Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

It was not the strongest collection of Galliano for the house of Christian Dior, but is was for sure a memorable one. Not only because of the scandal the designer caused last week, but also because of the fact Dior fired the designer, the speech that Sidney Toledano – chief executive of Dior – held before the show this afternoon  and the atelier that received a standing ovation at the end of the show. In his speech Mr  Toledano didn’t mention Galliano at all, but he decried racism while reminding guests of the long heritage and bright future of Dior (see  parts of the speech below)

Outside the showvenue – the Rodin Museum – the scene was a mob. Police closed the street to accomodate the hundreds of people invited to the show waiting to get in.

The collection – that was finished by the couture house’s staff – was ultra-feminine. It reflected flirty styles from the early 20th century – and seemed primed for flappers, knickered ruffians, and ladies in their boudoirs. Boots were over-the-knee and on platforms, and the bags were big and roomy – looks that haven’t been seen on other runways this season, where shoes and bags have tended to be more prim and structured.

Parts from the speech Mr Toledano gave before the start of the show (quoted from New York Times):

“Since its founding by Monsieur Dior, the House of Christian Dior has lived an extraordinary and wonderful story and has had the honor of embodying France’s image, and its values, all around the world. What has happened over the last week has been a terrible and wrenching ordeal to us all. It has been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be. Such statements are intolerable because of our collective duty to never forget the Holocaust and its victims, and because of the respect for human dignity that is owed to each person and to all peoples. These statements have deeply shocked and saddened all at Dior who give body and soul to their work, and it is particularly painful that they came from someone so admired for his remarkable creative talent.”

…

“Christian Dior’s values were those of excellence in all that he undertook, of elegance and craftsmanship reflecting his unique talent.”

…

“The heart of the House of Dior, which beats unseen, is made up of its teams and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsman, who work hard day after day, never counting the hours, and carrying on the values and the vision of Monsieur Dior.”

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Never a dull moment in fashion-land. After the John Galliano-scandal and the rumors about who’s going to replace him, Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin was the next in line to cause gossip and speculations. He was absent from the label’s show and although a spokesperson from the brand insisted he was just feeling unwell and tired, others spread the rumor he was in a mental institution since te beginning of this year.

Let’s hope for Decarnin he is rested by now. And for his collection: it seemed he toned it a bit down, it was actually rather minimalistic – with the black, white, silver and gold. But the designer sticked to the strong shoulders and his favorite mix: skinny pants, jackets, boots, short skirts and T-shirts.

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Almost entirely black. Ann Demeulemeester sticked to her own language, and let only a little bit of red and blue speak for itself – mixed with black that is. It was dark, goth and tough yet beautiful, romantic and fragile/edgy at the same time.

The Belgian designer strated with aggressively tailored looks, some cut from hard leathers, and all laced with loose strips trailing in the back.  But the softer, gentler and more feminine side of the collection showed up with beaded fringed jacket and dresses. Dresses were softly draped. Feathers decorated most of the oufits, which gave it a more warrior-look:  Demeulemeester stuck raven-black feathers into wide cartridge-pleated straps, like bullet belts.

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Again the Balenciaga-collection was full of modern, surprising fabrics, silhouettes and clothes.

The punk spirit of last season seems gone but is replaced by a softer, more feminine theme. Soft, draped longer length skirts, knitted leather, tunics worn over pants, skinny pants with zippers at the back of the legs, soft oversized coats and comfy sweaters made a gentle look. Of course there we graphic colorblocking elements in the collection, andbesides black, white and gray Ghesquiere used orange, blue, brown and green.

Thierry Mugler Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The show of Thierry Mugler was the talk of the day, yesterday. Not only because it was Nicola Formichetti his first womenswear-collection for the house – but because Lady Gaga would also be part of the show. It’s great when a designer is supported by a star, but it also distracts you from the clothes that are actually shown. And that’s a pity. Formichetti designs for the stage, like Mugler himself used to do. These are extraordinairy clothes for extraordinairy women – popstars, clubgirls and stylists who can use some outrageous clothes.

The collection was mostly in black, white, pale beige and Mugler’s royal blue, and there were some molded plastic show pieces, as well as animal prints. The silhouette was minimal, with close-fitting dresses that sometimes looked like a second skin. I heard Lady Gaga already ordered some pieces. No wonder.

Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Gareth Pugh was back this season with a good old fashion-show. And his language didn’t change much really: black is still his friend and gothic is one of his favorite sources. But he also embraced fluidity and color.

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Rochas’ fall collection is Marco Zanini’s definition of chic. He reconnected with his Swedish roots with charming results. The outcome became a refresher course on fashion classics. There were the boxy kick-pleat skirts and Shetland wool sweaters, oversized coats in felted wool and swingy jackets, paired with leggings or capri pants. Elements of  tailoring were sprinkled throughout, including some  blazers with hefty shoulder pads. For night, Zanini took a  turn showing black brocade cocktail dresses with exposed zippers.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Dries van Noten presented a beautiful, restraint collection, mainly in black, white and camel with flashes of color and exciting prints. He got inspired by David Bowie and the Ballets Russes and translated that into a romantic collage of print, color and textures. And it was ultrachic. Lond coats over pants, golden skirts with black sweaters and dresses cut with intense yet visually discreet asymmetry.

Josephus Thimister Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Again Dutch designer Jospehus Thimister tried to make a comeback, after the presentation of his haute couture-collection a year ago. Hopefully he will last longer now. Thimister started his show with total black and total white outfits – suits, dresses, jumpsuits – loose, draped, for men and women. The most interesting part though was the second half of the show, where Thimister used his obsession for fabrics to present rough, tough knits and garments made of hairy felt and skin in white and grey tones.

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The name of the Giorgio Armani fall collection was Boudoir. Maybe because of the powdery pink colors? The fluffy furs? The dreamy dresses? Anyway, the master redefined the trousers by cutting them off at the ankle and giving the room to sway. Skirts were long and flowing, dresses skimmed the figure, fluid as water, and the Armani-suit got an update: buttons at the back instead of the front.

Soft pinks were a constant, together with black , gray and brown. Every single fabric was the product of research said the program-notes: satins that seem to meld into the skin, siks, velvets and chiffon that float like a trail of perfume.

« Previous Page — Next Page »