Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

With Jean Paul Gaultier’s fashion show being called G Spot it was not hard to predict what the collection would be about. It appeared lingerie played a big part in his collection. And now that lingerie is seen in so many collections, JPG would be crazy not to use this theme. He brought back his oh so famous cone-bra, which he designed for Madonna in the late eighties. It was incorporated in a lot of designs. The streetwise gangstergirls who opened JPG’s show wore denim overalls with cone-bra details. Later on when the models turned into military types and pin-up girls it kept coming back. One model even wore a cone-bra with matching (pregnancy?) cone-belly. Although some fun spiral bracelets were shown in most outfits the bra was the highlight of the designs. Maybe JPG had overused this success-design a bit. But that certainly won’t mean celebrity guests Katy Perry, Rihanna and Dita Von Teese wouldn’t love to wear one of JPG’s cone-bra designs on stage. (Tess van Daelen)

Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

For her SS2010 collection Rei Kawakubo designed perfect shoulders on her outfits. Except, they were all in the wrong places (around the breast or the upper arm). She also made leather shoulder braces, worn on top of some outfits. Could it be that she wanted to express some criticism towards the focus on shoulder-pads in many present-day collections? The models had colorful cotton candy hair and wore flat shoes. Their clothes had some sports references: tight cycle-pants were worn over black leggings. A lot of fabrics were interestingly mixed, from chiffon to leather to velvet. They came together in patchworked dresses. These dresses seemed somewhat Victorian influenced in the way they were shaped, fitted, draped and dragged. Throughout the whole collection Kawakubo brought back military influences and shades of nude. In this way she seemed to be reminding the public that she was one of the first designers to come up with these trends. (Tess van Daelen)

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

A model in a plain-looking grey suit opened Junya Watanabe’s ss2010 show. A few more suits followed, all in black, white or grey. Strangely, the first designs looked as if they fitted too tight, judging from the folding around the buttons and breast. As in all of Watanabe’s shows the models’ heads were abundantly decorated. The girls wore high turbans in all kind of shapes and sizes. Also, every outfit was completed with some elegant masculine black and white shoes. Some long blouses (pleated at the chest) came up after the suits. They were followed by black and white tops and dresses. These came in many different prints (a lot of checks and some pied-de-poule) combined with black leggings. Most of the tops were loose-fitting, innovatively shaped and strikingly pleated. They were a good reflection of Watanabe’s designing style. (Tess van Daelen)

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Off course Viktor & Rolf’s ss2010 collection had everything to do with their new perfume Eau Mega. Their new scent – fresh & elegant – was not only a gift for the audience, the motto “megafy yourself’ also underlined their collection: mega-dresses, mega-make-up and mega-hair – all with a nodd to the eighties. The designers are attracted and inspired by what they call mega-women: strong women who follow their own path and are uncompromisingly themselves. For that reason the duo invited Roisin Murphy to perform live at the show. Thick layers of tulle played a major – mega – part in the collection, appearing as colorful ruffles outlining black jackets and dresses or as wide long skirts in eveningdresses with holes cutout by a laser. Tulle was also draped as a thin layer in a different color to black (one shoulder) dresses. Viktor & Rolf also had their boudoir-moment – as seen in Milan and at the first days in Paris – and translated that in silky pyjamalike suits, loose jackets and softly draped trousers in pastelshades embroidered with a patchwork of flowers. The impact on the public was, well, mega.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Haider Ackermann had a full house for his excellent show. The atmosphere – excitement, music and collection – caused emotional shivers. The collection was all in monochromatic gray, black and saffron yellow. Ackermann played with textures and gave his clothes a  slight toughness with the use of leather and raw fabrics, but the cutting was more confident and sexy. The new key piece is the sleeveless, vaguely military jacket in leather or suede worn with blousy, rolled shorts.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Alber Elbaz treated the audience yesterday with a a bombardment of emotional and visual pleasure. His ss2010 collection for Lanvin was an overload of color, glitter, and originality: dozens of girls marching, with a furious glamour, along a runway so long it seemed to stretch into  infinity. The collection was breathtaking technical:  drapey, pleated jumpsuits in polyester,  candy-colors like pink, salmon, peach, and vermilion, extraordinary fine leather,  a buildup of encrusted gold sequins and jewelry. There are no words to  sum up the powerful, slow-building impact of the vision Elbaz created. The man-made fabrics (al synthetic), the spirals of ruffles, the soft puffy coats, the plissees and the layering. His navy and mushroom jumpsuits are a whole new take on eveningdressing and a farewell to the official tuxedo. It had all the ingredients and inspiration women need to feel happy, confident and beautiful.

Paris Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #10

Paris Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #9

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Christian Dior’s fashion show started as a film noir with a lot of smoke and the sound of screams and guns. The models had the look of a classic beauty: red lips, colorful eyeshadow and long wavy hair. The corsets seemed the key element of this collection. A lot of lingerie and some gorgeous nightgowns in orange, red, purple and pink came by. The gowns were made of shiny (often transparant)  fabrics and had sequins all over them. A real showstopper was a long ivory gown with a strapless corset. From the bottom down sequins diverged all over its fabric. An eye-catching black transparent dress had violets stitched on top of it. A lot of big bags were carried around. They looked more like briefcases and therefore contrasted with the nightwear. A very thick leather jacket with an airy dress didn’t make up for a dazzling outfit either. From all the jackets that were shown John Galliano probably wore the best one himself. His detective look was the perfect end of this film noir-inspired show. (Tess van Daelen)

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

For the Nina Ricci SS2010 collection a new designer was in charge. Peter Copping, who has worked for Louis Vuitton, showed off his designer skills. As seen in many more collections for next spring/summer Copping used lots of nudes. There were some very cute frilly dresses made from tule, which had a lot of volume. Many of the dresses had multiple layers and collars adorned with tule. Those details gave the designs a romantic feeling. Prints were shown in only in one outfit. A floral printed dress was combined with a more subtle transparent cape. Also silky and lace fabrics were shown. The models carried perfectly matching clutches. They wore their hair in knots with some strings  all over their face. At the end of the show Copping combined the nudes with black and navy blue. Overall he designed a wearable collection in line with what Nina Ricci stands for. (Tess van Daelen)

« Previous Page — Next Page »