John Varvatos Menswear catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2013

It seems any man will be able to find something Varvatos to add to his wardrobe coming fall. The designer presented a perfect mix of cool, young, street and gentlemanlike, dandy, chic. Three-piece suits for the office and skinny jeans worn with biker jackets for a cool outdoor concert. Yet no matter how versatile the looks were, they all got a Varvatos topping in the form of handkerchiefs (tied around the models’ necks), small mirrored sunglasses, fingerless gloves, felt hats and lace up boots. If it’s up to John velvet suits are a hit for 2013 and colorwise burgundy is still a popular option.

Versace Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2013

For fall Donatella is letting her men shine, big time. Every single look she sent out on the runway today was eye-catching, jaw dropping and head turning to the max. Just how Donatella intended it, as the show notes read: “Big is beautiful. The look is pumped. This is the maximization of luxury.”

Fully checked suits might have been the subtlest looks of the bunch, followed by larger than life zebra and giraffe prints. There was a colorful handmade paint print too, mostly used on the full on denim looks.

While bomber and biker jackets were shorts and fitted, overcoats in fur and camel were oversize. And if you thought all that heavy shiny leather and hairy fur might be a little too extreme for our soft winters; Donatella added a few more airy looks to her collection too. Like sheer embroidered bodysuits with lace details and the baroque Versace swirls worn with black tuxedo jackets.

There was a lot of over the top most women probably wouldn’t dress their men in. But perhaps the designs that end up in stores will be more wearable or Donatella is just aiming at a different type of men for next season.

Streetfashion Menswear FW2013 Milan Day 1

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear, season fall/winter 2013.

Burberry Prorsum Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2013

Apart from the leopard printed shoes Burberry’s first catwalk looks seemed very classic. Jeans, crispy white shirt, cashmere sweater and a camel shaded trench coat; Burberry like you would describe it to someone who doesn’t know the British brand (if there are any).

Perfectly shaved boys, with neat hairdo’s and sunglasses dressed their best for a first introduction to the parents in law or a perhaps a somewhat casual business encounter.

But when look #12 came on it was clear the leopard was a bigger theme for Christopher Bailey’s I Heart Classics collection. A zebra printed collar on one of the coats was followed by fully leopard and zebra printed patent leather jackets. Bailey teamed up his wild side with some looks in army green and then went on the spread the love. Literally by introducing a heart shaped print on several shirts, sweaters and one of the short scarves.

Animal prints and heart shapes; perhaps a lot to take in for a fifteen minute menswear show. Luckily we have at least six more months to get used to it. Plus, six more months to fully enjoy Burberry’s metallic designs, which Romeo Beckham is already wearing oh so well.

Dolce & Gabbana Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2013

The models’ looks couldn’t have been more different from each other today at Dolce & Gabbana. Long bearded men walked to Milan show next to some very young fresh faced boys. No seasoned models, but all guys and men (protagonists) hand picked by Domenico and Stefano because of their Sicilian roots. Because once again the Sicilian designers focus on their heritage and origin.

It is all about devotion for fall/winter 2013/2014. Absolute devotion to tailoring, devotion to cut, devotion to fabrics and devotion to details when it comes to the clothing. And  devotion to family, devotion to religion and devotion to love when it comes to the vision behind those clothes.

And all that devotion surely paid of. The (more than 80) protagonists looked impeccable in the classic creations. Dolce and Gabbana opted for inevitable winter shades like black (for coats, suits, velvets and cashmere), grey (for coats, suits, T-shirts, vests and embroideries) and white (for poplin shirts, inlaid shirts and for lace pillow-style embroidered jackets and shirts). Yet they added rich colors at the end used on jackets and silk T-shirts printed and embroidered with flowers. A few religious icons here and there, but the designers wisely said goodbye to last season’s Blackamoor imagery.

Costume National Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2013

Today Ennio Capase almost sent out a completely black colored collection. But, proving the power of black in fashion, there was more than enough to look at. Capase paired tough with chic by mixing leather pants with woolen coats and by giving other coats extra biker details, like multiple zippers and strong leather collars and panels. Extremely tailored jackets and classic hats added to that contrast. Touches of white and blue cheered up the collection, but it didn’t change the long haired models’ bad-ass mood. They were perfectly dressed rock ’n rollers on a mission.

Jil Sander Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2013

For her second menswear show (and the start of Milan Fashion Week) since her return Jil Sander did what she does best. She sent out perfectly tailored clean looks, often done in only one shade. Like the completely red or pinstriped suits even worn with matching shirts underneath.

Models looked warm and cosy in check printed coats, sports jackets, and big woolen sweaters with large collars. The six sleeveless chic looks seemed less appropriate for winter, yet did stress Sander’s vision.

Violet, burgundy and army green spiced up the grey color palette. Bands placed on chunky sweaters made up for a fun detail and plain duo colored tops might just be it for upcoming winter.

 

The Big Round Up Womenswear SS2013, part 3

Spotting trends, common threads, strong statements and influences was not an easy task this S’2013 catwalk season. What does this tell us about the present status of fashion? Is this the outcome of the current economic turmoil? Making designers opt once more for carefulness, minimalism and restraint? Does this push immaculate tailoring and supreme crafts? Excitement more hidden in cut and materials then in expressive aesthetics?
Reflecting on this we concluded that there was pure concentration on the making of beautiful clothes rather then strong fashion statements. Today, part 3 of our list of 9 inspiring directions ss2013-collections are taking us:

TIE DYE

Graduated coloring adds an exclusive, crafted and lively aspect to fabrics and garments. Here it reflects many moods. Acid and intergalactic at Missoni, bohemian at Versace, dreamlike at Blumarine, 70s at Jonathan Saunders and poppy at Cristopher Kane. These lovely graded coloring and subtle ombres become classics over time.

