Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Riccardo Tisci presented a wonderful collection yesterday where he mixed serenity and edge into something special. His references were the Sixties and the archives of the Givenchy-house for the shapes. He also took inspiration from nuns for the purity and lightness.

And it all came together: ecclesiastical through the colors  (baby blue, white and black),  the feeling of restraint (signalled by rivets holding waists and shoulders in place and worn around necks as chokers), and through the shapes – which played on covering up.

Tisci’s catholic backround turned up in the priest collars on his sixties shifts, in the voluminous bishop sleeves on a striking black jacke,  in the split skirts worn with crisp, dry blazers and pants, like church vestments.

Streetfashion Womenswear SS2013 Paris Day 5

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashionweek, season spring/summer 2013.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

The theatrical romance of the labels´founders was absent, yet the enormous hats of layered tulle reminded us we were indeed attending a Galliano show. Bill Gaytten sobered things up for the brand as he sent crispy clean oversize garments out on the runway. Endless fabrics were tossed, turned and folded (again the origami references) into elegant evening gowns in white, salmon, black and blue. Next to the mono colored pieces he introduced prints (and not the most subtle ones). City-inspired prints of hundreds of cars in standstill traffic slightly disturbed the ladylike feeling of the collection. Yet they did make the designs appear slightly more youthful and modern. Fascinated by the structured stiffness of Gayttens creations we open mouthedly watched the (mostly) A-line shaped creations come and go. How we would love to strut around in one of those blue maxi pants for one day.

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

An invitation for the Kenzo-show was one of the hottest tickets of Paris Fashion Week. Funny how a brand can turn into something cool in just a wink. All kudos go to minds now operating behind Kenzo,  Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim. They have brought a whole new spirit. The duo has optimism and makes fashion fun for everyone.

The setting of the show was a psychedelic projection of color and print,  in front of which the models walked: in khaki safari suits and trench coats and dresses; in  bustier tops and trousers with exotic prints; in off-the-shoulder dresses with a thick utility belt around the waist; in mint biker jackets; in parka jackets; and in those tiger jumpers. This time the tiger came disguised amongst a graphic crowd of lines. There were camouflage leopard prints in yellow and blue, and it came in orange and green later.

Leon and Lim  managed to wipe the slate clean and turn this floundering brand around to be a jungle beast.

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

It felt like a Best Of collection and..well.. it kind of was. In about twenty minutes Gaultier presented “An homage to all the pop stars of the eighties”. Artist who, the designer himself, has dressed at the top of their game. We had a blast looking at Grace Jones, Boy George, Madonna, Amanda Lear , Annie Lenox, David Bowie and Michael Jackson look-a-likes. Yet to say JPG exceeded himself with this XL collection would be a little exaggerative. It was a spectacle and an enumeration of what Gaultier does best. Striped suits, corsets, cone bras, overalls; all styled to the max, like usual at a JPG show. It sure looked like Jean Paul had a blast putting this highly entertaining show together. Let’s hope the designer keeps on dressing great artists like the ones represented today. We would love another Greatest Hits collection in about ten years from now.

 

Streetfashion Womenswear Ss2013 Paris Day 4

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashionweek, season spring/summer 2013.

Streetfashion Womenswear SS2013 Paris Day 3

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashionweek, season spring/summer 2013.

Chalayan Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

We got quite a feeling of optimism through Chalayan’s spring/summer show. He presented a very light collection of clean, boxy designs. Models sported boxy blouses, dresses and jackets worn with small pants or bare legs to keep them slightly feminine. If Chalayan accentuated the waist, some other part of his creation had to be structured, so playful skirts were mixed with puffy tops. Combined with bright green, yellow, orange and blue all the white felt even more fresh. Used on mesh fabrics and jersey inspired materials looks got a sportive touch as well.

Never one to leave out the headgear Chalayan came up with some extraordinary pieces again. His signature floppy hats were given a sun cap and turned into true summer proof statement pieces. A selection of colourful printed  designs (a print that featured piles of Chalayan’s own clothes) and two black and white evening dresses closed the show. Yes, there were some quirky twists, but the designer perfectly managed to bring them all together in a crispy selection of pretty wearable designs.

 

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Peter Copping seemed to have turned a new page at Nina Ricci. He added some edge to the normally so soft and feminine label, or, in his own words, brought a bit of London to Paris.

He opened the show with a full black look; a jacket and a skirt underneath which Manon Leloup wore a mesh top and a harness detail. A touch of bondage, yet still chic enough to fit the label’s heritage.

What followed were slightly undefined layered dress with ruffles and fringes in pink, black, navy and a few pastel shades. They had a certain twenties feeling to them, although the models’ waists were too accentuated for that.

Sweet skirt suits and polka dot dresses in shiny gray and nude were funked up by multiple chunky chain necklaces. A sheer polka dot top worn with a playful hairy skirt looked daring.

It seems Copping took the right amount of risk as he made sure he kept everyone’s attention throughout the show, without completely shocking the fashion crowd.

 

First View Paris Womenswear SS2013: the New Sexy

Our first spot on Paris hints at a classical and mature approach towards fashion. Powerful silhouettes in pure black and white. Well known modernist geometry peppered with a swift whiff of sex. Smooth sensual and pure looks that reveal subtle glimpses of skin. All executed with tailored precision.

Expanding on traditional classical beauty and clearly inspired by historical archives but sprayed with modern gloss. Hard edge geometrics and sharp shoulders are softened with curved décolletées, sculptured volants and roomy pleated pants.  Outfits suggest unashamed sex and sensual looseness but are staged with well-calculated sophistication and couture aspiration.

Balenciaga shows icons of sensuality and femininity in lingerie and swimsuit inspired tops matched with high waisted flat pleat pants. Balmain shows hard edge masculinity in broad shouldered power suits covering simple and sexy bandeaus. Carven is truly sculpting in curved sensual tailoring. Where Balenciaga was clearly intrigued by the Antique when shaping this revealing dress with meandering sculpted volants.

Who would ever have thought that the image of the ‘bare midriff’ could be raised up to classical standards?

Stylespot is a colleboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

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