Walter van Beirendonck Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
We’e not sure how the male models felt afterwards, but the van Beirendonck show sure put us in a good mood. The Belgium designer showed some pretty street chic on trend quilted pants, followed by black leather, busy printed, XXL and argyle ones. And it was not just those pants that made us smile. Walter created suit jackets, vests and knitted sweater in the same style. All very colorful with a shiny disco twist. Checked bathrobe like coats got metallic fringes as extra eye catchers; the same kind of colored metallic that was used for the shoes, mouth and earpieces. A theatrical collection like you could expect from a Opéra Garnier costume designer.
Mugler Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
Future meets wintersport; at Mugler tough looking men wearing full on winter gear introduced us to next year’s fashion. Their black and army green looks mixed with leather gloves seemed like obvious futuristic ensembles. While neon pink, bright blue and green neoprene bodysuits with strong shoulders felt right for any kind of snowy destination. If those pants were just a little less shiny, those army jackets got more tailored and those models looked slightly less robot-like we could totally see these designs doing well next fall.
Carven Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
Standing fully dressed in a sober decorated office Carven’s guys seemed ready for work. Yet their workspace might have had a classic look and feel, the clothes were classic with a twist. Pleated pants were too short (just over the knee) revealing the models socks. Suit jackets were duo colored and colorful knitwear patterns were introduced. Models wore crazy knitted headgear and we wouldn’t describe the two printed camouflage coats as classic either. It looked like fun though. Most of the designs looked classy (not classic). And it might take a while before working men will strut around the office in those turquoise 5/6 pants, but the again there’s always casual Fridays. A fine debut collection for Guillaume Henry; changing men’s wardrobes step by step.
Raf Simons Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
Not distracted by his new job at Dior, Raf stayed true to his personal signature today by presenting an edgy yet playful selection of menswear looks. Sporting some crazy anime styled hair Simons’ men pulled off outspoken pieces like shiny satin pants, fully pattern vests and bright colored blouses with extremely pointy and askew (like the ones at Prada) collars. All the layering of the designs made the looks even more interesting. Turtle necks were worn with blouses, vests or sweaters, followed by suit jackets with horizontal bands in the front. Lots to like. And guess what? This season’s stripes are a Simons trend for next year too.
The Big Round Up Womenswear SS2013, part 3
Spotting trends, common threads, strong statements and influences was not an easy task this S’2013 catwalk season. What does this tell us about the present status of fashion? Is this the outcome of the current economic turmoil? Making designers opt once more for carefulness, minimalism and restraint? Does this push immaculate tailoring and supreme crafts? Excitement more hidden in cut and materials then in expressive aesthetics?
Reflecting on this we concluded that there was pure concentration on the making of beautiful clothes rather then strong fashion statements. Today, part 3 of our list of 9 inspiring directions ss2013-collections are taking us:
TIE DYE
Graduated coloring adds an exclusive, crafted and lively aspect to fabrics and garments. Here it reflects many moods. Acid and intergalactic at Missoni, bohemian at Versace, dreamlike at Blumarine, 70s at Jonathan Saunders and poppy at Cristopher Kane. These lovely graded coloring and subtle ombres become classics over time.
PRINT POWER
We DO believe in the power of print. This season they are scarce but smashing. Patterns with heritage and pedigree: inspired by hand pained glazed terra cotta at Dolce & Gabbana, to reworked animal skin classics by Stella McCartney as well as Kenzo. Fresh and modern are the vibrantly printed volants of Peter Pilotto and the wild ink outburst on red by MiuMiu.
FRESH STRIPES
Stripes are going to make it BIG! This parade of bold striped dresses breath crisp retro reminiscence yet the designers stated their inspiration was found in more obscure places.
From historic couture at Dior, disco at Jonathan Saunders, Sicilian souvenirs at Dolce & Gabbana, to 60s graphism at Sportmax and glam sports at Michael Kors.
Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam
The Big Round Up Womenswear SS2013, part 2
This is part 2 of our list of inspiring directions the new ss2013 collections are taking us.
SHEER LAYERING
When there isn’t the urge to change shape and silhouette, when restraint and understatement reign, interest in intriguing and manipulative fabrics raises. Here the playfulness is not in the cut yet in the cloth. Translucent layers cover simple shapes. Not so much about sexy sensuality but all the more about moderation and adding a faint touch of magic. Stella McCartney, Dior, Sportmax, Lacoste and Givenchy.
JAPONISM
Yoga suits and kimonos inspire minimalist silhouettes. Layered and gently wrapped; reinventing the dress as well as the suit. Subtle origami folds in soft plains with sophisticated shimmer, polished sheen or simply matte surface looks. Padded aspects, square trims, knotted belts and obi’s. At Prada, Lanvin, Mugler, Gianfranco Ferré and Haider Ackermann.
