Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

There was a forties meets seventies feeling in the collection of Marc Jacobs’ second line, Marc by Marc Jacobs. What that translated into was a primmer, nerdier version of the Seventies, but with Jacobs’ vibe. This came across in the glassy, polished blouses and dresses that left practically everything to the imagination. This was not a sexy collection, nor was it sexless, it just maintained a more professional, adult mentality. The chunky knits, effortless dresses and sizable pants in muddy fall colours of orange and brown had a thrifted, serious quality to them. It somteimes reminded of Annie Hall. Also attractive was the Navajo-style ethnic prints on jackets and a long poncho.

This was a very commercial and dressed collection, but done in a casual way. Elegant dressing the easy way. Don’t we all want that?

Y3 by Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

For fall Yohji Yamamoto was inspired by a journey, by traveling around the world. In his opinion young people don’t travel enough. ‘My generation used to be called hippies. Now, young people are backpacking. By walking in the world, young people can see what’s happening, what’s going on. Don’t catch all your information from TV, or too quickly. Just walk. Go around’, he told The Cut.

And with this thought in the back of his head Yamamoto designed a very streetwise and cool collection. His boys and girls looked tough in his designs, walking the runway with their hands in their pockets.

It almost seemed as if Yamamoto took his traveling inspiration literally, since there were outfits for all types of weather conditions. Sporty black dresses, long skirts, Tartan printed shirts,  leather jackets, super thick menswear pants and comfy jersey items formed a nice, youthful Y3collection.

Caps, scarves, bags and big zippers gave the collection an even bigger street chic appeal and proved that even though Yamamoto is 67, he still knows how to Wow his customers.

An Anna dello Russo moment at Marc Jacobs

Thom Browne Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

Thom Browne’s first proper show of his women’s collection was a special kind of spectacle. He transformed the New York Public Library into a church with a convent’s worth of models dressed like nuns. Finally Browne found a way to mix his Catholic upbringing and his fascination for uniforms. His nuns marched in covered up except for the gigantic fake eyelashes peeking out from beneath their habits. One by one the girls were liberated from their cloaks by a pair of altar boys, only to reveal clothes that were the real cross to bear.

Underneath there were elements of Browne’s menswear vocabulary: checks, extreme proportions, difficult layering, and an absolute upending of red-white-and-blue tradition. Browne encased each woman in ultra-stiff, tailored layers done in exaggerated proportions with a preppy, varsity theme. There were shrunken suits in mismatched plaids,  blazers with giant peplums and layered maxi coats with shirttail hems, some of which will be wearable once the look is dismantled.

There was absolutely no sex in this collection, restriction was everywhere: the models walked without moving their arms, turtlenecks were pulled up over their mouths, and molded bubble skirts and tops looked about as comfortable as a straight jacket. That seemed precisely the point. One of the finale looks actually included a skirt made out of a cage of red and blue ribbon.

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

Donna Karan loves to work with contradictions. Masculine-feminine, natural and urban, soft and rough, satin and fur. She continued last season’s pale palette, now  pearl gray and taupe instead of ivory-beige.

As for the clothes, except two pairs of high-waisted draped jersey pants, Karan showed dresses, skirtsuits, and coats, along with a few filmy blouses with draped necklines that sometimes doubled as head scarves. Every look, without exception, had a nipped waist. Karan was at her best in terms of cut, decorating the clothes not with extra stuff but with elegant drapes and folds. One dress was tucked on a soft diagonal and wrapped in front; another fell into a gently  cowl. The jacket of a slim suit had sleeves that tapered from wide, puffed shoulders. Another big hit of this collection were the shearlings and coats.

Often the looks were accessorized with flowing chiffon headscarves worn with a mysterious air of the runway variety, exquisite pearl necklaces and long gloves with deep, dramatic fur cuffs.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

It was all about polka dots and  looking polished at Marc Jacobs. Again, but now two decades later Marc Jacobs decided to use his favorite print again. It was a big step from his YSL/Seventies inspired spring-collection, but the designer couldn’t care less. He told WWD he’d thought about all things he’d done in the past and what he’d loved. He ran through all of his collections and presented his description of classic. From the trompe l’oeil to the polka dots to the glam collection that had the rubber, and the sweats that he’d done, all those crazy American classics. He just wanted to have fun.

