First View Paris Womenswear FW2012: Pastel Beauty
March 3, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, Stijlspot, Stylespot, Trends, womenswear
As Suzy Menkes questions in the NY Times: ‘Is it inevitable in a time of economic depression that fashion takes a backward look at similar moments in past? So much has changed that it is a designer’s tough task to make references relevant.’
Historic Dior, the New Look, hit the runway. Faultless collections, as icons of couture craftsmanship in impeccable tailoring, express lightness in a tender palette of soft powder-pinks. The focus is on the waist and skirts are full or flared and over-the-knee, in chiffons, silks and layers of tulle. Less exquisite and full-blown as in the 40s, making place for a contemporary, stripped-down urban sense of luxury and soft modernity, yet still ultimately recognizable.
Roland Mouret shows smart sculpted peplum silhouettes with a lady like elegance, Nina Ricci’s designer Peter Copping did find the right twist to turn the historic into the contemporary. Barbara Bui entered a more free-flowing craft aspect in a skin shaded sensual silhouette, where Bill Gaytten stays closest to the Dior heritage without obviously taking a 21st century turn.
Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam
Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
March 3, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear
Alber Elbaz not only celebrated 10 years at Lanvin with a great collection and party, he also performed at the end of the show singing ‘Que Sera Sera’. It was his party, so he could do whatever he wanted. The collection seemed a Best of-collection, but then modernized and updated. It showed all the inventive and creative skills of this great designer: his use of colors, the cut of the silhouettes, the mix of fabrics, the shapes, the urban femininity .
The show opened with hourglass mini-dresses in bright colors and sweet, round shapes, then black leather followed and black dresses and coats. The ruffles balanced it out and made sure the clothes didn’t look to aggressive or harsh. After the show Alber Elbaz told reporters that this collection was ‘all about freedom’.
Sonia Rykiel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
March 3, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear
It is the second season April Chrichton is designing the collection for the house of Sonia Rykiel. This spring it’s about bold colors and style, but for next fall it’s less loud, more simple and pared down. Like the skirtsuits with a kick flare to the skirt, shrunken jackets, jumpers and little black skirts. Shades were mainly black, white and biscuit. For eveningwear the Rykiel-girl shows her flirty side, with floaty dresses, sometimes in sheer black or with puffy little sleeves.
Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
March 3, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Paris, womenswear
Yes there was plenty of Yamamoto’s signature black, but there was also quite a bit of color. Red and blue accents popped up throughout the whole show, on the clothes but also as a detail in the models’ hair. It made up for a vivid show, which felt refreshing for a Yamamoto winter collection.
The show was about covering up and revealing as warm winter coats and capes were matched with cut out, asymmetrical draped dresses. Besides a punky touch (seen through the hair, the boots and the use of color) the collection had a sporty vibe as well (visible through the jersey fabrics, the duo colored leggings and the fingerless tassled ?! gloves).
Whether heading to the gym or on your way to a nice dinner; these Yamamoto designs will definitely make you stand out. And if not, you can always tie and twist some colorful scarfs around your body for that extra showstopping effect.
Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
March 3, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Paris, womenswear
Margiela started with some amazing, yet basic coats and capes which the models had hanging on their shoulders. Some real classics in grey, camel and black everyone could use in their winter wardrobe. Even the brand’s leather sleeves/gloves of last year made a reappearance, yet slightly different.
What followed was a series of turtlenecks and enormous collars which came up to the models’ ears. Then a couple of printed asymmetrical dresses popped up, giving this collection it’s signature look.
And just days after Angelina Jolie’s slit dress and thus her sexy bare leg at the Oscars were all over the news Maison Martin Margiela showed the same kind of sexiness. Pleated skirts which were short left and maxi on the right revealed the models’ amazing toned legs, wow. Matched with shiny, straight blouses they created the ultimate cool chic look.
Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
March 2, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear
With all the rumors about Dior he must be under a lot of pressure, but boy did Bill Gaytten show an amazing collection. It might just be his last one, and if so, he’s definitely leaving with his head held high.
