Paul Smith Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Bearded shippers, rock stars, college boys and sportsmen all appeared from Paul Smith’s backdrops of waves. Though the designer opted for a nautical theme, the title was Portobello-on-Sea, much more could be found in this collection.

The sportive elements were in the grey sweaters with the neon details, the shiny jackets/sweaters with the busy prints on them and the body warmers. A touch of rock ‘n roll was added with high black boots, long hair, long coats and classic sunglasses. The college kid could look great in those woolen blue suit jackets and fully buttoned blouses.

A bright deep see print, which appeared on a few pants seemed inappropriate for any of those man types. Yet it did add up to the sea spirited feeling Smith tried to convey.

 

Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

After days of strict, streamlined and conservative menswear the boyish uniform of Raf Simons felt a bit refershing, although it’s kind of conservative too. To the press he said he’d felt like he wanted to change something with the idea of men’s clothes. He’d wanted to bring more energy, more excitement. Odd were the colored locks of hair hanging down the back of shirts, jackets and coats. Once again, Simons played with men’s dressing conventions with suit pants at the knee and styling shirts as outerwear over other shirts. The main statement was oversized tailoring: suit jackets and chunky overcoats.  Simons dared to use bold colors too. Chunky waffle-knit sweaters came in mustard yellow, lime green and cobalt blue. There was definitely a street feel in this collection.

Walter van Beirendonck Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

That was sa quite disturbing mask the models were wearing at the Walter van Beirendonck-show, especially when you realize the models underneath the white skintone mask were black…. But those confronting themes are familiar when it comes to the Belgian designer. He’s not afraid of some discussion. His show  started out with well-crafted, sartorial looks in bold colors and plaids, which gave way to baggy streetwear, including mohair sweaters.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear FW2012 Day 3

What are you wearing during these menswear fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Wee

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Today Humberto Leon and Carol Lim proved their the right guys for the Kenzo design job. Their debut menswear collection was young, refreshing, well tailored and still had all the Kenzo-aspects in it. A color palette ranging from orange to moss green was their interpretation of the brand’s lively colors. While some subtle medallion prints (on a pair of pants, a jackets, a sweater and a blouse) represented Kenzo’s signature vivid prints.

Especially for a winter collection Leon and Lim’s take on Kenzo felt fresh. Who needs black when you have the perfect burgundy? And why would you opt for white if you can produce the same item in a exquisite shade of camel.

At Kenzo too, the coats were the eye catchers of the show. Although we must say some of those vibrant sneakers kept screaming at us as well…

Streetfashion Paris Menswear FW2012 Day 2

What are you wearing during these menswear fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

Kris van Assche Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Fragile young boys sported the eastern inspired look at the Kris van Assche show. Their dungarees, belted jackets and wide legged pants giving them a slightly more noticeable figure. Every design was perfectly tailored and felt unique, new even.

Pinstripes, speckled tweeds, checks and a pop of blue were the only variation in the all white, grey and black color palette. Yet we couldn’t possibly say the collection bored us. On the contrary Kris showed that with the right craftsmanship and a unique point of view even a collection existing solely of black jackets can be extremely fascinating. His clientèle will look so chic in the strong outerwear presented.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

No darkness and monk-like dressing at Rick Owens for fall 2012. His collection looked quite sharp, also chic and masculine. The signature look was a slim, dropcrotch pant in black with a white shirt or turtleneck. Of course there was some leather too, like his signature black jacket, but that even had a sartorial cut.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

At least there is one designer who tries to mix humor and menswear to an elegant collection. Dries van Noten felt like doing something that would make people smile, and so he did. He mixed psychedelic prints with his signature menswear that had a military edge. The military coats, stovepipe trousers and sweaters came along well with the naive prints. The skinny jeans and shoes looked cool.

Also compliments to Dutch artists Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters who realized a mural as a backdrop during the show, featuring the same architectural and typographic motifs.

 

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

At Jean Paul Gaultier richly styled models walked the runway. They were dressed to the max in full on forties looks topped off by funky fedoras.

One of the most eyecatching things about the collection was a brick print, which we funny enough already saw at Moschino and which Marloes Blaas is planning on showing us during Amsterdam Fashion Week as well.

Some of the designs (strong coats) looked like an immediate hit, others (the colorful fur vests) not so much. There were of course some typical JPG items in the mix, like a few (maxi!) skirts, striped sweaters (in velvet red) and shiny trenches/parkas.

Presented on the runway it all appeared to be a little too much of everything. But when you look past the rich styling and just observe the unique designs on their own you’ll see a true artist has been working his skills..

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