Alexander McQueen Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Futurism with softness, looking forward in a positive way. That was what designer Sarah Burton had in mind by creating her fall collection for Alexander McQueen. Burton presented it in a collection that was about lightness wit a core of power: futuristic princesses in “exploded” silhouettes in pristine white or enormous froths of pink feathers, their faces behind sleek visors. This was a story like only the McQueen house can tell and present, it left the commercial collection in the showroom. But that collection will for sure have connections with the show-pieces – same colors, same perfection and elegance.

 

Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Folk seemed to be the theme of the Valentino-collection, but we couldn’t tell that from the clothes. Or is must have been the dresses with native motifs that reminded of Greece, Russia or the Orient. But the black leather that opened the show, told a different story.  All in all it was a smooth, feminine collection with the familiar dresses and jumpsuits, softened with macramé seams and passementerie details.

The focus was at day-wear  with smart-looking frog-closure coats and Aran sweaters dotted here and there with crystals. For evening there were long, loose-fitting shorts in black leather with a tunic and an embroidered velvet vest—black tie, but with a modern touch.

Chanel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Besides the impressive front row (which today featured stars like Katy Perry, Kanye West, Alicia Keys, Elisa Sednaoui and Poppy Delevingne) the second best thing about a Chanel fashion show is it’s backdrop. This morning enormous translucent amethyst crystals filled the Grand Palais show area. They formed the inspiration for modern 3D pieces, like coats and dresses with multifaceted bodices in multiple shades. And actually the crystals were visible in every little part of the show. From the models crystal heels, to their shiny velvet pants, up to their shimmering jackets, enormous brooches, luxurious necklaces and their crystallized brows. Besides his classical, usual suspects (tweed coats and twinsets) Karl Lagerfeld added some modern items, like cigarette pants, leggings and multicolored graphic knitted sweaters (we even spotted a knit hoodie!). They made the collection feel younger and fresher than before. The extremely talented designer even proved you can never be too young for Chanel by sending a little boy out on the runway sporting a quilted Chanel bag (yet another Chanel highlight).

 

 

 

 

 

Chanel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

It was the second time this season we had to say goodbye to a talented designer. More than a week after Raf Simons left in tears, it was now Stefano Pilati’s turn to present his last collection for Yves St. Laurent. After seven years he definitely left the fashion stage. A place some people think he should have left much earlier since his collections were not always well received. despite all the critic, it was thanks to Pilati that the house of YSL made profit after years in the red.

Pilati’s last collection was one of dark sensuality, something he presented before. The models looked perfectly glamorous and they were dressed in a style of aggressive femininity, thin black silhouettes, cinched waists and lots of leather. Jackets had strong shoulders, pants and skirts were lean and sleek. More intimidating were the dresses in colored mesh, like the harness of a knight.

 

Giambattista Valli Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

For next winter Giambattista Valli presented quite a sober collection. He showed knit dresses, checked coats, knee length skirts and sleeveless tops all with one and the same focus point; a wide belt around the models’ waists. Perhaps the designs were a little less sexy than in a average Valli collection, but it definitely fit right in with today’s trends. Looks were cosy and appeared perfect for a cold winter day. Yet some of these looks can be deceiving since some of the knits were actually trompe l’oeil effect printed on airy fabrics. Still, no matter what choice of fabric all outfits were perfectly balanced. Tops looked as great with fur-ish skirts as they did with transparent pleated ones. Some full on graphical printed (and colored) looks (Marni-ish) and a golden croc leather coot stayed classy. And the sheer evening gowns which ended the show mixed covered sexiness with sophistication in a unique way. Now that is how you present a wearable cohesive collection.

 

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Stella McCartney focused at the English country life and mixed that with a more urban, sartorial style. The clothes ranged from slouchy low-slung trousers to the more feminine, like curvaceous brown tweed dresses with ribbed knit collars and a trio of colored knits worked in the multi-textured Aran tradition.
McCartney also put an athletic direction into the series of dresses that closed the show — curvy and in ergonomically arranged collages of Brit tweeds and techno stretch.

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

The Givenchy-collection was built on strength and confidence, with elements of equestrian motifs from the Seventies. Riccardo Tisci’s signature tailoring came first with variations on riding jackets done in combinations of pony hair, fur and leather that were placed on precise panels. More elaborate outerwear showed Tisci’s leather and fur workmanship, with graphic, diagonal patches of red, black and brown fur spliced on a jacket.
In the end the designer brought some lingerie-like dresses, soft and feminine with their lace-appliquéd, camisole-like tops and pleated skirts.

Issey Miyake Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Benches with dresses formed the opening scene at Issey Miyake. Minutes later those same dresses were sent out on the runway worn by models. The knit pieces didn’t have the best possible fit and all seemed a little strange, but didn’t seem like it was a mistake. Remarkable were the pleated, ruffled and draped grey skirt and vest with light blue detailing and the bright printed suits. And those ‘Michelin’ coats looked unique too. Bright colored leggings added a sportive touch, while two final colored looks (beautifully shown by darker models) represented some kind of streetwise meets eighties vibe. Different from a lot of other brands Miyake’s models were well covered up. No cut-outs or sheer ensembles here, so conquering those cold winter temperatures in his layered, blown up coats won’t be a problem, at all.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Inspired by drawings of Aubrey Beardsley (an influential illustrator and writer in the late 19th century) Bill Gaytten came up with luxurious ensembles for English women. His models were all dressed up in asymmetrical capes and dresses with enormous collars, large gloves and feather fascinators as their accessories. Especially the delicate designs in pleated satin and embroidered sheer fabrics appeared graceful. Done in shades of olive green, cinnamon, light mint and ruby red they seemed perfect for winter. And even though you could see every bit of the models’ bodies through them it still made the girls look classy.

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