We’re familiar with his mood-swings now, so it’s goodbye to gentle fluidity and hello to an austere line that was sliver thin and had a couture-like precision but also a girlish charm. The dots came small, medium and large; matt and shiny; flat and 3D and in an various fabrics: prints and embroideries, rubber and pailettes, fur and fake fur. Often Jacobs started with a white shirt as a first layer under  a boxy sweatshirt or curvy jacket over slim, sexy skirts. He also showed  sweaters, a men’s coat,  sailor pants and romantic lace dresses detailed with  jabots.

As for accessories, spotted socks, mini-berets and a range of slush-busting snow boots completed the collection. Plus handbags in vibrant car-paint.

Diane von Furstenberg Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011/2012

If you have a favorite color Diane von Furstenberg suggests you to wear a complete outfit in that shade. The 64-year old designer sent several full color outfits down the runway, with all items (even the boots, bags and bangles) in a different shade of the chosen color (green, red or blue).

She alternated those color(blocking) designs with eye catching graphic prints, which could be found on skirts, jumpsuits and dresses with low V-necks.

The collection, called American Legends, seemed Western inspired, judging from the brimmed hats, puffy sleeves, fringed boots and gauchos. Yet Diane’s Western Woman was glammed up a bit by metallic details (golden belts resembling the ones of Gucci’s spring/summer 2011 collection) , see through nettings, fur items and graphic cut-outs. (Especially the last three sequined evening gowns were full on glamour looks!)

If you dress by the code Less is More this DvF collection probably isn’t your cup of tea. But since there were a lot of different trends to choose from almost any woman should be able to find at least something she likes. (We have high hopes for the skirts and blouses!)



Thakoon Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

When designer Thakoon Panichgul was doing research for his new  collection, he observed similarities between the costumes of Versailles and the clothes worn by the Masai.

Well, right. But somehow the designer managed to make a connection and it worked. The first look told it all:  a puff jacket with detachable panniers à la Marie Antoinette, but cut from a red and blue plaid ripped from a photo of African Masai-warriors. And Thakoon kept it going from beginning to end. Most of the patterns and prints, including arty batiks and stripes, were inspired by East Africa while the silhouettes mainly hinged on the courtly side — pouf peplums, ruffles and folds. It was ambitious. But the designer maintained control of this marriage of mixed motifs and the most striking thing was that despite the theme it looked so connected to the streets.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

It looks like New York-based designers are preparing themselves for a cold and strong winter regarding the major outerwear focus most collections have.  At times and temperatures like this, a coat is your outfit — just look at all the fashion-people bundled up along the runway.

There were endless excellent choices on offer for next season at DKNY, with a theme called New York Mods. Donna Karan did those coats tailored and graphic, like the black styles with a bold white panel across the chest, adding a little edge with leather sleeves. Toward the end there were knit puffers and furs. It was all sharp and suitable for everyday use. Same goes for what was worn underneath. Tough menswear in sharp, colorblocked tailoring mixed up with motorcycle jackets. Karan worked up chunky knits with a preppy tomboyish flare: bright cardigan dresses and stripey angora sweaters were worn with tailored trousers, tapered and flared. It was a cool and right on time collection.

Preen Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

Designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi’s of the British label Preen looked to the San Francisco crafts movement this season, but approached it in an ultra-modern way. They loved the idea of replicating hand-embroidery, tapestry and appliqué and incorporating it into their designs.

It was the first time Preen had knitwear and art and crafty embellishment in a collection, but it didn’t effect their future-vision. They experimented with proportions – hemlines were elongated, while single items looked like they were several garments. Shirt-sleeves and collars – appearing to be part of a shirt beneath – actually belonged to overcoats,  jumpsuits appeared as matching trouser-and-shirt looks and tapered skirts with  thigh-high splits were fitted with attached shirts. The effect was very modern. The vibrant pops of color, abstract geometric prints and embellished accents that jingled as the models walked by gave the classic silhouettes a touch of chic.

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