Dior Haute Couture Paris SS2013

For spring Raf Simons said he “didn’t want to do a heavy concept, hence the idea of the garden, flowers, spring and the evolution of that.” So he presented us with a tent full of green hedges and the freshest looking models. Sporting chic red lips and slightly wet locks the Dior ladies appeared in a series of designs in the most unexpected shades. Burgundy, deep green, yellow and back were mixed with shades of neon, nude and soft pink. Strapless dresses were fairytale like, cigarette pants refreshingly chic and a floor sweeping skirt and top were both modern and timeless. We still have to get used to the bright colored tights, but as we saw during last night’s ELLE STYLE AWARDS this trend is picked up pret-ty quickly.

Thom Browne Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

While blindfolded models hammering on a wooden construction formed the backdrop of Thom Browne’s fashion show, his walking models appeared from behind. The fact that they wore checked skirts and dress like designs could have been enough to keep us press interested. Yet Browne added an extra dimension to his looks, making them unique yet unwearable. His grey flannel suits, his cross printed vest, his checked pants and illusionist coat; they were all done in a boxy style. The effect of the square fits and the super stiff shoulders was even amplified by his square hats, rectangular sunglasses and geometric suitcases. Let’s hope Browne hat some real boxes hidden underneath his designs, so that when he removes those, he can actually sell some of these fall/winter creations.

Versace Haute Couture Paris SS2013

Perhaps Donatella’s neon pink and yellow, gold and black looks breathed MTV Awards more than Oscars or Grammy’s. The dresses might be a little too bright and short for a haute couture show. Yet nowadays anything can be a red carpet look and there’s always some attention seeking celebrity (or their stylists fort hat matter) enthusiastic enough to pull this off. No Angelina Jolie, Keira Knightley or Penelope Cruz perhaps, but we can totally see youngsters (and long term clients; smart thinking Donatella) Nicki Minaj, Selena Gomez of Kirstin Stewart sporting one of these upbeat sexy creations. They’ll stand out from the crowd and with the 24-karat detailing still have everyone gushing.

Paul Smith Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

Who says fall collections have to be all about brown, grey and black? Paul Smith proved even prints and bright colors fit perfectly for an autumn collection. He showed suits in shades of mustard, red, flamingo pink and turquoise. Pairing a red pair of pants with a mustard jacket and combining different shades of blue in one office look. He introduced multiple colored houndstooth sweaters, a single Mondrian inspired creation and psychedelic prints popped up on a shirt and a winter coat. Models looked both confident and comfortable in the perfectly cut menswear designs. Sir Paul Smith’s ever growing Asian fan base won’t be disappointed and neither are we.

Saint Laurent Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

Skinny jeans, checked shirts, leather jackets and long striped scarves; Saint Laurent’s man is a grungy kind of guy for 2013. Jeans had multiple rips and the layering appeared careless on purpose. Hedi Slimane focused on how accessible his designs can be. So accessible both men and women should be able to pull them off (he proved by sending androgynous – real musician – models down the runway). It felt good to see menswear can be more than endless series of checked suits. Yet Slimane’s free spirited, punk creations perhaps could have been a little more original.

Snow in Paris

Fashion and unexpected snowfall are not an easy combination.  Most buyers and editors who were visiting Paris for the menswear shows seemed quite surprised by the snowfall. But they recovered well and improvised with different layers which made for a nice fashion-picture! And last but not least: Paris looks beautiful with a white layer.

 

Streetfashion Menswear Paris FW2013 Day 5

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear, season fall/winter 2013.

 

 

Sjaak Hullekes Amsterdam Fashion Week Preview FW2013

We’ve seen the sensitive side of Sjaak Hullekes so many times, but for fall/winter 2013 it’s time for something different. The talented menswear designer will present a collection of edgy and tough work wear, simply because he felt like it. We spoke to Sjaak about his inspiration for upcoming winter and more…

Why is it important for you to present your designs during Amsterdam Fashion Week?
“I feel AFW is becoming a more realistic platform to present my work to press and buyers every year. After last season’s show I had five new selling points for Sjaak Hullekes. That is great immediate result. Since the show area has changed (around 1250 people can fit into the new location) the prices have gone up. It is thanks to the sponsors I can present my collection.”

What can you tell us about ‘the new Sjaak Hullekes’?
“The new Sjaak Hullekes is tougher, less colorful and more balanced. His style is a mix of sporty, casual and formal clothing. I opted for this new, slightly more edgy collection, because I personally had the need for it. I felt like I was missing that part of menswear.”

What did you use as your source of inspiration?
“I have been looking at the working class of the eighties. I thought of factories that closed, people together is small buses, some sort of group spirit. It made me play with work wear and it leaded to the collection being very dark, even though I always claimed I would never use black.”

This year you’ve launched your own perfume and underwear line. Are you planning on adding any other new line to the Sjaak Hullekes collection?
“I am not planning on showing new things like that during the show, yet I would love to add my own leather and knits. In this collection you will see knits, but they’re produced by a group of 20 Portuguese ladies. They are creating sweaters, scarfs and accessories for the show. The collection will have texture, it will have more body, but it will still be refined thanks to this kind of hand work. This upcoming season my man may look more tough, the sensitive Sjaak is still there.”

Sjaak Hullekes will present his new menswear collection for fall/winter 2013 on Friday 25 January on 03.00 P.M.

 

Lanvin Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver looked for contrast in their latest fall winter collections. Their guys wore ultra thin ties tucked in their pants as well as oversize woolen coats. Their turtlenecks in many shades, shiny shirts and footwear were just as strong statement pieces. A few quilted leather pieces were quite the opposite of the pair of sheer colored blouses towards the end of the collection. And an oversize T-shirt and a pair of slim pants formed an odd, yet good looking combination. Shades of red and blue were strangely mixed in with the typical winter color palette of blacks, whites and greys. The designer duo tried lots of new things. Some more powerful than others, but lots to think about nevertheless.

Hermes Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

For fall Hermes took several fashion classics and gave them an unexpected new twist. Like a navy trench coat that was double breasted and got an extra zipper. Or the pink sweater worn over a turtle neck, combined with an orange belt. Not to mention the red jersey pants with matching jumper, yet contrasting orange shoes laces. But despite these ‘odd’ accents, the Hermes man still is as properly dressed as ever come fall. He’ll look sharp in his navy colored suits and casual in his cashmere sweaters. His leather pants and coats will give his style that edgy touch. As perfect leather shoes, gloves and bags proof he is a man who cares about details. And the item that probably says the most about this man is his croc leather jacket; making him fashion forward, perhaps even trend setting.

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