PRINT POWER

We DO believe in the power of print. This season they are scarce but smashing. Patterns with heritage and pedigree: inspired by hand pained glazed terra cotta at Dolce & Gabbana, to reworked animal skin classics by Stella McCartney as well as Kenzo. Fresh and modern are the vibrantly printed volants of Peter Pilotto and the wild ink outburst on red by MiuMiu.

 

FRESH STRIPES

Stripes are going to make it BIG! This parade of bold striped dresses breath crisp retro reminiscence yet the designers stated their inspiration was found in more obscure places.

From historic couture at Dior, disco at Jonathan Saunders, Sicilian souvenirs at Dolce & Gabbana, to 60s graphism at Sportmax and glam sports at Michael Kors.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

The Big Round Up Womenswear SS2013, part 2

This is part 2 of our list of inspiring directions the new ss2013 collections are taking us.

SHEER LAYERING

When there isn’t the urge to change shape and silhouette, when restraint and understatement reign, interest in intriguing and manipulative fabrics raises. Here the playfulness is not in the cut yet in the cloth. Translucent layers cover simple shapes. Not so much about sexy sensuality but all the more about moderation and adding a faint touch of magic. Stella McCartney, Dior, Sportmax, Lacoste and Givenchy.

JAPONISM

Yoga suits and kimonos inspire minimalist silhouettes. Layered and gently wrapped; reinventing the dress as well as the suit. Subtle origami folds in soft plains with sophisticated shimmer, polished sheen or simply matte surface looks. Padded aspects, square trims, knotted belts and obi’s. At Prada, Lanvin, Mugler, Gianfranco Ferré and Haider Ackermann.

GORGEOUS COLOR

Gucci, Costume National, Dior, Lanvin and Jil Sander show that intense and passionate colour is just part of the message. The silhouette is the big story. As sharp as its shades, these forms are bold, square and boxy. Form fierce symmetry as well as sensual, bare-shouldered asymmetry. Power dressing is not just reserved for suits.

 

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

The Big Round Up Womenswear SS2013, part 1

Spotting trends, common threads, strong statements and influences was not an easy task this S’2013 catwalk season. What does this tell us about the present status of fashion? Is this the outcome of the current economic turmoil? Making designers opt once more for carefulness, minimalism and restraint? Does this push immaculate tailoring and supreme crafts? Excitement more hidden in cut and materials then in expressive aesthetics?

Reflecting on this we concluded that there was pure concentration on the making of beautiful clothes rather then strong fashion statements.

We saw lines of models wandering like babbling brooks, very interesting but far from mind goggling. The strongest acts of expressionism where in the sphere of geometrics and linear patterning. An interesting pulse came from textile technology, novel finishing and techno-crafted embellishment. Outspoken silhouettes where most inspired by the Orient, which was a follow up from what started previous seasons, rather then being a novelty. Understated black and white reigned when it came to coloring. And the return of patterning was near to non-existent.

So it will be the high street in desperate need of ways to differentiate, that will fuel the pattern trend, or it will take another season to reflect on it. And let’s be honest … in the context of recent catwalks, the few collection showing pattern, print and decorative accessorizing seemed quiet trivial and out of sink.

The lessons learned where: ‘how to be beautiful’, rather then ‘how to be fashionable’. And what can be wrong with that?

But… after seasons of flash backs and heritage, playing safe and conservatism… aren’t we in need of excitement and entertainment? Isn’t this what catwalk shows should be about? To be honest… we would have loved to see the sparkle of the unexpected.

The fun is, it’s there! Just look at the street photography during the catwalk shows. There the fire of decorative expressionism and eccentricity is burning.  It is all in the mix.

Nevertheless we list you 9 inspiring directions, spotted at the international catwalks of New York, Milan and Paris. The first three are:

OPTICAL STRIPES

Where Marc Jacobs and Moschino show a literary revival of the swinging 60s, Aquilano Rimondi, Costume National and Sportmax add a contemporary twist to manipulative and illusionist black and white geometrics. From neat linear stripes to optical cut, patched and scattered blocks. Alternating contrasts of matte and shine, as well as transparency and opaque.

OPENWORK

There is a massive interest in materials, in techno-crafted embellishment and innovative manufacturing. Sportmax lasercutted hounds tooth patterns where Alexander Wang cuts and carves in more organic ways. Michael Kors punches sail rings and rivets where, Christopher Kane shows spectacular updates of quilting and lace, where, Balmain goes over the top showing glamazones in leather embellished with a layering of techniques.

NEW TAILORING

Works of art or couture mathematics? Costume National shows graphic cuts and sharp asymmetrics, balancing layers and proportions. Balenciaga confirms the important role that the sleeveless jackets will play coming seasons, martial arts reflect in Haider Ackermann’s wrap suits, where Narciso Rodriguez goes classy, Givenchy throws layers and Dior goes for powerful contours.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

 

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