Gracefully dressed women walked his runway in soft modern dresses and skirts. Again materials were combined in one look. Like for instance a pink dress with a diagonal leather band on it. Or a woolen embroidered version with a metallic part on the models’ breast. And not to mention those gorgeous evening gowns which had transparent sleeves or fronts and lottts of tule.
Every single design was feminine to the max; accentuated waists, flowing (New Look) skirts and ultra soft shades (nude, rose, burgundy). Also the large necklaces gave the looks extra reason to stand out.
A total of 56 looks may have been a little too much. Yet there wasn’t one look that didn’t belong in this jaw dropping collection. Props for Gayten and fingers crossed he might get to stay at Dior.
First View Paris Womenswear FW2012: Sci Fi Today
March 2, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, Stijlspot, Stylespot, Trends, womenswear
The fantastic futurist, Nicolas Ghesquière, revived and reinforced his ever-innovative message. This did not confirm yet the Parisian position as stage for the pioneering and the extreme. Designers seem to stick to their personal profiles rather then wanting to push fashion forward. Balenciaga’s surreal source of inspiration, corporate life, brought him on track of power dressing reminiscent of 70s and 80s. Futurist dressing where challenging proportions team up with not less challenging materials. Bonded fabrics that build exaggerated silhouettes.
Where Milan went for beauty Paris went for power, staging super-heroines, priestesses of techno cult and battle girls.
Balenciaga showed satin sweatshirts with spacey slogans and sci-fi prints as well as flimsy featherweight dresses combining constructing textures creating star war princess looks. At Mugler the historical oeuvre was studied carefully. Super-heroine shoulders in contouring body gloves as well as peplum silhouettes. Gareth Pugh showed rather mutant force then Girl Power in funnel necks jackets with spiked shoulders,
We feel the longing for revolution, the need for groundbreaking novelty. But still the nearest road towards that seems to lead via the past.
Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam
Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
March 1, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear
Although the eruption of flames at the beginning of Rick Owens’ show suggested a sense of black magic, it turned out to be a much lighter and softer show. Dove-grey instead of pitch black, flowing dresses, layers and some great coats. Owens suggested a looser silhouette for dresses and tops that had more flow in their fit. Some of these looks were layered over drop-crotch shorts, which in Owens’ hands, were quite alluring and cool.
He also showed outerwear, including a few formfitting coats and cropped, draped leather jackets.
Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
March 1, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Paris, womenswear
‘Nostalgia for the present’ was the theme of the Nina Ricci collection. It was about young girls playing dress-up in their mother’s and grandmother’s clothes, as Peter Copping told the press. This translated through tops with too long sleeves, extra large skirts and some of the dresses which were one size too big.
It made the models look like dolls. Dolls dressed in chic, but scruffy designs. Like slipdresses patched together with tweed and lace. Or somewhat destroyed jackets with fringes all over.
Though most of the looks were very ladylike, we also got a bit of a sporty vibe. Especially one of the last outfits, a sheer houndtooth skirt and jacket had sporty chic written all over it.
In this collection too it was all about mixing different materials, patchwork really. Wool and fur, lace and tweed, leather and satin, for the ultimate luxury looks with a bit of an edge.
Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012
March 1, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Paris, womenswear
At Balenciaga we were high in the sky. Because the show took place on the 27th floor of the Paris skyscraper ‘Tour Cristal’ and since we fell in love with it’s beautiful fall collection. One shown by a complete Balenciaga Inc. company, including employees, interns and an IT department.
Ghesquière introduced new silhouettes and new proportions (coats with big rounded shoulders and padded sweaters with puffy sleeves).
Sheer dresses were presented in different shades with asymmetric metallic and animal printed accents. Knee high skirts were matched with thick stiff sweaters and short jackets. He even showed his sense of humor, by introducing parachute pants and sweatshirts with crazy slogans like “JOIN A WEIRD TRIP” and “OUT OF THE BLUE”. At the end those same parachute pants were elongated till the models’ waists and worn with V-neck sleeved tops and corset-like variations.
So many different looks and yet each one so strong and unique. Working at this Balenciaga office seems like a dream job to us. We can already picture ourselves behind our clean desks just daydreaming as a real life catwalk takes place in front of your eyes everyday.
