First View New York Womenswear FW2013: Fabulous Coats

It’s been a big week for coats. Remarkable that an item that independent of the weather gradually lost its position in the stores, is now THE canvas for fashion statements.

A myriad of coat styles crossed the runways – from traditional camel capes, pea coats and prep Prince of Wales jackets to decadent furs, plastic trenches and an impressive series of stern and rigid, broad shouldered power coats with nipped and belted waists. From prim tailored trenches, reinterpreted smokings to rugged utilitarian parkas.

Most obvious where the numerous terrific coats that where stripped down and traditional, inspired by menswear suiting and tailoring.

Alexander Wang cut his coats oversize and dropped the waist inspired by boxing. Phillip Lim referenced bikers; showing  motorcycle jackets, ragged shearling but also super trenches. Michael Kors themed urban warriors; fast-paced, sporty and chic in bold, boxy, sculptural shapes and Calvin Klein buckles up and goes large; with mannish shoulders in dense cloth.

Though the coat’s references are mannish the looks are generally sensual.

Great tools of empowerment.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

For the set of his show Marc Jacobs got inspired by the ‘Weather Project’ of artist Olafur Eliasson’s, a huge hot sun that shone intensely on the models. Jacobs started his show under the sun’s low frequency light that removed all color, everything seemed black, gray and sepia. Then the light changed and it revealed a beautiful palette of neutrals and soft colors, poink, blue, deep burgundy and green. It was a simple collection without any techno-fabrics. Jacobs choose traditional materials like cashmere and alpaca, silk and fur. For day there were chic skirt looks and coats in blue alpaca and pink cashmere.The shine came via an embroidered fishnet motif on sensual pajama looks, and fox-collared tulle jackets covered in big, loose paillettes, some over-sequined gowns.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

There was some Soviet influence in the fall-collection Calvin Klein presented. It was visible in the distinct military details, especially with the first few suits and dresses. Mostly in black and navy, they came in a faint plaid with vinyl inserts. Designer Costa made a powerful statement with lots of leather, accentuated shoulders on tailored pieces and several oversize silhouettes in stiffer fabrics. He countered this almost workmanlike sensibility with sexy bandeau tops that were wrapped in the back.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Designer Ralph Lauren looked at Russia for his fall 2013 collection, but also took some inspiration from Paris.

Lauren’s day looks drew from naval motifs, particularly an array of outerwear, from pea-coats to officer’s caots. These came in various proportions, sometimes cut away. Though most were black or navy, Lauren lightened the lineup with a roomy ivory topper. He also showed knits and poetic shirts with billowing sleeves.

As for the pants, Lauren went for a classic sailor motif in skinny stovepipes. His other favorites were Cossack pants shown in burgundy and navy, sometimes pleated for extra volume.

Lauren broke up the mannish influence with lovely fluid dresses in deep-toned velvets and a beautiful series of evening-gowns.

First View New York Womenswear FW2013: an Englishman in New York

Here is a very clear and retail-friendly trend to spot. Classic English tailoring, menswear suiting materials and silhouettes referencing collegiate prep. Not that we have never seen this before. This is all about comfort and ease, not so much in the fit but more in mindset – looking good, no shock, no unease and absolutely no risk. Luckily there are some designers to give this look a twist. By adding a touch of futurism in bonded materials or a quiet but brave re-proportioning of the silhouette. But mostly this is about referencing the classic, the authentic and re-viving as well as re-living tradition in Peacoats and double-breasted coats and blazers combined with abbreviated minis.

Tommy Hilfiger stays close to its preppy roots with Prince of Wales checks and hound’s-tooth checks and plaids. Rag & Bone, adds modernity by re-proportioning and mixing materials and textures. Victoria Beckham layers her skin-tight and sexy dresses with mannish but nevertheless sensual coats. Then have a look at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Y3 and Thom Browne to see how they manage to merge these icons of tailoring with their personal signature.

Hail to history and now back to the future please!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Oscar de la Renta Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Was this fall-collection of Oscar de La Renta a collaboration with John Galliano or not? Not one will know for sure. The American designer took the bow at the end and Galliano stayed backstage. Certain looks seemed to bear the Englishman’s hand, especially the opening jackets and  also the marcelled locks and deeply shaded, greasy eyes were familiar from his Paris days. Other pieces seemed more like vintage de la Renta, and that was good.

Anna Sui Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Please enjoy our pictures for now, our review will follow shortly.

 

Michael Kors Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Michael Kors went for the urban and sporty for his fall 2013-collection. He took the yellow and orange from the New York streets and mixed them the city’s favorite dress-color: black. Many of the tailored pieces seemed built for speed with rounded shoulders and aerodynamic construction. Black patent trim and taped gave it all a vibe of fast sport like car racing.  Kors also used all sorts of camouflage, most luxuriously in multicolor mink.
Kors’ idea for evening are a fitted minidress with a long peplum overskirt.

Derek Lam Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Derek Lam got inspired by made ‘American style’ for his fall-collection, showing a cool and concise mix of artisinal and classic in a minimal union. The color palette of ivory, navy, camel and burgundy worked on rich, double-faced fabrics like satin, plus furs and leather.
Lam took classic investment pieces with elegant novelty via graphic, second-skin tops. There were recurring elements of the patchworks done in leather and wool jersey, crochet and a thick textured lace.

 

Y-3 Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Yohji Yamamoto sent out an “Analog vs. Digital” collection for Y-3, contrasting the traditional with the modern. For women, it translated into a mix of materials, textures and lengths.  A key look was a fitted sweater, puffer vest and neon plaid scarf worn with skinny pants and a transparent PVC kilt that was cut in half. Yamamoto’s men’s wear had more of a utility-meets-street vibe with a strong focus on outerwear.

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