GORGEOUS COLOR
Gucci, Costume National, Dior, Lanvin and Jil Sander show that intense and passionate colour is just part of the message. The silhouette is the big story. As sharp as its shades, these forms are bold, square and boxy. Form fierce symmetry as well as sensual, bare-shouldered asymmetry. Power dressing is not just reserved for suits.
Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam
The Big Round Up Womenswear SS2013, part 1
October 12, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Milan, New York, Paris, Stijlspot, Stylespot, Trends, womenswear
Spotting trends, common threads, strong statements and influences was not an easy task this S’2013 catwalk season. What does this tell us about the present status of fashion? Is this the outcome of the current economic turmoil? Making designers opt once more for carefulness, minimalism and restraint? Does this push immaculate tailoring and supreme crafts? Excitement more hidden in cut and materials then in expressive aesthetics?
Reflecting on this we concluded that there was pure concentration on the making of beautiful clothes rather then strong fashion statements.
We saw lines of models wandering like babbling brooks, very interesting but far from mind goggling. The strongest acts of expressionism where in the sphere of geometrics and linear patterning. An interesting pulse came from textile technology, novel finishing and techno-crafted embellishment. Outspoken silhouettes where most inspired by the Orient, which was a follow up from what started previous seasons, rather then being a novelty. Understated black and white reigned when it came to coloring. And the return of patterning was near to non-existent.
So it will be the high street in desperate need of ways to differentiate, that will fuel the pattern trend, or it will take another season to reflect on it. And let’s be honest … in the context of recent catwalks, the few collection showing pattern, print and decorative accessorizing seemed quiet trivial and out of sink.
The lessons learned where: ‘how to be beautiful’, rather then ‘how to be fashionable’. And what can be wrong with that?
But… after seasons of flash backs and heritage, playing safe and conservatism… aren’t we in need of excitement and entertainment? Isn’t this what catwalk shows should be about? To be honest… we would have loved to see the sparkle of the unexpected.
The fun is, it’s there! Just look at the street photography during the catwalk shows. There the fire of decorative expressionism and eccentricity is burning. It is all in the mix.
Nevertheless we list you 9 inspiring directions, spotted at the international catwalks of New York, Milan and Paris. The first three are:
OPTICAL STRIPES
Where Marc Jacobs and Moschino show a literary revival of the swinging 60s, Aquilano Rimondi, Costume National and Sportmax add a contemporary twist to manipulative and illusionist black and white geometrics. From neat linear stripes to optical cut, patched and scattered blocks. Alternating contrasts of matte and shine, as well as transparency and opaque.
OPENWORK
There is a massive interest in materials, in techno-crafted embellishment and innovative manufacturing. Sportmax lasercutted hounds tooth patterns where Alexander Wang cuts and carves in more organic ways. Michael Kors punches sail rings and rivets where, Christopher Kane shows spectacular updates of quilting and lace, where, Balmain goes over the top showing glamazones in leather embellished with a layering of techniques.
NEW TAILORING
Works of art or couture mathematics? Costume National shows graphic cuts and sharp asymmetrics, balancing layers and proportions. Balenciaga confirms the important role that the sleeveless jackets will play coming seasons, martial arts reflect in Haider Ackermann’s wrap suits, where Narciso Rodriguez goes classy, Givenchy throws layers and Dior goes for powerful contours.
Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam
Streetfashion Womenswear SS2013 Paris Day 8
October 5, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Events, Featured Items, models, Paris, People, Streetwear
What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashionweek, season spring/summer 2013.
Miu Miu Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013
October 4, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear
On a barely lit runway Miuccia Prada sent out her fifties style ladies. Ladies that appeared elegant, but there was something off. Their clothes were tailored, but ill-fitting. The designs had a feeling of couture, yet were definitely ready to wear.
Miuccia did her first few looks completely in denim; pencil skirts, large coats with ¾ sleeves and strange tops. Pointy shoes, long leather gloves, rhinestone details, high bangs, long hair and cat eye glasses to completely capture the Mad Men feeling.
Even though the models appeared like well dressed fifties women; there was not one ‘picture perfect’ in the collection. Rich fabrics were destroyed (satin was pummeled, furs were tie dyed) and poor were upgraded (dark denim was lined in satin). “It was not about destroying elegance, but achieving a different kind. Very Parisian,” said Prada, “but in a fake way, in a wrong way! The femme fatale is never perfect…at least the ones I like.”
The dark show area, the countless furs and not the brightest of shades Miu Miu didn’t really breath summer. Yet Miuccia did manage to portray that 2013 feeling by bringing together conventional chic with contemporary raw.
Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013
October 3, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear
Please enjoy the pictures for now. Our review will follow shortly.
