Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

After his ode to the American workers during the Depression, Ralph Lauren decided to take a more romantic road to fashion. The collection looked almost vintage Ralph Lauren, with its dark Edwardian touch, lots of velvet, black, burgundy and flowerprints.This is a style we know so well and which made him famous.

Ralph Lauren’s skill is to make the predictable look fresh. But he also to adds a discreet sexual vibe to male/female combinations. Jodhpurs curved to the waist and velvet vests were bodyhugging. The outerwear was plentiful, strong and mannish.

Long chiffon skirts and dresses reminded of Lauren’s favorite prairie-dresses, they were often mixed with long coats.

Philip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

Every fashioncity has its darlings. Philips Lim is one of the darlings of New York. Not because he is so brilliant and original, but because he knows how to sell clothes. The Chinese American Phillip Lim has a major in business at California State University and that shows.

American fashion generally puts pragmatism ahead of pyrotechnics; Lim more than most. That can make his shows seem like a series of ticked boxes rather than an experience. Mohair? Got it. Céline-esque camel drenched minimalism? Check.   Those winter 2010 trends kept on coming. Jersey, fur trims, trouser suits, low-shine sequins, sheepskin-lined biker jackets, animal prints. Sometimes it makes you a bit grumpy because it is almost predictable.

After launching his label six years ago, Lim now sells in more than 400 stores around the world and it’s not hard to see why. In real life the clothes work just fine. Lim has a knack for combining cute with chic.

Proenza Schouler Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

After a few sexy and dangerous looking collections  Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez gave their women more clothes to wear this fall. They layered her with staple pieces like swinging coats, cashmere sweaters and bubble-skirted dresses.

Of course the collection had some special details like the rubber printed cotton twill pants with black and white inkblots  These were cool, but the skirts that followed were better:  pleated or folded, in navy and green. Very girlish.

The designers also picked up on the season’s fur theme, but there were coats in alpaca too and dresses in black and white angora. The chic little  dresses that closed the show hit a high note.

McQueen’s label will live on

Alexander McQueen’s fashion label will live on despite the designer’s suicide last week. PPR, the French luxury group which has a controlling stake in the designer’s companies, said it planned to build on the McQueen brand.

Francois-Henri Pinault, president of PPR said at a press conference in Paris: “The Alexander McQueen trademark will live on. This would be the best tribute that we could offer to him.”

Robert Polet, president of PPR’s Gucci subsidiary under which McQueen worked, said the autumn/winter collection the designer was completing before his death will be shown at Paris fashion week next month.

Jeremy Scott Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

“I can be a freak, every day of every week” sang Estelle – part of the soundtrack at the show of Jeremy Scott. Well, you can say that from the designer himself too, and he seems to wear that slogan with pride.  He is the guy  who makes coats of Mickey Mouse gloves and dresses in Flintstones prints.

His fall collection was named Hanger Appeal, and contains a mix of sporty print pieces, restyled classics (like tuxedo’s) and a section with jewel and cross covered dresses.

Badgley Mischka Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

Twinkling embellishments and stardust beading were a big part of the Badgley Mischka collections. Their inspiration came literary from the stars, the designduo had been  studying pictires from the Hubble telescope.

Narciso Rodriguez Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

Narciso Rodriguez let his signature codes — sleek, a-symmetric cuts and architectural details — rule his fall winter collection. The collection was full of good, studied clothes, grounded in controlled silhouettes, which packed commercial appeal and were a bit on the safe side.

Sleek but sturdy outerwear, much of it reversible, was the message for the day. A parka,  a thick, shearling jacket with a wrap funnel collar  felt protective. Rodriguez’s razor-like cut-outs, slashed across the shoulder, or a sliver down the chest, came into play on glossy silk dresses for the evening.

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy have become New York’s  young dream team. And that means expectations are high, because everybody is curious for their next imaginary adventure.

For the past few seasons, the sisters have explored a beautifully aggressive vision.  Yesterday they showed a more lighter and softer side, with a collection  full of feminine nomads.

Backstage the sisters  told WWD  they had been thinking about Juarez, Mexico, border towns and “the idea of sleepwalking and existing between worlds.” The result was a  romantic collection in delicate colors (light gray, tawny brown and ivory), a beautiful and intrigueing collage of knits and  yards of traditional Mexican lace.
Sheer silk pants were worn under wrap skirts and densely woven sweaters that hugged  the body.  Often, the fabric looked roughly cut and draped at random to compose a single piece.

The show’s finale looked like a fairytale, with a glow in the dark effect at the shoes and some details in the clothes. It fit perfectly with the backround of  dripping candles.

The Row Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

As style icons, the Olsen twins even inspire the hautest of fashionista circles, yet they’ve mostly sold their clothes at Wal-Mart. With another line—the Row—they’re trying to bring their  inspirations to the top of the market since fall 2007.yesterday they held their first show.

It’s seems one of the very few celebrity/fashion success stories, since the three year old label has become known for its luxurious fabrics as well as its understated and classic cuts – sometimes with an edgy touch.

Their fall collection looks very low key and to the point, with black, white and navy as the main colors and a matte denim-blue python as their most luxurious material. There were collarless and belted wrap-coats, long sleeve leather T-shirts, silk jumpsuits, long hemlines and a slouchy tuxedo-jacket. All shown with flat Grecian sandals and models with hardly any make-up.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

No final changes or last minutes alterations were possible at Marc Jacobs’ fashion show. All of his models were already visible on stage at the beginning of the show. At first they were standing in a wooden frame, wrapped up in brown paper. Yet as Marc Jacobs tore off the paper they just stood there waiting to hit the runway.

Fortunately they didn’t have to wait very long. Because since Marc Jacobs banned celebs at his show this year he was able to start the show on time, for once. (His shows used to always start way too late, one time the delay was three hours.)

The first few outfits of the show could best be described as simple and sober. The wide skirts and the neutral grey shades did not make our hearts beat faster.

Then it got a little funkier as large fur coats with huge fur collars and cuffs were introduced. Though the hues of grey and beige were the same and they stayed the same throughout the collection.

The three new faces from last season, our Dutch top models, walked in the show as well. Bregje Heinen appeared in one of the sheer dresses of the collection. Patricia van der Vliet wore one too, yet hers was combined with a long striped coat. Mirte Maas wore a pair of colored glasses, which didn’t look too cool.

Several sequined looks reminded us of the fact that we were watching a Marc Jacobs fashion show for the winter of 2010/2011. We’d almost forget that while none of the clothes in this collection were very renewing.

But it seemed that was exactly Marc Jacobs’ point. He told the press: ‘There’s so much striving for newness now that newness feels less new.’ So he purposely didn’t go for something new or different. He just showed he knows what he’s doing and showed he’s good at it too.

But we’re not satisfied that easily…

The show ended with a few shiny dresses. Yet while the models wore hardly any make up and just let their hair hang loose the finale didn’t look very impressive. Marc could have put a little bit more effort into that part, if you ask us.

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