Trend Report SS2013: Opposites Attract
June 26, 2013 by Jetty
Filed under womenswear
This season it’s all about material mixing. Of course we were already wearing shear tops with heavy skirts. Yet this time around single fashion pieces exist of a mix of fabrics. After seeing leather accents such as collars, cuffs and pockets for a few seasons it’s all about transparency this summer. Think cotton tops with sheer silky parts, satin skirts with transparent hemlines or dresses with see through mid riffs. Not cut-outs but body parts just subtly covered by a fine layer, adding some seductiveness to the look. While Viktor & Rolf created a clash with their metallic fabric, Paul Smith showed some contrast by using lace, Jason Wu opted for leather and Dolce & Gabbana blew everyone away with their use of cork. Other labels such as Blumarine, Céline, Gucci, Stella McCartney, Chloé and Chanel showed multiple variations of sheerness, sexy, tough and sportive. Looking seductive was never this chic.
Gerrit Rietveld Graduation Show 2013
June 25, 2013 by Jetty
Filed under womenswear
Friday night the 14th of June we headed to Paradiso, Amsterdam. Not to see (or hear) an upcoming band, but to witness the graduation spectacle of six graduation students from the Gerrit Rietveld Academy. Directed by head of fashion Niels Klavers Charlotte Beeck, Tümay Faydaci, Alla Kuzmyk, Duran Lantink, Verena Michel and Niki Milioni presented their final collections as students.
In a special catwalk construction designs by two of the academy’s architectural design students models walked a specific route in order to let both the photographers and the audience get a good glimpse of every angle of the creations.
Where Beeck presented a small collection of constructed menswear designs, Duran Latink’s dark and daring presentation seemed to have no ending. And where Kuzmyk held things sober, Faydaci held a small Paradiso party.
One thing the collections did have in common was their uniqueness. Besides the six fashion innovators showed some off impressive techniques and styles. We’re curious to see who we will see during Amsterdam Fashion Week. Which student will start his/her own label. Or perhaps some of these young talents will start working for a big international brand… Time will tell.
See a gallery with full catwalk looks below.
Below you can find some backstage impressions.
HKU Graduation Show 2013
June 25, 2013 by Jetty
Filed under womenswear
In Utrecht too fashion design students were able to finally reveal their graduation collections to family, friends and press. Earlier this month twenty-one students from the Hogeschool voor de Kunsten in Utrecht presented their final collection in the Zijdebalen Theater in Utrecht.
A mix of well constructed immediately sell-able pieces and experimental designs. Whether portraying a futuristic, oversized, architectural, mysterious, cheerful or refreshingly new image; all students proved to have their very own handwriting. A unique point of view and a determined way of working, both so utterly important in fashion.
Below two galleries; one with all the looks from every graduation show, the other with some black & white backstage shots.
Students Fashion Design: Aniel Algoe, Anbasja Blanken, Clemence de Beer, Bettie Boersma, Angela Bouwer, Daniek van Doorn, Ynchomar Dossett, Marieke van Geffen, Wenda Harmsen, Carmen Hendriks, Charlotte Kiekebos, Marina Martirosova, Roxanne Mion, Wagma Momand, Eva Reuvers, Jess Tak, Iris Terol, Naomi Timan, Esmay Hijmans, Sanne van der Wal, Petra Schuddeboom.
DSquared catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
‘James Dean crashed with his plane on a tropical island and adapts’, that was in short the story that inspired the Caten-twins to design their ss14 DSquared-collection. The show opened with a model taking a shower under a tropical waterfall wearing nothing than a pair of briefs from the duo’s new underwear and swimwear-line. The James Dean the duo imagined chopped off his cotton pants at mid-calf, but kept his biker jacket. Also in hun survival-wardrobe: Bermuda shorts with tropical motifs and rockabilly T-shirts, slouchy, laser-cut shorts and jackets made from a lightweight, waterproof fabric.
The Fifties flavor was felt throughout — on a curtain print, for example, which evolved into cropped pants and jackets, as well as in eveningwear.
Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
Silvia Venturini Fendi designed her ss14 menswear-collection with ‘Extreme Heat’ in mind. The result was a streamlined collection with crisp and slim suits and oversized outerwear. Some pockets and seams were trimmed with strips representing tape, which gave it a raw edge. Colors were deep and saturated, rust, ochre and indigo. Sometimes a bit faded, like bleached by the sun.
Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
The Gucci ss2014 collection was about activewear, blending in 18th-century floral prints to make the technical side of sport less clean. This was adventure wear for the sophisticated sportsman who carries his lunch in an oversized leather backpack; matches his safety-yellow storm coat to his Bermuda shorts; and slides his sockless feet into leather sneakers. The designer employed all kinds of high-tech fabrics and treatments.
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Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
What looked like a setting of an exotic holiday changed with the threatening sound of a military helicopter at the start of the show. Miuccia Prada wanted to create a dark and menacing feeling with het ss2014-show she told Womens Wear Daily backstage. Her story, that a conflict-torn globe makes finding a carefree place almost impossible, made for a daring collection and a show as captivating as a film noir set in pre-war Honolulu.
The collection: Hawaiian shirts, broken suits, satin-like blousons, and leisure shoes cloaked in rubber. The models looked as if they dressed themsleves in panic and just grabbed some clothes they could find. The colors were dark for a spring collection, as is noticed in more Milanese collections. Prada spiced up her palette with bold and lively prints of jungle foliage and pinup girls, even putting them onto leather briefcases and weekender.
The silhouette was very relaxed in double-breasted or single-breasted jackets. They looked great over silky printed shirts and full-legged trousers.
Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
Angela Missoni presented a fresh, comfortable ss14 collection and introduced a new loom knit made with a rubber coated yarn in indigo, sand and sage green, which she used to create overcoats and short parkas.
Cardigans — some loosely knit, others light — had an airy feel and were done in a palette inspired by West African fabrics. The fabrics were also used as inspiration for classic men’s suits, featuring plaid patchwork patterns on cool wool, as well as a series of pleated linen pants and cargo shorts.
Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
Multiple shades of blue- from morning sky pale to Yves Klein intense – dominated the spring collection of Calvin Klein. It was graphic, athletic and slyly streetwise. There were color-blocked bombers and bonded wool trousers, or workers in stiff shirt jackets with silver snap fasteners looked futuristic. Interesting were the series of photo-printed T-shirts and sweatshirts depicting salt flats and seascapes at mid-day, sunset and under the stars.
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Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014
Sport inspiration is everywhere in Milan this season, even at a classic house like Salvatore Ferragamo.
Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti used mustard, burnt orange, light blue, tomato and olive for his ummer suits worn with white shorts, or trousers and jackets in a texture cotton. He took the numbers 1, 2 and 4, inflated them, and placed them on stiff cotton sleeveless shirts and tunic tops, tanks, and knits.
There was a quilting motif too, for white leather jackets, and as a pattern on short plastic coats or cotton shirts. For outerwear, Giornetti played with volume.
