Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 3, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear

Junya Watanabe was in the mood for sartorial elegance in a mannish way, which resulted in a collection with strong tailoring and couturelike precision. Lots of  formfitting coat in a men’s check, cinched dresses in heavier fabrics, or a checked coat with a dress that combined a gray bodice in a heavy cloth with a voluminous  orange skirt in velvet.
Watanabe’s outerwear had trenchcoats with volume, as well as a trench-cape and a few blazer coats, which looked as though he stitched together a fitted jacket and a skirt in the same fabric.

Viktor & Rolf catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 3, 2012 by  
Filed under Events, Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear

At Viktor & Rolf a full moon set the mood for mysterious show. It was opened by an unlighted moving catwalk on which models posed in their structured looks. Seeing those silhouettes move across the backdrop you knew you were in for another V&R spectacle.

In line with the silky pajama for day wear trend the Dutch designers sent their first few girls on the runway in silk printed and draped ones. Extremely luxury pj’s those were with sparkly collars and fur cuffs. V&R even added some of their larger than life details, like enormous sleeves attached to the models shoulders like a sort of cape.

Everything that followed, the suits, the shorts and sheer tops, coats and evening dress, played with volume and the mixing of materials. The designers showed contrast by combining sheer delicate pieces with touches of raccoon and mink fur.

Shaved, structured fur (in stead of cute and fluffy) that is, which took the Dutch duo months to develop. It made up for the distinctive, statuesque V&R look, the theatrical touch they often add to their collections. Still, this show felt different. Looks seemed to be less about the art and spectacle and just a little bit more about wearability.

A smart move, if you ask us. We’ll probably see the Dutch brand pop up more often and other celebs than today’s front row guest Katy Perry will have a mysterious moment dressed in V&R.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 3, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Paris, womenswear

Again Haider Ackermann presented an intriguing and beautiful collection. Ackermann’s sent out an message of power-chic fueled by both dark and artful undercurrents. A lean, even severe silhouette dominated, sometimes cinched with a sharply geometric corset belt. Ackermann incorporated serious volume and a fascination with the lower torso. This resulted in tiered and sculpted peplums, hip adornments and leathers that pushed out from the waist to be cut away into dramatic front tails. Ackermann softened it up with hooded coats and long dresses. The  colors were magical, with oranges, reds, blues and purples against earthy neutrals.

First View Paris Womenswear FW2012: Pastel Beauty

As Suzy Menkes questions in the NY Times: ‘Is it inevitable in a time of economic depression that fashion takes a backward look at similar moments in past? So much has changed that it is a designer’s tough task to make references relevant.’

Historic Dior, the New Look, hit the runway. Faultless collections, as icons of couture craftsmanship in impeccable tailoring, express lightness in a tender palette of soft powder-pinks. The focus is on the waist and skirts are full or flared and over-the-knee, in chiffons, silks and layers of tulle. Less exquisite and full-blown as in the 40s, making place for a contemporary, stripped-down urban sense of luxury and soft modernity, yet still ultimately recognizable.

Roland Mouret shows smart sculpted peplum silhouettes with a lady like elegance, Nina Ricci’s designer Peter Copping did find the right twist to turn the historic into the contemporary. Barbara Bui entered a more free-flowing craft aspect in a skin shaded sensual silhouette, where Bill Gaytten stays closest to the Dior heritage without obviously taking a 21st century turn.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 3, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear

Alber Elbaz not only celebrated 10 years at Lanvin with a great collection and party, he also performed at the end of the show singing ‘Que Sera Sera’. It was his party, so he could do whatever he wanted.  The collection seemed a Best of-collection, but then modernized and updated. It showed all the inventive and creative skills of this great designer: his use of colors, the cut of the silhouettes, the mix of fabrics, the shapes, the urban femininity .

The show opened with hourglass mini-dresses in bright colors and sweet, round shapes, then black leather followed and black dresses and coats. The ruffles balanced it out and made sure the clothes didn’t look to aggressive or harsh. After the show Alber Elbaz told reporters that this collection was ‘all about freedom’.

Sonia Rykiel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 3, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear

It is the second season April Chrichton is designing the collection for the house of Sonia Rykiel. This spring it’s about bold colors and style, but for next fall it’s less loud, more simple and pared down.  Like the skirtsuits with a kick flare to the skirt, shrunken jackets, jumpers and little black skirts. Shades were mainly black, white and biscuit. For eveningwear the Rykiel-girl shows her flirty side, with floaty dresses, sometimes in sheer black or with puffy little sleeves.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2012 Day 3

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Miu Miu-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 3, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Paris, womenswear

Yes there was plenty of Yamamoto’s signature black, but there was also quite a bit of color. Red and blue accents popped up throughout the whole show, on the clothes but also as a detail in the models’ hair. It made up for a vivid show, which felt refreshing for a Yamamoto winter collection.

The show was about covering up and revealing as warm winter coats and capes were matched with cut out, asymmetrical draped dresses. Besides a punky touch (seen through the hair, the boots and the use of color) the collection had a sporty vibe as well (visible through the jersey fabrics, the duo colored leggings and the fingerless tassled ?! gloves).

Whether heading to the gym or on your way to a nice dinner; these Yamamoto designs will definitely make you stand out. And if not, you can always tie and twist some colorful scarfs around your body for that extra showstopping effect.

Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 3, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Paris, womenswear

Margiela started with some amazing, yet basic coats and capes which the models had hanging on their shoulders. Some real classics in grey, camel and black everyone could use in their winter wardrobe. Even the brand’s leather sleeves/gloves of last year made a reappearance, yet slightly different.

What followed was a series of turtlenecks and enormous collars which came up to the models’ ears. Then a couple of printed asymmetrical dresses popped up, giving this collection it’s signature look.

And just days after Angelina Jolie’s slit dress and thus her sexy bare leg at the Oscars were all over the news Maison Martin Margiela showed the same kind of sexiness. Pleated skirts which were short left  and maxi on the right revealed the models’ amazing toned legs, wow. Matched with shiny, straight blouses they created the ultimate cool chic look.

 

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 2, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear

With all the rumors about Dior he must be under a lot of pressure, but boy did Bill Gaytten show an amazing collection. It might just be his last one, and if so, he’s definitely leaving with his head held high.

Gracefully dressed women walked his runway in soft modern dresses and skirts. Again materials were combined in one look. Like for instance a pink dress with a diagonal leather band on it. Or a woolen embroidered version with a metallic part on the models’ breast. And not to mention those gorgeous evening gowns which had transparent sleeves or fronts and lottts of tule.

Every single design was feminine to the max; accentuated waists, flowing (New Look) skirts and ultra soft shades (nude, rose, burgundy). Also the large necklaces gave the looks extra reason to stand out.

A total of 56 looks may have been a little too much. Yet there wasn’t one look that didn’t belong in this jaw dropping collection. Props for Gayten and fingers crossed he might get to stay at Dior.

 

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