

 

 

 

The Big Round Up Womenswear FW2014, Part 1

As always we where overwhelmed with the flood of fashion beauty and material excellence coming over us during the global fashion weeks.

There was this continuous feel for sobriety, for real clothes and a new found spirit for informality motivated by utilitarian inspirations. Lot’s of chic citywear icons where given the sporty treatment. The best windbreaker, the most comfortable puff jacket, the most perfect trouser fit. Between those masses of garments some were excellent in their normality, perfect in execution, amazing in materiality. Supreme touch, perfect drape, etc. Technology is helping here and making top tailoring more accessible, performing textiles more sensual and expressive fashion textiles more functional.

Between those real clothes to please us, very close to what woman desire to wear instantly, we did spot some true fashion statements. In percentage not that many, but nevertheless there. Found mostly in expressive materials, holographic coatings, laminations, cuts, fringes, 3D embellishment and eye-catching patterns. Where past seasons were strong on craft we now sense a steady shift towards technology.

Then there is this big (in many ways) offering of the cosy and comfortable. We nearly dare to mention a return of the feel for cocooning. All about enveloping, embracing, sheltering and protecting. Wrapped in plaids, down blankets, furs, felt ponchos and most of all in knits.

Knits where everywhere this season. For separate items as well as total looks. Haider Ackermann uses them long, lean and liquid. Balenciaga is among the designers who experiment by laminating bulky knits; others just cut it as woven material, where many, as The Row, find excellence by use of precious fibre – cashmere has never been that big.

Where we expected previous season a future for narrative sets and spectacular venues this was limited to few. The stupendous supermarket setting of Chanel was the talk of the season, he vacuum-packed his bags where Iris van Herpen left her audience in awe by vacuum-packing her models. Both raised a manifest on consumerism, in Chanel’s case this is likely to be rather ironic. Political or social statements where hardly done. Fashion is where it used to be, fur is back bigger than ever without any thought or comment, quotes were there for a season in summer, but were empty phrases appliquéd on garments as decoration. Now the message was femininity, desire and being beautiful. Back to the core business of fashion.

In general it seems that designers very much care for how women feel, what a girl wants, how fashion makes them feel beautiful. Fall 2014 catwalk season was much more about the exploration of women’s fashion desires then about pushing designers signature looks.
Cherchez la femme!

URBAN TECH

(Alexander Wang, Prada, Christian Wijnants, Balenciaga, Miu Miu)

Outdoor and urban sportswear never looked that glamorous. Alexander Wang showed utilitarian city wear in experimental tech textiles, Prada staged a boxy shearling in mirroring gold. Silver foil jackets at Christian Wijnants cover tech double knit shorts and Alexander Wang laminated cabled knit monty’s to cover chain knit skirts. Miu Miu uplifted normality by adding hologram gloss to quilted shirt jackets.

 

INTER-GALACTIC ROYALTY

(Rodarte, Moschino, Thom Browne, Dolce & Gabanna, Etro)

Bumping into a Princess Leia look-a-like at Rodarte we realized that Starwars is still making waves. Jeremy Scott explored junk culture for Moschino and came up with the bright, brash and ingenious staging their urban princess, Thom Browne evoked the ecclesiastical and went for the sublime, it where king’s that inspired Dolce & Gabanna to dress up this princess, she is showing us the key towards success. Veronica Etro met her royalty during a trip down the Silk Road.

KNIT IT

(Yohji Yamamoto, Céline, The Row, Céline)

Knit is big in all senses. Impressive knit volumes – soft, bulky and warm at Yohji Yamamoto. Sensuality and tenderness is what drove Phoebe Philo towards her all knit wardrobes for Céline. Instant luxury is what the models must have felt when The Row covered them in these super-size double face cashmere knits. Simple, still and ultimately comfortable.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Paris Womenswear FW2014: Mini Mini

Mini is a topic in Paris and we want to share it with you.
Lanvin goes costumy with intergalactic references in a square cut boxy mini dress with swinging metal fringe. A sculptural look with a weightless appeal. We call this mini with gravity.
Miuccia Prada for Miu Miu takes the banal, the ordinary and everyday and made it desirable and luscious. She stages young girls in windbreakers and pea coats, with rucksacks but nevertheless very chic. Girly dresses that reveal the knees, frivolous with a sporty twist.
Slimane dresses Little Red Riding Hood for Saint Laurent, with a wiff of Tinkle Bell esprit. Poppy capes that cover the Parisian classic – the little black dress. Casual extravaganza for pretty pop princesses.
Nicolas Ghesquière was listening to the girls for Vuitton – what they want, what they need. Joy was the word. Cosmic holographic coatings adorn zipped shifts in subtle skin shades in A-line cuts with a 60s vibe.
All lighthearted and leggy!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

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